Since early November, I’ve fully moved my work to the exterior of the boat. My goal is to complete all exterior construction projects in preparation for paint some time later this year. I’ve made good progress on the following projects:

• Anchoring System
• Chain Lockers
• Cockpit
• Deck Hatches
• Deck Lockers
• Hull to Deck Joint
• Toe Rail

Once the above projects are fully complete, I will then move to the following projects:

• Companionway
• Jacklines, Lifelines & Stanchions
• Portlights
• Pulpit & Pushpit
• Seahood

Progress on the project is slow, but fairly steady.  My day job takes a lot of hours during the week, but I try to make up hours on projects in the evenings, weekends and basically any moment of time I can spare.

Regarding the website I also have been working to upload a lot of research data to the site.  So, if you browse the projects on the projects page, you’ll find a lot of new information.

Thanks for reading along – I really appreciate the feedback you all share.

+ Will I paint my mast (spar) and boom?
-> As of 2/6/12 I am fairly certain I will paint both my mast and boom. I’m not sure on the colors at this time, but I believe this to be the best way to make my mast and boom protected from corrosion.

Research

• It is becoming common practice now to coat spars with two-part polyurethanes. The basic procedure for painting aluminum spars is to remove all fittings and sand with a medium-grit emery cloth to remove oxidation and to form a light anchor pattern to help the paint adhere. Wipe down the spar with a zinc-chromate, self-etching vinyl butryal wash, and then cover with two coats of paint. Allow the first coat to dry overnight, and then sand with 320 grit dry or wet paper before applying the second coat. ( Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 308 )

February 6, 2012

I am inching towards painting a large group of lockers.  Currently, about 10 lockers are ready for paint.  The idea is to paint all currently finished lockers in one big batch, then do another round once the main interior construction is complete.  I’ll be sure to update this post with more information once the time for paint arrives.

Questions

+ What do I need to know about applying Bilgekote by Interlux?
-> On 6/21 I called Interlux for some information about applying Bilgekote as the back of the can suggested if you were going to apply over epoxy that one should call their technical reps. Here are my questions and notes from the call:

Question:  What do I need to know about applying Bilgekote over epoxy?
Answer:  Wash, water soap & stiff brush, then go ahead with 2-part primer (epoxy prime coat Y404), then apply bilgekote over the top of that.  (Note:  I’m not convinced soap is needed, as the main goal is to remove any amine blush from the surface and soap isn’t required to do this)

Question:  Do I need to use thinner for Bilgekote? What is the ratio?
Answer:  Not necessarily, out of the can you should be apply it. If it’s hot in the area or a little thick in the can, you have the option to. Kind of a feel thing at that point. I will, however, need to use 2333N Thinner for the primer.

Question:  Do most people paint the interior of their lockers with Bilgekote or another product?
Answer:  Not unheard of, no problem doing it just depends what I’m doing. I can definitely paint it over wood.

Research

Icebox

• Two-part polyurethane provides the toughest finish, but any marine or automotive paint will work. ( http://westsystem.com/ss/building-an-efficient-icebox-2/ )
• I applied a coat of Brightside primer. When the primer dried, I applied three coats of Brightside white to all icebox surfaces. ( http://www.triton381.com/projects/restoration/galleyconstruction2.htm )

+ What fuel filters to use? What micron thickness? Installation location?
-> Up until this time (4/2), I had thought that I would use a 10 micron followed by a 2 micron then the fuel filter on the engine. However, Matt Hickey was telling me how it’s good to be able to 2 filters so you can service one fuel filter while the engine is still running. He seemed to think that 2 filters wasn’t so necessary and I seem to be reading this in other locations as well. I will have to give some more thought to my exact fuel filter arrangement.

-> On 4/3 I spoke to Eric about this and he said that my idea to have a 10 micron and a 2 micron after that w/ a vacuum gauge after the 2 micron would be good, though he might allow some way to bypass one filter to allow servicing a pump while the engine was going. I gave it some more thought today and think that in most all occasions a landlubber like me can think of, just turning off the engine to repair the filter would be more than enough. Obviously, in an emergency situation a filter gets clogged and you need the engine is when this would be a down side. However, I feel like there are a lot of other things I could do to get myself out of this…such as raise sails, work quickly to change filters (though maybe this takes some time). Basically, I think this is one of those things where I’ll just do it the simple way (one straight line, no valves, 2 filters & a vacuum gauge) and then if I want to add a different set-up later, that’s definitely doable.

-> I saw a picture of a guy who does fuel-polishing and all these other niceties (so you know he’s done the research) and he has an initial 10 Micron (500 FG Filter) and then a 2 Micron (500 FG Filter). The flow comes first through the 10 micron, then through the 2 micron and finally to the engine’s fuel filter. His set-up also showed a T valve from the fuel supply line that could split off to a secondary fuel filter. While that would be nice, I suppose, if you were going to need to service the engine while it was running (not sure why else…), but I don’t think I have the room for that step. Here’s the image he posted:

-> On 10/11, I came back to this question after trying to understand which filter set-up would be best. I think previously, I had thought that it was a good idea to have a 10 micron, then 2 micron, then engine fuel filter installed. What I now realize is that while this would be ideal, it’s not necessarily the norm. From the Plastic Classic Forum, there’s a great response from Tim which reads:

A 2 micron element would be too fine for a primary filter. You will use these cartridges more rapidly, since they are catching everything–coarse and fine–in your fuel supply. These cartridges are not inexpensive, and while good filtration is worth any price, it makes more sense to arrange your system so that you catch first the coarser particles, and then use a second filter to do the final filtration of anything that remains….I think an ideal fuel setup would be to have fuel first enter a “day tank” through a 25 micron (coarse) filter. From there, the fuel, already partly strained, would pass through a 10 micron (medium) primary filter, and then onto the engine-mounted 2 micron (fine) secondary filter. Obviously this is more complex and not practical for a small boat, but I think this would be an excellent way to handle fuel if space, inclination, and budget allowed.  ( source )

Another poster confirmed their set-up of having a 10, then a 2 micron, engine mounted filter wrote:
I have a racor as my ‘primary’ (initial filter) with a 2 micron filter, my secondary, mounted on engine is also a 2 micron. This is what a Volvo mechanic had recommended to me last year when I installed the Racor”  ( source )

One person (whose image I’ve previously mentioned above ), actually suggested adding a secondary 2 micron filter. He wrote:

We run a 10 micron filter as our primary, a 2 micron as the secondary, and the engine-mounted Fram CP1911L(?), which I believe is a 30 micron, as our tertiary filter. Our thinking was to progressively filter the fuel and provide a quick, efficient way to inspect and replace filters before we had problems. After years of using the system, it is only the 10 micron primary that really needs changing. I have changed the 2 micron as cheap insurance, but it has not been dirty (at least visibly). The engine-mounted filter isn’t doing much work, and that was the idea since changing it is more complicated than changing the Racor 500FGs and involves bleeding the engine.

So, it seems there are certainly some very top notch installations of fuel filters, plus more standard set-ups. Since I really want to go top notch for everything (especially engine filtration), here’s what I plan to use: 500MA w/ 10 micron Filter >> Spin on Fuel Filter Vacuum Gauge >> 500 MA w/ 2 Micron Filter (both filters w/ heat reflectors). With this set-up, I have 2 filters prior to the engine filter, meaning the engine filter isn’t really doing any filtration at all. I have the vacuum gauge placed just after the main 10 micron filter (which is the filter which will require more changing) and the 2 micron filter can be changed at some kind of timed increments. There’s one issue to consider – the fact that I won’t have any way to quickly divert to a separate filter if one filter has issues. I’ve given this some thought and have considered that I will find a solution to this issue in a pinch (as mentioned above – raise the sails). Since I do have 2 filters, I could also bypass one filter by adding a longer hose in the system, though this might be tough in a pinch.

+ How/where do I install the differential/vacuum gauges?
-> Gauges show when there is a fuel supply problem. They show any problems with the fuel supply and whether your filters are plugged or not. Filters should be changed at about 75% of maximum vaccum/pressure on the gauge when tested at wide open throttle (WOT). The question is, where/how do I install them…I think you can install them in the engine room, somewhere in the fuel line, but I also think you can install them outside of the engine room so you can get an idea for the pressure quickly and easily. I like this idea, though I think that might require a remote sensor…or a long sender wire?

-> I did some more research on this (2/14) and found a good forum post that discussed all things fuel system related. Here’s some information regarding vacuum gauges ( source ):

• The standard gauge you will find is 0 to 30″. My boat runs at 0 with new filters. I usually change them when they get to 7 or 8 inches. I discovered that it was reading 15″ once but the engine was still going strong. If you could find a 0 to 20″ it might be a little better but these would be hard to find and I doubt you would see much difference. Racor has their vacuum gauge color-coded Red for Normal 0-10″, Caution 7-10″ and Danger 10-15″.
• install a vacuum gauge [between primary filter and lift pump] so you can monitor your filter’s progressive restriction, avoid unnecessary changes, and most importantly avoid untimely engine shut downs due to a clogged filter. …

I also read a Practical Sailor article (finickyfilter.pdf) and they wrote “a vacuum gauge in the fuel line. This gauge can tell you when your filters are dirty by showing how hard your lift pump is working to force the diesel fuel through the filter system. As the filter gets clogged, the pump has to work harder, increasing the vacuum in the line, which is shown on the gauge. Racor makes a gauge that is calibrated to the breaking strength of the paper element in the filter.

Here’s some further information ( source ):

By installing a vacuum gauge in your fuel system (at the outlet side of the Racor filter) visual monitoring of element condition is possible at a glance. At the first indication of decreased performance, note the dial reading or apply the ‘red line’ decal provided with most kits. This will assist in knowing when to change the filter at the next interval.

So at this point, I’ve reviewed a number of installations and notice that most of them have the pressure gauge installed between the two pumps. In fact, Calder wrote that “A vacuum gauge mounted between the primary filters and the lift pump is an excellent troubleshooting investment. A rising vacuum indicates that the filers are starting to plug” (Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, p. 223). So at least I have some confirmation to it’s placement, however I still have a couple considerations:

• For my particular set-up, should I install two gauges installed (one after the primary filter and one after the secondary).
• Should I mount the gauge in a different location other than near the filters? I’ve seen some suggestions to mount this visible from the cockpit, however I’m not sure how important this is.

-> I wrote Ben Thomas from Beta Marine about this he basically suggested just one fuel filter just after the primary fuel filter w/ a short as hose as possible. He wrote:

One gauge will do the job, install it just upstream from the fuel inlet on the engine. You want to monitor the primary filter more than the secondary filter on the engine lock. Too many fittings/connections on fuel line means more potential trouble spots. The longer the hose to the vacuum gauge the more air you need to bleed out of it be sure you can fill that hose with fuel then attach gauge, think of it as holding your thumb on straw then pulling the straw out of liquid (a vacuum). Save your money on the second gauge and use it for other budget items.

+  Can I place plastic fuel filters in the engine room?
-> I hadn’t really thought of it before 2/14, but this website says “filter with a plastic bowl and no heat shield is illegally fitted in the engine compartments”. Does this mean I need a heat shield or since this is the first time I’ve heard about it I shouldn’t worry?

So I read a little more, and from one forum. A user said “the surveyor says we need to move the Racor out of the engine compartment according to new USCG rules (or maybe just recommendations?).” to which another mentioned “You can install the Racors in the engine compartment as long as they are the metal bowl. I am in the process of installing a dual filer setup.”. Later, someone also mentioned “I have seen comments that the Racor 500FG is not approved for engine compartments but the 500MA is – with the only difference being a metal “heat shield” on the bottom – seems like this would make little difference if there is an “engine room” fire. I understand that there is a retrofit kit to add a heat shield to the 500fg if needed.”

The answer to this is basically that I should get the filters with the metal bowl (Racor 500MA) so they are more fit for the engine room temperatures. I don’t think my engine room will be that hot, but it’s still probably a good idea (especially since the filters will be installed high in the engine compartment).

+ Do I need a particle/water separator? How/where do I install a water separator?
-> Yes, I need a particle/water separator. At this time (2/14), I haven’t done much research on water separators. Here’s some quick information I found ( source ):

• Water separators … should be mounted upstream of the fuel pump because they’re not as efficient at removing water from an emulsion …(so order is tank, separator, pump, engine)
• A cruising sailboat should have a water separator that is bigger than “recommended”, because worse than usual fuel will be encountered

I did some further researh and realized that the Racor filters I plan to use filter out water. So the answer is yes I will have a water separator and it will be built directly into the filters I plan to buy. In fact, I believe a water-level sensor is visible halfway up the clear bowl of the Racor filter.

-> I also wanted to note that the Racor filters I’m looking at buying do have a water sensor indicator allowed to be added, but at this time (2/14) I don’t think I will add one.

+ Where do I need to place the raw water strainer?
-> The strainer should be placed just above the the waterline and have a see through thing…

-> This is still something I’m trying to understand (1/28)

-> I was doing some reading online, and found that some people place them above the waterline, some below, or some right at. If it’s below the waterline, a nice bronze strainer should definitely be used. One boat had a plastic vetus installed high above the waterline in the lazarette. You could clean it easily while sailing. If you want to clean a strainer and it is below the waterline, you need to shut off the raw-water intake. Regardless, the engine has to be shut off to clean it. So…I think it depends on the space in the engine room really.

From looking at that space now, the engine will take up a fair amount of the below waterline space, and so really, the only place that is available is just above the waterline at minimum and maybe maximum of 5″ above water-line.

+ What size are the hoses for raw-water?
-> The inlet sea cock should be 1” BSP to which a 7/8”/ 22 mm hose connector can be fitted. The sea waterpump is 22 mm OD to suit the 22 mm ID hose.

+  Will I use fuel polishing?
->  As of 12/2011, I will not install a fuel polishing system.  Instead, I will be sure to filter my fuel properly through the fueling process (fill through use) and be very finicky about the quality of the fuel.   If at a later date I decide it’s necessary, then I can consider adding it (though that may be very difficult

+ Will I use deck-fill fuel filter?
-> Yes, however they slow fueling, and are bulky and smelly to store. After filling, remove the screens and wipe leftover fuel out of screens and inside of cylinder. When fueling, use a fuel filter such as Mr. Funnel (recommended; cheap; get Heavy Duty Inspection Filter model) or “Baja filter” (expensive). $29 West Marine WM-F8C rated better than Baja Filter ($130) by Practical Sailor ( source ). Here’s a full write-up on these types of filters: http://www.practical-sailor.com/sample/Fuelfilter.html

Research

Fuel Filters

• North Carolina Ferry System has … engines are fitted with Racor diesel filters with water separators and the normal fuel filters that are supplied by the engine manufacturer ­ just like most recreational trawlers. Water separators are tended everyday.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• important that fuel filters be installed in the line in an accessible location, along with water/particle separators.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 241)
• So you can monitor the filter’s efficiency, it’s a good idea to rig a pressure differential gauge or a vacuum gauge between the fuel filter and the engine.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 241)
• Fuel filters should be so laid out that they are also readily available and accessible  (From a Bare Hull, p. 154)
• Once your fuel lines are hooked up, fill your tank with a couple of gallons of fuel (just in case they leak diesel). Bleed the system starting from the top most filter and working your way down to the injectors. Th operation is simple. Loosen the bleeding screw until fuel starts flowing instead of air, then tighten it and go on to the next one. But be sure you tighten one before you ascend to the other, or you’ll be wasting time, for the bottom one will be letting air in.  (From a Bare Hull, p. 321)
• …diesel engine’s fuel system[s] are machined to incredibly precise and minuscule clearances that simply to not tolerate contaminants…prevention – keeping contaminants out of the fuel – is better than a cure – removing contaminants from the fuel.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 206)
• A variety of screened funnels on the market (Baja funnels are the best known) can be used to take out the worst sediments when refueling, but it often difficult to throttle down the flow from the fuel pump to the rate at which the fuel moves through the funnel  (Cruising Handbook, p. 208)
• …before fuel ever reaches the engine, it should pass through a remotely mounted primary filter. The primary filter prevents the most particle contaminants from ever reaching the secondary filter, and perhaps most important, it removes moisture from the fuel. Not only will water in the fuel deprive your expensive injection pump of essential lubrication, but if a drop let of water reaches the tip of an injected, the superheated air of cylindar will instantly convert it to steam, blowing the tip off like a tiny boiler explosion. The tip plays ping-ping inside the cylinder. On boy.  (This Old Boat, p. 191)
• …prefilter the fuel going into your tank….for about $30 you can buy a fuel funnel with a screen that will pass diesel but not water…sailors taking on modest amounts of fuel should filter every gallon before it goes into the tank…because it is the stuff in the tank that clogs fuel filters and stops engines.  (This Old Boat, p. 192)

Fuel Polishing – Need For

• Very simple matter to measure the quantity of fuel returned to the tank. Just break into the return line to the tank and catch a known quantity of fuel in a known time and compute the flow rate. You can do this at the dock with the engine in neutral. Place a bucket under the return line and have a large zip-lock ready to catch the measured fuel. Have the engine started and increased the RPM to cruising speed. Then catch fuel in the zip-lock for a timed interval. The longer the timing interval the more accurate the results will be.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• It is generally agreed that water in the fuel tank causes all sorts of hell. The experts tell us that algae is born, lives, multiplies, and dies in the surface between the water and diesel fuel. These critters and their residue are a major source of trouble. The moral is: no water, no algae. Most of the water gets into our tanks by water condensing on the inside surface of the fuel tank and less often on the surface of the diesel fuel itself. This occurs every time the temperature of a surface is below the dew point temperature of the air to which it is exposed. Without getting too technical, more moist air will have a higher dew point temperature than less moist air and be more likely to cause condensation. It is also helpful to note that the condensation always occurs on the warm side of the surface  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• The most common means to prevent condensation in fuel tanks is to keep the tanks full. If they are full, there is no air in them so no condensation can occur. It is especially important to keep the tanks full when the boat is idle for a period of time.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• Desiccant filters in the vent lines have tremendous possibilities. If they can be fitted properly, they will keep most of the moisture in the air from entering the fuel tank, which will lower the dew point of the air to very low levels.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• It is one thing to get such dirt into a 20-gallon fuel tank and quite another to get it into a 300 or 400-gallon fuel tank on a trawler. The complete fuel turnover rate in the 20-gallon tank guarantees that the entire contents of the tank will be kept stirred up and the crud will quickly end up in our fuel filter. In the 400-gallon, on the other hand, the dirt will just settle to the bottom of the tank like the silt in the delta of a river. It will build there over time so that it can cause its worst evil at our most critical moment.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• Then there’s that black stuff that begins by discoloring the fuel filter, then discolors the fuel, then makes the fuel black and puts jelly-like stuff on the fuel filter, and then just shuts down the whole fuel system…I suspect it is the result of the solids from the original crude oil settling out and returning to their natural state. No matter what the cause, it is an ever-present, ever-continuing condition that adds to that awful mix at the bottom of our tanks. Let diesel fuel stand long enough and it will turn black.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• The common system with one secondary and one primary fuel filter tries to keep the fuel that enters the injection pump just like new and the only effect on the remaining fuel is the returned clean fuel. Once we understand that most of our engines return very little fuel to the tank it becomes obvious that this system has little or no effect on the fuel in our tank. The fuel in the tank keeps getting less and less just like new, and filter replacement intervals decrease.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• diesel fungus that was treated with a biocide. One of the most common is C. Resinae. The biocides tend to kill off the fungi or bacteria and then leave that residue behind which can plug a filter…the residue that gets on tank walls, and hides behind baffles, needs to be scrubbed clean or be given a chemical bath. I would strongly advise against the use of chains in tanks as even a small piece of dissimilar metal in the bottom of an aluminum tank can wreak havoc galvanically.  (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• There is, native to this planet, a life-form that thrives in diesel fuel. It’s commonly found in most tanks that aren’t really, really new. Ideally a biocide for treating diesel in a tank would kill and DISSOLVE the little critters. To my knowledge, none of them do…, so you just swap one problem for another. You have dead stuff that you must filter out, instead of live stuff that you must filter out.   (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• Upon inspection, when opening the top of the Racor filter, we saw there was not enough fuel in there… obviously, something went wrong along the fuel lines. Clogged, or crud from the tank, etc. A couple of days later, I cleaned up Racor as well as I could, replaced the filter which was absolutely full of junk, filled it up with new fuel. I also replaced the secondary fuel filter, cleaned the electric fuel pump. Then bled the system. My engine started again fine. However, since I have owned the boat-12 yrs. now, I have never cleaned that fuel tank… neither the PO. So I can only imagine what can be in there. I did not want to start my engine again without trying to do something about the fuel in that tank and trying to somehow clean it, if possible…Most of the water present in fuels will drop out as it is heavier than the fuel and will sink to the bottom if given time.  (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• Water gets into diesel fuel storage and vehicle tanks in several ways – by condensation of humid air, during transportation from refineries to service stations, by leakage through faulty fill pipes or vents and by careless handling. Water can cause injector nozzle and pump corrosion, microorganism growth and fuel filter plugging with materials resulting from the corrosion or microbial growth. Both vehicle and storage tanks should be checked frequently for water and drained or pumped out as necessary. In extreme cases, biocides may be required to control microorganism growth. In cold northern winters, ice formation in fuels containing water creates severe fuel line and filter plugging problems. Regularly removing the water is the most effective means of preventing this problem; however, small quantities of alcohol may be used on an emergency basis to prevent fuel line and filter freeze-ups. Cleanliness refers to the absence of water and particulate contamination. This characteristic is important because dirt and water can plug fuel filters in your engine and cause severe damage to your fuel injection system because of the close tolerances within fuel pumps and injectors. All diesel engine manufacturers equip their engines with fuel filters to protect the fuel delivery system. You should replace these filters according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Some manufacturers also provide filters with drain valves and recommend periodic draining of any water that may accumulate from condensation and careless handling in storage or vehicle tanks.  (http://www.cleanfuelguys.com/heat.html)
• Water in tanks can freeze 20F – 30F above the temperature at which fuel-related problems begin (cloud point). Ice crystals can build up on filters, restricting flow and compromising performance. They can also restrict fuel flow in tank pumping lines…In warmer weather, the presence of water in tanks may encourage the growth of fungi or bacteria which live in the tank water bottoms and feed on the fuel. Under the power of a microscope, these bugs look like deep-sea creatures. To the naked eye, these bugs show up as slimy mats of substance that can be any color from green to black. Under ideal conditions, these bacteria can double in number in as little as four hours. When left unchecked, they can be drawn out through suction lines and plug filters. In addition, the by-products of their fuel consumption are very acidic and can cause pitting and decay in tank bottoms. Many tanks go unchecked for years, accumulating water from any number of sources.  (http://www.cleanfuelguys.com/heat.html)
• I think its a good idea to be able to have easy access to available fuel i.e.: you can easily pump it out to pre fill a filter or if someone is in need of fuel. Everyone I have talked to who have had to polish their fuel have had older boats (tanks) several owners, several levels of maintenance skills and a lot of crappy fuel from somewhere. So there is a lot of build up in those olds tanks. rough conditions stir it up and your filter is shot.I would carry a screen (Baja) to filter the fuel going into the tank if in doubt. And use the simplest way you can think of to be able to polish the fuel via an independent internal system while possibly still running the engine from the same tank.You will probably have a brand new or very cleaned out fuel tank to start with so you are way ahead already. I would check out the fuel treatment stuff if fuel sits for very long. (Ben Thomas, Beta Dealer)

Fuel Polishing – Methods

• The objective is to return and/or keep the fuel just like new.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• The basic concept of the depth type filter is that the fuel passes through a lot of filter media. For example, the fuel travels from one end of a roll of paper towels to the other as it passes through a GCF F-1 fuel filter ­ thus the depth. It is that eleven plus-inches of contact with the filter media that makes this filter so efficient. It is its huge volume, when compared to the volume of a Racor-500 or 900 that gives it such an impressive capacity.Depth type filters are not required for the diesel polishing system, but they will increase the efficiency of the system and reduce the maintenance.  (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
• I can use the fuel polishing pump to prime the system in a matter of seconds after filter changes, and I don’t have to worry about introducing air into the system….The Walbro pump has the capacity to turn over a tank of fuel in less than an hour….Here’s our filtration/polishing system.Two Racor 500 FG’s – 10 microns to 2 microns…Old R24s – lower right – is now part of a secondary filtration circuit to allow changing 500 FG filters while underway. The switch at left controls the Walbro fuel pump for polishing….only thing I’d like to add is a vacuum gauge to take the guesswork out of filter changes. My philosophy has always been “better safe than sorry,” but I’m not eager to change out perfectly good filters    (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• A dedicated polishing system with its own pickup way down in that sump to me, would be ideal…Inserting a dedicated pickup into that sump, connected to a high volume pump should clean the area where our hapless C. Resinae tends to collect, and in the long run, worth the trouble to install… LATER…If you have access and can install a fitting and pickup tube over the sump, I agree that that’s the way to go.    (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• How I dealt with the issue on my own vessel: #1 New tank #2 Permanently installed fuel polishing system from day one with its own supply & return tappings #3 Polishing system pick up 1/8″ from the absolute low spot in the tank #4 Polishing system runs when ever the engine runs and turns the tank over at a rate of 72 GPH #5 Polishing return is fed into a separate compartment and returned below the level of fuel to avoid foaming. #6 Racor 900 filter was used to accommodate capacity of 72GPH pump and to have more filter media. I spent only $96.00 more for this permanently installed always polishing system than the PO spend on a one time fuel polishing. The whole system cost me under $400.00….P.S. Fuel is still treated with a biocide, Startron and a cetane booster.    (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• strongly advised me to be very careful with any dissimilar metals finding their way into the tank. They also strongly advised against the use of any copper based alloys for fittings in direct contact with the tank, so I custom ordered all aluminum fittings.   (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• Pickup tubing - I have used PEX tubing before with good success. It is stiff enough yet also flexible enough and with enough feed back to feel your way along the bottom of a tank. If you cut the end at an angle you can often walk it along the bottom to the deepest corner then suck out the sump. If you need to pre-bend it a heat gun works well. (source)
• We then used a hand pump to remove fuel with large amounts of crud and water, let it settle a day, pumped again, let it settle, etc, for several days, until no more crud or water came out.Since then, we repeat this once a year, and get little or no more crud and no water. The bacteria require water, so we run all of our new fuel through a West Marine fuel filter that traps both particles and water. We try to keep our tank full to avoid any condensation. We installed a Racor filter that is much larger than that recommended for our engine, to provide extra filtering capacity. We also stopped using a biocide.    (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
• All water should be drained from storage tanks periodically. The frequency will depend on the ease of removal, volume of fuel throughput and tolerance of water-related problems. It is not always an easy task, but tanks should never go more than 6 months without having bottoms removed.Be sure to remove water and bottoms until the product being removed is “clear and bright”. Remember, emulsions being held stable at the bottom of the tank due to sediment or biological growth can cause problems just as bad as if you were pumping straight water    (http://www.cleanfuelguys.com/heat.html)
• Disadvantages - Fuel polishing won’t hurt anything but your wallet but, as I mentioned, won’t actually clean the tank, walls etc. something folks seem to think it will do. The problem with most tanks is that the pick up tube only goes within about 1 – 1 1/2″ to the bottom so you really never pick up the living debris accumulated on the bottom of the tank.      (http://www.capedory.org/board/)

Product List

• Aquabloc Replacement Elements for Turbine Series Filters – (2 – 2 & 10 Micron) ($15.50 x 2 = $32)
• Heat Deflector Kit – Model #RK15104 (2) ($68 x 2 = $136)
• Racor Fuel Filters / Water Separator – Model #500MA2 (2) ($225 x 2 = $500)
• Perko 1″ Raw-water Strainer – Model #114787, Size 6 ($320)
• Spin-on Fuel Filter Vacuum Gauge – Model #1606B ($100)
• West Marine Fuel Filter Funnel (for use prior to pumping in fuel)

December 29, 2011 – Recently, I routed 2″ exhaust hose out below the cockpit, through the lazarette bulkhead, through a lazarette “splitter” bulkhead and through the lazarette locker sole to test to see if the 2″ hose would be able to make the required bend.  Happily, I found that the exhaust line ran fine and would have the required loop near the transom where the exhaust exits.  If you’d like to learn more about the projects related to the exhaust, you can do so here – Exhaust Project Section.

Research

• Larger hose reduces back pressure, which is good in general, but 1.5″ hose is adequate for that small engine. Smaller hose and smaller fittings tend to be less expensive, so that might be a good reason to choose that since you’re given the option. There’s no real pitfall to using the larger 2″ hose, other than its additional cost and the additional cost of fittings (through hulls, waterlifts, etc.) to accommodate it. ….HOWEVER…Considering that the manufacturer says 1.5″ or 2″ I would say whichever suits the other fittings in the system.A larger diameter hose means less constriction and better breathing for the engine.A larger diameter also means the exhaust gasses don’t have to move as fast so they transmit a lot more heat on to the exhaust piping on their way out which increases corrosion and wears the exhaust system out faster. Exhaust piping is a consumable part. It doesn’t live forever.The engineers that design the motor look for a balance between these two outcomes.For the size of motor we are talking about I would have to think 1.5″ is plenty big enough . My Honda Civic motor is very efficient with 1.5″… AND…It’s my understanding that oversized pipe actually decreases engine efficiency, as the engine requires a certain amount of back pressure to run properly.My Yanmar 2GMF 13 hp exhaust manifold outlet is only about 1″ diameter (if my memory is correct) and uses 1 1/4″ pipe for the riser. From the end of the riser to the Vetus WLOCKL40R muffler I used 1 1/2″ ID hose (that can be persuaded over the 40mm muffler inlet using a bit of rubber lube), and 1 1/2″ hose to the riser at the transom…..FUTHERMORE…The diameter of the exhaust for internal combustion engines is not related to the “back pressure” so much as it is to the velocity of the exhaust gasses. The engineering gets pretty complex but the concept is that a moving column of any fluid has inertia and the quicker you move it up to a point the more it tries to keep moving, and the more it will create negative pressures between the “pulses” of the cylinders firing, in essence trying to ‘suck’ the exhaust out of the cylinders when the next exhaust stroke comes. Having a large diameter passage allows the gasses mixed with water to meander along, allowing the water to “puddle” and get blown out when the puddle gets too large. A smaller diameter passage keeps the gasses moving briskly and causes the cooling water to exist pretty much as spray, (except in the trap) which makes it move better, and the spray also destroys the accoustic qualities of the tube better, making it quieter. There is no benefit going larger than the exhaust fitting on the engine.You can however restrict too much, but that is obvious. ( source )
• When you have bends in your hose you need the wire-reinforced type to prevent kinking and collapse.I don’t know what “soft” exhaust hose is, but in general exhaust hoses are called “hardwall” because of the makeup of the hose itself, with or without wire. Whatever you use, be sure it’s marked as “wet exhaust hose” (the exact markings vary brand to brand) and you’re ensured of the correct product. ( source )
• The most bendable reinforced hardwall exhaust hose is the corrugated type, such as this Shieldsaust- C. The corrugations make bending almost easy.
• Exhaust hose requires a heavy-duty, fabric-reinfoced construction. Until recently, there were no standards governing these hoses, but quality hose was invariably labeled “Type Certified Marine Exhaust Hose” or something similar….The [new] standard requires that the hose be able to withstand a total loss of cooling water for two minutes with the engine running at full power, and still not suffer a loss of integrity – a very tough test. Any hose that meets the J2006 standard (it is written on the hose itself) can be counted on to give good service. (Cruising Handbook, p. 229)
• Exhaust hose comes with or without wire reinforcement. In the former case, it is known as hardwall; in the latter, softwall. Most manufacturers recommend that hose runs longer than 4 – 6 times the inside diameter of the hose (most exhaust hoses), or those with relatively tight curves, be wire-reinforced for added support. The objective is to prevent hose kinking on bends, sagging on long horizontal runs, and panting (pulsing) from the constant pressure changes that occur in an exhaust. If a hose is adequately supported and if tight bends are avoided, the reinforcement can be avoided; however, the support is critical. The hose should never span open spaces or be hung from deck beams because the painting will cause chafe at the supports or hangers. If necessary, the hose should be given a bed to sit on. (Cruising Handbook, p. 229)
• For exhaust applications, radiator hose will not do. You need exhaust hose. Exhaust hose is similar in construction to radiator hose. Actually you may find exhaust hose without wire reinforcing – sort of a high-temperature heater hose – but soft-wall hose is a bad idea for exhaust. Hard-wall hose will not collapse in bends or be crushed by shifting contents in a locker it passes through. Exhaust hose is constructed of synthetic rubber and should carry an SAE J2006 designation, which will be stenciled right on the hose. This tells you the hose can withstand a temperature of 1,000F for at least 2 1/2 minutes – hopefully enough time for you to notice the change in exhaust note, or the heat gauge needle climbing toward the red, and shut down the engine. The best exhaust hose, like the best radiator hoses, is constructed of silicone and can carry a continuous temperature rating of up to 500F, almost insuring that other consequences of no cooling water flow will preempt exhaust hose damage. A hose supplier may call all high-temperature tolerant hoses (steam hose), but be sure that what you buy for exhaust use is also petrochemical resistant.
• Before you replace exhaust hose, consult the manual for your engine to see what diameter is specified. New engines are too often fitted to old and undersized exhaust plumbing to the detriment of the engine. Exhaust hose can never be too big, only too small. (This Old Boat, p. 315)
• Radiator Hose – If you are sucking fluid through a hose rather than pushing it through, blockage on the suction side can cause heater hose to collapse like a straw in a thick shake. Radiator hose corrects this flaw by constructing the hose around a wire helix – like incorporating a stretched coil spring as the center ply. Just as the inelastic woven ply in a heater hose prevents it from expanding when subjected to heat pressure, the helical wire in radiator hose prevents it from collapsing when subjected to suction. The reinforcing wire also will prevent the hose from kinking when it is bent. Better radiator hose, also called wire-reinforced or hard-wall hose, also has a woven ply or two to restrict expansion. Wire-reinforced hose is your only choice for hoses on the suction side of both the coolant and the raw water plumbing for your engine or generator. Use hard-wall hose on the suction side of a deck-wash pump or a raw-water pump for refrigeration or air conditioning. Also use only hard-wall hose for any run that requires more than a gentle bend from one end to the other. Here’s a tip: if your plumbing requires a sharp bend in a water hose, a trip to an auto parts store…can often turn up a hard-wall hose with a molded bend that can be adapted to your needs by shortening one or both ends. Standard 1 1/2″ radiator hose is an excellent choice for hoses connecting to 1 1/2″ through-hull fittings – cockpit drains, high-capacity bilge pump hose, even head discharge lines. (This Old Boat, p. 314 -5)

First round of fairing on the port toe rail.

Both the toe rail and bow platform have been adhered, fastened, fiberglassed and faired.  They are now permanent parts of the boat and I’m quite happy with the results.  The final decision to use the teak toe rail and bow platform that came with the boat, required a fair amount of planning and research.

Originally, I had been planning to install bulwarks for their added safety at sea.  However, I finally came to the conclusion that using the existing toe rail would be simplest.  Not only would I save the original teak toe rail, but I also like the look of toe rails on the B27.   Further, I would save money on buying all the fittings and new teak that would go along with a bulwark. You can find all of my bulwark research at the Bulwark Project Page.

Regarding the bow platform, originally I had planned on adding a bowsprit, but decided against this modification when I determined to keep the B27 rigged as a Sloop.  Previously, I was considering converting to a Scutter Rig, which would require a bowsprit instead of a platform.  However, I decided against a Scutter Rig, because it would be simpler to use the existing Sloop Rig and cheaper as well.  I’ll likely go into more detail about why I made this decision in a later post.

If you’re interested in reading more about these two projects, you can do so at the following project pages:

• Toe Rail
• Bow Platform

Cockpit sole, mattress supports, traveler and hatch opening all receive their initial fairing.

Construction of the cockpit continues.  This work includes the traveler, cockpit sole “slope” modification, hatch opening, and mattress supports.  To be clear, I’ve described each of these pieces below:

• Traveler – The traveler is used to change the position where the mainsheet connects to the boat.  In my case, I’ve installed the traveler in the aft portion of the cockpit.
• Cockpit Sole “Slope” Modification -when I mention the “cockpit slope modification”, this is related to the change I made to the cockpit sole so it drains aft, rather than forward.  To make the water flow properly, I had to modify the slope of the sole.  When I mentioned
• Hatch Opening – I’ll be installing an aluminum hatch to access the area below the cockpit.  I’ve framed out the hatch opening so the hatch will fit in place when I’m ready.
• Mattress Supports – The cockpit sole will have a teak grate installed that, when lifted, will be able to be create a complete platform in the cockpit.   The idea is that when necessary, the entire cockpit can be turned into an outside sleeping area.

If you’re interested in reading more about this project, plus seeing images, research and my planning process building up to this repair, please visit the following pages:

• Cockpit
• Cockpit Drainage
• Deck Locker

November 22, 2011

I spent the past weekend continuing my work on the toe rail.  I faired the entire toe rail, plus  the bow platform.  Fairing was especially necessary, because when I first laid the fiberglass + filet, I found that the thickened epoxy filet had impressions underneath the thin, 14 oz. cloth.  This resulted in what I can only describe as a “bumpy” toe rail.  Here’s an image to explain what I mean:

If you look down the port toe rail, you can see how the toe rail looks "bumpy" due to the unevenly spread epoxy thickener below

So, to solve this, I sanded the toe rail down as best I could.  In some spots, unfortunately, I had to sand down through a layer of fiberglass.  This isn’t ideal, because sanding through fiberglass layers essentially weakens the bond between the fiberglass, toe rail and deck, however there weren’t too many spots I needed to do this in.  Once sanding was complete, I put on the first coat of fairing.  I’ll definitely be hitting this fairing with some more sanding, plus another round of fairing/sanding or two, but overall I really liked how it turned out.  See the first results of fairing below:

First round of fairing on the port toe rail.

Stern lazarette deck and toe railed after first fair.

 November 10, 2011

Over the past few days I’ve been working on installing the toe rail.  I’ve had my friend Ben Young working with me for the past 3 nights.  Overall, the toe rail took me 4 days to fully install on deck.  I’ve decided to give an overview of what I did each day to paint a picture of the steps required to complete this project:

+  Day 1 – I began by cleaning up the old toe rails.  I removed all the old caulking and sanded the toe rails to make for easier handling.  Once cleaned, I moved the toe rails on deck and aligned the forward toe rails with the bow platform.  I would install one, 1/4″ fastener at a time.  I would drill a hole in the same location as the original fasteners had been starting with the forward most hole.  I slowly worked backwards until the forward toe rails were both on.  Then, using the same “drill a hole, install fasteners forwards to back” technique, I installed the aft toe rails.

+  Day 2 – Ben and I installed 1 toe rail today.  I removed the fasteners I had installed the previous day, then inserted shims between the toe rail and the deck, allowing us to put 5200 caulking below the toe rail.  Once the caulking was in place, I drilled the fasteners through the deck and Ben installed the nuts and washers below deck.  Ben also cut all the glass for the toe rail layup using 2 layers of 7.5 oz cloth.  One layer was 14cm, the second layer was 18 cm.

+  Day 3 – Ben and I installed the second toe rail today using the same 5200 + 1/4″, 3″ fasteners.  We also thickened the bow platform and aft toe rail into place.  I then sanded the toe rails and trimmed any areas that were slightly out of alignment using my oscillating saw.

+  Day 4 – This was a big fiberglass day.  Ben helped me for a few hours and we installed the bow platform glass, plus the port toe rail.  I finished up by glassing in the starboard and aft toe rail.  I also made sure to install a block on the aft toe rail to mount a stern anchor roller.

November 9, 2011

I’ve decided to add toe rails to the boat instead of bulwarks.

 Questions

Bulwarks

+ Will I add bulwarks?
-> As of 10/2011, I was firmly for adding bulwarks. During the winter of 2010, I planned my deck configuration extensively and came to the conclusion that I would mount bulwarks on the deck. You can see the evidence of this planning in the questions below. However, as the months progressed, my opinions on bulwarks changed. Eventually, I decided to use the old toe rails from the previous boat, but fiberglass them in place. To be clear, here’s why I decided to go with a toe rail instead of a bulwark:

• Teak & Fittings are expensive - If I was going to get a piece of teak that would create a bulwark for each side of the boat, it would likely have cost $500+ plus at least another $500 for fittings. Instead, I will re-use the teak toe-rails that were included with my Bristol 27 originally and only need to pay for fasteners and fiberglass to adhere it.
• Toe Rail Saves time - Instead of having to fabricate special bulwark bases, the bulwark piece itself, plus all the mounting locations and so on, it would take me a fair amount of time. With the toe rails, the piece is already complete and ready to be installed.
• Toe Rail will be Very Strong - My plan for attaching the toe rails is to put 5200 down, then fasten the toe rails to this. Once in place, I will then glass the toe rails with 2 layers of 7.5 oz cloth, fair, then paint the entire toe rail. The teak is essentially a “core” for the toe rail.

+ At what spacing should the bulwark brackets/supports be placed? How will they integrate with stanchions, pushpit and pulpit?
-> If I divide the deck into equal portions between the current end point of the pushpit and the pulpit, then I have 702cm between them (each begin 72cm from bow or stern – total length of roughly 846cm). If I divide 702 by 9, I get 78. That seems like a reasonable spacing for support, and would mean that I would have 3 supports between the pushpit and first stanchion, then 2 supports + 2 stanchion supports (4 total stanchion to stanchion) and then 2 supports between the forward-most stanchion base and the pulpit. There is some concern as to how exactly the bulwark will meet the pulpit, since it hits the bulwark in a location that isn’t equal to 78 cm of support and it also seems to lean too far outboard to allow a bulwark to get by. These mounts will have to be specially designed.

-> Bases (per side)…

• 7 standard bases
• 2 stanchion bases
• 1 end (for stern)
• 1 integrated with current pushpit
• 1 – 2 integrated with pulpit
• 1 integrated with bow platform (may not require hardware, instead just blends via a cut of some sort)

-> As of 3/17, I think I’d like to get Eric’s final opinion on this so I can answer the above questions about the strength of the angle-bracket.

-> I asked Eric about the spacing of the supports and he thought that this support spacing looked good. I also feel that 78 cm will be good spacing and have marked this question as researched.

-> On 3/29 I came to give this some more thought as the bow platform and third stanchion came into being. The 78cm measurement doesn’t quite work anymore as the space is divided differently. I tried spacing supports 76cm starting 10cm from the pushpit and found that one of the stanchions would end up right in the middle of the galley portlight. This isn’t quite acceptable so I thought about spacing the middle area by stanchions, then break those areas up. However, I didn’t end up measuring that tonight and I will get to it soon with a different mindset.

-> On 3/30 I called Port Townsend Foundry and spoke with Pete to ask for some more information about bulwark and bulwark-stanchion bases. He will send me more images tomorrow, but I asked a quick question as to how often bulwarks needed support and he mentioned they are often placed 3 – 4′ apart, but it depends on the flare of the boat itself.

-> On 4/1 Port Townsend Foundry sent me a number of designs they have for bulwarks, bulwark ends and stanchion bases. I’ll have to keep thinking about how these compare to what I had thought about things and will also mention that they are all bronze, which up until this point wasn’t part of my plan.

-> I did some quick calculations on this (4/4) and found that I could have the following numbers:

• 10 attachments space @ 2.7′
• 9 attachments spaced @ 3′
• 8 attachments spaced @ 3.375′
• 7 attachments spaced @ 3.86′

The number that looks best is 9, as it gives me 3 stanchions, 2 end plates leaving 4 bases to be spaced out. I determined the layout on page 64 of the 2nd Notebook. I think this will work just fine, however I still want to understand order of operation and also pass the idea by Eric today.

-> I’ve decided against adding bulwarks (10/21).

+ How will I design the bases, brackets and ends of the bulwarks? How will the bulwarks attach to the stanchions?
-> First, regarding the bases, there is now (3/17) a standard fabrication & construction techniques for all on-deck bases. The basic design can be found on page 26 of the 2nd notebook. Here is the basic construction of a deck base (3/17):

1. Mark location & shape of block on deck
2. Drill holes to show location of marks below deck
3. Layup underside of deck to make even surface for blocks if this is a side-deck block. If this is a cabin-top block, no layup is required below deck
4. Cut block(s). If this is a side-deck block, cut 2 blocks for above and below deck. If this is a cabin-top installation, one thicker block will be used in conjunction with the balsa core
5. Trace the blocks above and below deck

Here is the layup process of the bases:

1. Epoxy coat the blocks
2. Thicken wet epoxied blocks and put in place
3. Screw the blocks in from above the deck – squeezing the thickened epoxy together (this step will require 2 people)
4. Thicken screw holes and edges of blocks
5. Fiberglass block above and below deck
6. Fair

In the bulwarks case, it’s nice to have a standard pattern of steps to repeat and the bases will also make the bulwark bases look good from the side, as no metal of the brackets will be showing if I construct them well. See page 27 of the 2nd Notebook for the basic design.

Second, regarding the brackets and ends for the bulwarks, I have drawn their design on page 27 – 28 of the 2nd Notebook. Here’s why I like the design of the bulwark stanchion & standard bases:

• Base will be quite strong considering the layup technique and all fasteners
• Bolts from the teak will be a bit more protected as ankles will have the bent-bar-support keeping them away (in theory)
• Design can be repeated for both the stanchion bases and the standard bulwark bases
• Bent-bar-support can be used as a snatch block attachment point at various
• Bent-bar-support can be used as a line “runway” as lines run from the bow to the stern
• Bent-bar-support will resist pulling and pushing of stanchion bases and teak bulwark
• Fastener holes are well spaced and strong
• It’s a bit more in the way than a flush base, however the added convenience of all the above is worth it

Here’s why I’m satisfied with the design of the bulwark ends:

• It can be used forward and aft and will look just as good
• The exact position of the bases can be placed at will
• It is a simple design overall
• Termination of the teak looks modern and clean

At this point, I think I’ve actually answered this question. I’m going to show this to Eric to review and see if he has any comments. After that, I can take some final measurements for the size of the bases themselves. Those decisions will be based on the following:

• What is the final spacing of the bases? This will determine how strong (read: thick) the angle-bracket will be
• What is the thickness of the bulwark teak? This will determine how far back the angle-bracket must sit on it’s mounting base
• What gauge are the stanchion bases? Their size will determine how wide the brackets need to be so that the teak mounting nuts can sit on either side.
• What angle must the angle brackets be set so they are in-line w/ the hull’s flare?
• Is the u-bar angle I have drawn going to be strong enough?

-> From a discussion with Eric on 3/21 & 3/22, here’s what I learned:

• Thickness of Teak = He things that I should use at least 1″ thickness, because it is an area of potential impact. Teak doesn’t have compression strength, so when bolting on, spread the load of the fasteners. So a backing plate on the outside of teak that matches the same
• Gauge of Metal = 1/4″ for the bases. I can get stanchions with our without the base. Can get stanchion bases that are used for bulwark like that. New Found Metals or Port Townsend Foundry. He thought that maybe 1/8″ or 3/16″
• Angle of Brackets = I don’t want the stanchions to angle outboard, instead they should be straight up. Instead of angling each of the brackets, I should make each of them 90 degrees and then modify each pad to match the angle of the teak bulwark I have planned.
• End Brackets = Eric suggested that I put a cap on the end of the bulwark as the ends of the wood are what split first. He thought that if I added a little loop at the end of it, it might be a good place to tie something off to and the more of those I have around the better. He also mentioned that the bulwark should end before the puplit bases to make it easier. I’ve drawn a quick sketch of what this might look like on page 28 of the 2nd Notebook. IMAG1038.jpg also shows a good base end.
• Fitting Teak = To check to see what size of teak I will need, I should run a level line from the bow and the stern. Then, from the highest point, add the height of my bulwark (15.5cm) and that’s the size of the piece of wood I will need. Once I know this size, I should go buy a scrap piece of wood that is this size + a 3/4″ (the gap size between the deck and the bulwark – maybe 2×8″?). With this wood in hand, I should put those pieces of wood together somehow and put a compass tip on the deck and the marker on the wood, allowing me to transfer the sheer line onto the wood template. I can then cut this template and see where my scarfs will be for the final teak. I will probably end up using 8′ pieces of teak. I think I’m pretty clear on how to do this, however I’m not 100% sure how it will all go down as I’ve never done scarfing nor a piece of wood in this shape before.

Here’s the action items left over at this point:

+  Fully understand how to fit the teak
-> Eric gave me a very good understanding of how the teak will be fit on 3/22. The “Fitting Teak” area (just above) is a good description of how to do this. I will have to ask questions during the process as they come up, but I have the basic idea that I need to get some 8′ sections of 1″ x 8 – 10″ scrap wood to test how to get the piece of teak set-up and I’ve added it to my purchase list.

+  Talk to Leanord (the yard welder) and see what he thinks about making the bases
-> On 3/26 I spoke with Leanord and he said he could easily make these kinds of things.

+  Check Port Townsend to see if they have any of this hardware available for purchase and price it out/see if it will work for me.
-> I’ve made this a research item.

+  Determine order of operations – do I need to cut the bulwark in order to know the angle the angle-brackets need to rest in order to angle the blocks they rest on properly?
-> I just looked at the boat (3/28) and noticed that the angle of the deck is about the same all the way around. I will need the stanchions to face upwards as much as possible Here’s my current thinking:

1. Purchase 90 deg. brackets
2. Cut blocks which are basically correct.
3. Test fit wood onto blocks and angles.
4. Make changes to blocks are required
5. Final test fit

My thinking is that I should have a basic idea for what the brackets should do, perhaps by purchasing them first, then putting them on deck and testing

I think the above answers are great, but there is still some outstanding questions as to how the bowsprit will come together and how the stanchions will meet the bow area. Here are my new questions:

+  Where will the final stanchion and bulwark bases be near the bow? Will another stanchion need to be added forward of the currently templated middle stanchion base?

-> I think the answer at this time (3/29) is yes. The reason I need to add one is because as the bow platform or bowsprit moves forward, it means that there will need to be additional stanchions. The big question

+  How does the bulwark interact with the pushpit?

-> I’ve just (3/29) taken a look at things regarding the pushpit and found that if I terminate the bulwark just before the first pushpit base (on starboard or port) I will have 54cm of space between the base and a future cleat. This means the bulwark won’t interfere w/ the stern area much and will give quite a broad range of motion for an anchor rode. I’ve drawn “end fitting” design on page 44 of the 2nd Notebook.

+  How does the bulwark interact with the new pulpit?

->  The bulwark will terminate (at this time – 3/29) at 78 cm from the bow, near the forward most stanchion base. It won’t have any interaction with the new pulpit. I’ve drawn the “end fitting” design on page 45 of the 2nd Notebook.

-> I came back to this question as, at this time (4/4), I have a good idea about what kind of hardware options I have. The big question is now regarding the number of bases I’d like to install and that will guide my final decisions based on the arrangement of possible mounting styles.

+ Are the hawse pipes involved in my bulwark plans? How are lines lead to them? Will the bulwark also go on the stern?
-> My plan (1/10/10) is to not have the stern have a bulwark.

-> Even then, if I want to run any lines below the bulwarks I can just run the lines underneath the bulwarks, therefore hawse pipes don’t need to be involved.

-> On 3/29, I wanted to come back to give this answer a little clarity that hawse pipes are not involved with my bulwark plans as I plan to terminate the bulwarks far enough forward and aft, and the stern and bow mooring cleats will have plenty of room for the lines to be run. Lines are led to them quite simply an directly off the boat. Also, at this time I plan to terminate the bulwarks from the stern by @ least 54cm so there will be a good free area between the mooring cleats and the bulwark terminus.

+ How high/thick should the bulwarks be? How high off the deck do I want the bulwarks?
-> Related Measurements

• Height of Portlight in relation to deck at freeboard = 17.5

-> Here is what I have at this time (1/16)…

• Height (Overall) = 15.5
• Thickness = 1.5 -> 2
• Height (Above Deck) = 2

-> As of 3/28, I’ve decided the thickness of the teak should be 2.54cm (1″) or more. This will need to be very strong for all the tasks and forces I have planned.

+ How will the [sheeting block track thing along the sidedeck] work now that I will use bulwarks instead of toe rail?
-> From a discussion with Paul Van Dyk on 1/16, I believe the the sheeting track will not be involved any longer as long as my supports for the bulwarks have some kind of “clip” points on them for the clue (?) of the sail so t his is the new design question…how to get the clip points built into the mounts for the bulwarks.

-> On 3/21 I had a discussion about this topic with Eric and he suggested that I can use the U-bar’s I drew on my mounts for attaching the snatch block could be used and would be strong enough for this purpose. He also suggested thinking about using a nylon/dy-ema (new materials – very strong, suple UV resistant) webbing that was synched around the bulwark that could be moved along the bulwark that would act as a sail track. I was a little worried about the pull this might have on the bulwarks themselves, but he said the forces on this are mainly just “directional” and the real pressure is on the winch base. He also noted that I can use that as a preventer when sailing downwind to prevent an accidental jibe.

+ What are hawseholes with cleat horns built in?
-> These are meant to be for toe-rails, when the cleat is built in, it necessitates a very strong point and will not work for my circumstances since my bulwarks will be mounted above deck as well as not too thick (read: not strong enough).

+ Is the best way to mount the stanchions to just mount them off of the bulwark?
-> The quick answer is yes, because it limits the number of holes required, but there might be a good chance that the placement of the bulwark mount and the stanchion bases are at places where they can serve both purposes

+ Would I consider mounting the bulwark hardware to the side of the hull?
-> No, not at this time (1/10) and here’s why:

• I don’t think this would look very good really.
• The lifelines will be mounting and support locations, and most likely the hardware will have to be in line those.
• The flare of the deck probably wouldn’t match quite right if the attach points were on the hull.
• I feel like it’s too early to tell though, this might all change, but at this time I say no…

Research

Bulwarks

• Obviously they keep the deck a little drier…on a major heel they can provide a good walking surface, or if not high enough, at least a ledge against which one can wedge one’s feet. In any rough sea the psychological comfort they provide through their visual massiveness, can be of value…the most vital service…is to reinforce the stanchions.  (From a Bare Hull)
• With bulwarks of any height you have to the opportunity to install stanchions that will actually serve some purpose. The stanchions can be so fabricated as to bolt through the bulwarks at well spread points. This reinforcement will shorten the treacherous lever arm and make the term lifelines less of a joke.  (From a Bare Hull)
• In place of toe rails, we added a 1” x 4” teak bulwark 34 feet long set ¾” above the deck on each side. The bulwarks are fastened every six feet to vertically placed fore-and-aft Everdur plates (5/32” x 3 ¼” x 3 ¼” inches) that I had welded on the outsides of the bronze stanchion bases. The bulwarks has been a complete success because it is higher (for safety) and because the ¾” space underneath allows any water that lands on deck to run off at once. Our decks are much drier than previously. Also, the space under the bulwarks reduces some of the force of boarding waves that might otherwise tend to break the bulwarks  (After 50,000 miles, p. 44)
• Sure footing at the perimeter of the deck is essential…Adding 6” bulwarks [is best]. New Found Metals of Pot Townsend, WA, makes handsome cast bronze fitting for hardwood bulwark ends that accept 3 5/16 boards. Elevating the boards 1” off deck allows water to run off…Also plan on hawse-holes, so you can sell use your breast cleats. One can’t begin to appreciate the sense of security good bulwarks provide until sitting on the foredeck in a gale, trying to change jibs.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 184)
• The cruising boat needs several pairs of hawse-holes (hole sin the bulwarks through which mooring and anchoring lines are led) or sturdy chicks (a fitting on the caprail or bulwark that services the same purpose). These should include a pair up forward (port and starboard), a pair amidships (used for spring lines and maneuvering on and off docks) and a pair aft (for the stern anchor). In all cases, the must lead to substantial cleats through-bolted to the deck or bulwarks with large backing blocks. In addition to brute strength, the other critical installation feature is to minimize chafe to rodes…the farther a cleat from its hawsehole or fairlead, the greater is the stretch and sag in the rode under changing loads, and the greater its sawing action….if the boat has substantial enough bulwarks, using the kind of hawsehole that has cleat horns built into it represents the best setup. This almost completely eliminates chafe and, short of the bulwarks being torn out of the boat or the horns breaking off, the cleat is not going to let go.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 109)
• Bulwark mounted cleats do not provide a fairlead from the bow rollers to the cleats, so they need to be backed up with either two more large cleats in line with the bow rollers, or some kind of samson post (a strong post mounted through the foredeck) or bitts (two strong posts generally at the base of a bowsprit designed to absorb its compression loads).  (Cruising Handbook, p. 109)
• At all times, the locations of hawseholes, fairleads, cleats, and posts relative to a windlass and the forestays must be such that it is possible to handle the ground tackle without getting fouled up in rigging.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 109)

Product List

Bulwarks

• Bulwark Bases (8)**
• Bulwark Caps (4) **
• Teak (for bulwark)

** = Leanord welds this

Toe Rail

• 7.5 oz. Finishing Cloth
• Marine 5200 Adhesive Sealant
• 1/4″ x 3″ Fasteners (plus nuts & washers)

The area where the head (aka toilet) is now complete.  In this small compartment, a composting toilet will be mounted.  I call this area the “head compartment”, because it really is just a small compartment which has been dedicated to the head.

The compartment is water-tight (to well above waterline level) and is built in the same location as where the original Bristol 27 head was.  I decided to fiberglass the area around the head so it can double as a “wet bin” for wet clothes.

Using the head will be slightly awkward, however since I won’t be using the head very often, that’s the compromise I made.  When I do need to use the head, it will be only for short periods.  So, when I compared the time spent on the toilet to the time spent sitting in the salon (for example), I decided to dedicate more space to other areas of the boat.

If you’re interested in learning more about the head, you can do so at the following pages:

• Head Compartment
• Head

• Model: 
• Year Built: 
• Hull #:
• Vessel Name: My Maria
• Owner Name: Andrew Dryver
• Hailing Port: