December 29, 2011

Recently, I routed 2″ exhaust hose out below the cockpit, through the lazarette bulkhead, through a lazarette “splitter” bulkhead and through the lazarette locker sole to test to see if the 2″ hose would be able to make the required bend.  Happily, I found that the exhaust line ran fine and would have the required loop near the transom where the exhaust exits.  If you’d like to learn more about the projects related to the exhaust, you can do so here - Exhaust Project Section.  Here’s an image of the hose looping successfully in the lazarette:

Nice loop!

July 14, 2011

Upon completion, my sailboat will only have 2 through-hulls:  one for the engine raw-water intake and one for the sink.  I’ve glassed in a backing plate for the raw-water seacock while constructing the bilge, however I’m not entirely sure if it will work or not.  I’ll probably need to make a decision as to using the already glassed fiberglassed backing plate or installing a new plate here in the next couple of weeks.

Research

Questions

+ Hose/Pipe – what type, size, length? How many valves, fittings, adapters, seacocks, etc. do I need? What size?
-> Here’s a list of all the valves, hoses, fittings, etc. needed for the plumbing system. The basic idea is you can read from left to right and see the flow of each system. The list of valves & hoses combined on 3/10 and modified again on 3/31/11 & 4/1/11. Previously, list of valve was modified on 1/30/11 & 2/5/11 and list of hose/pipe was modified on 1/14/11, 1/21/11 & 1/22/11 & 1/30/11 plus many other edits that I didn’t record. Without further ado, a table that needs no introduction, the hoses fittings & valves table:

Key:
* = Bronze (All other valves/fittings are plastic type)
** = slightly too small/large for this fitting. For example, 22mm most closely converts to 20mm = 3/4″ nominal pipe size. Another example of this is the raw water inlet from the strainer to the raw water inlet of the engine (1″ -> 7/8″)

Hose Types:

1. SAE J2006 = Heavy-duty, fabric-reinforced hose (often made to comply with SAE J2006).
2. Radiator = Radiator hose only choice for hoses on the suction side of the raw water plumbing or on the suction side of the coolant. Also an excellent choice for cockpit drains.
3. A1 = Type A1 is best, however, USCG regulations say that flll and vent lines can be type B1 or B2
4. Vinyl = Nontoxic clear reinforced vinyl – FDA approved

Pipe Measurement Reference:

• BSP = British Standard Pipe (A measurement of the outer diameter of the external thread. Used only for pipe)
• Hose Bore = This measurement is equal to the inside diameter of the hose
• NPT = National Pipe Thread (US standard for tapered thread used on threaded pipes and fittings)
• NPS = Nominal Pipe Size (North American set of standard sizes for pipes. Based on two non-dimensional numbers; a nominal pipe size (NPS) for diameter based on inches, and a schedule (Sched. or Sch.) for wall thickness.)

-> Since many of the plans have changed over time, I have ended up canceling a need for some lines, valves or fittings. I think it’s nice to see where some simplification was made, so here’s is a list of things I ended up excluding:

-> I have also been thinking about how the hoses will be run, since the above chart is essentially just identifying the hose to be used, but it doesn’t exactly tell the whole story, I think a better picture of the system can be gained via a diagram or by matching the hose, valve and fitting tables in this section. One thing about the above table, is that I can see how many hose clamps I need just about exactly (each time I see hose barb, that is 2x hose clamps). Here’s the total hose clamps needed: a l ot

From the above chart, here’s what I still need to check on:

• Kerosene Tank fitting types (threaded vs. hose barbs vs. threaded hose barb) & availability of T-fitting for fuel line
• Diesel tank return fuel line size
• Locker Drains

-> On 3/31/11 I gave this whole section a good looking over. Here are the only things that are left to complete (updated on 4/11/11):

Q:  Verify what the pickup prior to the engine driven pump is.
A:  There is no pickup on the pump, the pump works when water level reaches the shaft and water pours into the housing. There is no input pipe and a strainer usually becomes blocked in a real emergency. The pump works submerged and is self priming by virtue of that.

Q:  What are sizes of heater fittings?
A:  Everything can be 1/4″ except for the connections to the heater valve and pump – which are 1/8″. I have updated the fittings table (above).

Q:  What fittings do I need for the Perko strainer? The size going in from the seacock will be 1″ coming in, and I want 7/8″ going out. What size are the fittings on the Perko strainer?
A:  As my seacock inlet is 1″ and the engine inlet is 7/8″, I should get a strainer with a 1″ inlet. I’ve added this to the fitting table (above) and also added the necessary items to the purchase list.

Q:  Might I add a way to drain the icebox to the sink via a pump?
A:  On 4/3/11 I spoke with Eric and he mentioned that I could connect a vinyl hose from the icebox drain to be used in the sink. How would this arrangement work exactly?  Later (4/5/11), I spoke to Eric about this and he mentioned that I could have a Y valve that I just switch depending on the source I want to use. I came back to draw this design (p. 78 of the 2nd Notebook) so that I could get a better idea for how it would look. I also added the required fittings to the fittings, valves, adapters & seacocks table.  Here’s why I will go with this arrangement:  (1)  While it is another system – it’s so basic it’s not really that big of a deal && (2) I can route the drain tube via the settee – if the hoses are clamped off it will be water-tight.

+ How do mm pipe measurements match up with inches?
-> One big example of this is the 1″ seacock I purchased for the engine which is 25.4 mm, but only has 22mm inlet on engine.

-> There is a table, I found a good tablge reference on the “Nominal_Pipe_Size” wikipedia page and have converted the mm measurements (DN) to inches (NPS)

Hose

+ Will I use hardwall (wire reinforced) or softwall (non-enforced)?
-> Calder suggests only if the run is longer than 4 – 6 times the inside diameter of the hose. So…the answer is probably yes.

Seacocks & Through Hulls

+ Where will the sink drain seacock be placed?
-> This is all very dependent on whether or not I use a greywater tank or not.  If sink isn’t plumbed to through hull, then it can be deeper.  Drain will needs a trap if plumbed directly to a thru-hull and it’s best position would be to farthest aft point.

-> There will not be a sink drain seacock anymore (1/14/11).  Instead, I am going to plumb it straight to the grey-water tank in the bottom of the bilge. However, it’s winding route still should be considered, especially in relation to the engine

-> I did some real measurements (1/22/11) and found something great! I took the length from the top of the deck to the top of the old waterline (at the aft end of the aft-most portlight) and found this was 57 cm. I transferred this to the same location inside the hull and found that when this water-line was transferred to the counter piece, it was 30cm ABOVE waterline. This is great news since a deep sink is 25.4 (10”), a medium sink is 22.86 (9”) and a good sink is 20.32 (8”). So, let’s add in some margin of error, say 10% to be safe, so that would make the 30cm measurement really 26.7cm. That is still deeper than the 25.4 of the deepest, however I also should take into account.

Now, I realize that there can, and will be a through-hull fitting with a seacock for the sink. This is cool! I’m very happy to see the above realization, because it means that I am no longer required to drain the sink via a no grey-water tank, and can use a through-hull insead. It will be a 1 1/2” size (which I have already purchased). I believe the seacock will be placed inside the below settee triangle locker, which will be pretty near the centerline of the boat (40cm away) so it should drain well. This also made me realize that with the sink in the way, there won’t be good access for the can stowage below, so I plan to move them to another location below the settee.

-> It’s settled then, there will be a dedicated seacock and drain for the sink.

+ How can I be sure to have good access to the seacock for the sink & engine?
-> I think it will be a challenge in both the sink and engine room, but definitely doable. I will have to keep thinking about it as I move forward from the point (1/30/11), however from my initial layout and placing the seacocks in what will be their final area, it seems to be just barely enough room. I will be keeping it in my mind, but at this time I believe the answer is I will be sure of it!

+ Will I glass the backing plates in place?
-> I have considered this (1/22/11), since it could be glassed in place and all around, which would mean the wood was also encapsulated. It would become a bonded member of the hull then.

-> However (1/30/11), the original backing plates were just wood, not even epoxied. They didn’t show any signs of rot when I removed them. Well, maybe they were a little weak, but they didn’t have any protected except being gobbed onto the hull. So that’s why I think a fully epoxied wood plate would do the job nicely.

+ What will I use for seacock backing plate – wood or composite?
-> I have given some thought to this. I believe I have settled on wood, here’s why:

• A fiberglass or a composite backing plate will be more expensive than wood (though I haven’t researched this to find an exact number, I know when I looked awhile back I was taken aback at the price)
• I don’t believe there is a huge gain to use fiberglass. If there is water intrusion, this is a problem no matter what. The wood can be fully epoxied multiple times (even inside the cut-out hole for the through-hull) which will prevent against all water intrusion. It will be thickened, then set in place.
• Wood may be able to work with (and cheaper if I make a mistake)
• I already have oak on hand to make the backing plates

+ Will I have seacocks on the discharge locations in the transom?
-> I think yes, for sure. At this time I think 3, but I need to plan all the exits etc.

-> At this time (1/22/11), I’m not entirely sure that I will use seacocks anymore. Instead, I will use valves and a thru-hull fittings. I’m not sure what to do with the seacocks I had for the cockpit scuppers, but that’s another determination.

->  As of 3/13/12, the only discharge in the transom that can accept a seacock will be the exhaust (as the cockpit scuppers are not standard pipe size).  The current plan is to place a valve on the exhaust transom fitting so it can be closed in poor conditions.

Purchase List

Fuel & Oil Hose

• 1 1/2″ Type A1 (7′) (for kerosene fill (7′))
• 1/4″ Type A1 (65′) (for kerosene supply (20′), kerosene vent (10′), diesel supply (10′), diesel return (10′), diesel vent (15′))

Fittings

Seacocks & Through Hulls

Water  Hose

• 1 1/2″ Vinyl (15′) (for water tank fill)
• 5/8″ Vinyl (20′) (for water tank vent)
• 1/2″ Vinyl (25′) (for water tank supply (15′), icebox drain (10′))

• Plasticizers – Plasticizers are generally clear, organic, liquid materials that are added to PVC formulation to obtain a flexible film to enhance both processability and serviceability of the end product. Plasticizers are very compatible with PVC resin and become an integral permanent part of the film matrix. Generally higher molecular weight plasticizers used in a variety of product applications including PVC geomembranes and medical bags, have significantly improved plasticizer loss rates over lower molecular weight plasticizers used in low end products such as shower curtains, book binding, etc.  (http://www.morganscloud.com/2008/05/18/pvc-pipe/)
• Pro’s – PVC pipe is dirt cheap, variety – even a small corner hardware store has enough PVC plumbing fittings in stock for most jobs and the bounty in the bins of a large building supply store will let you build almost anything, Flexibility. No, it does not bend, or at least not much, but the amazing variety of PVC pipe fittings allows you to solve some very vexing problems surprisingly easily, Fast Assembly. With a little practice and a pipe cutter you can assemble a plumbing system amazingly quickly using PVC pipe. (You can cut the pipe with a saw, but it is time consuming and messy.) Long Lasting. Even good quality hose only seems to last five years or so, but PVC pipe will last decades. Impervious to Most Chemicals. You can flush a PVC pipe system out with muriatic (hydrochloric) acid; the quickest and, as far as I know, only effective way to get rid of the scale that builds up in head discharge lines. Don’t try that with hose. Impervious to Odors. You can spend a fortune on sanitation grade hose and your holding tank system will still stink, but it won’t if you use PVC pipe. (http://www.morganscloud.com/2008/05/18/pvc-pipe/)
• PVC is corrosion resistant, lighter, its neater looking and maintenance free (at $6, its a throw away item).
• Never use PVC for anything on a boat where if it breaks, it could sink your boat. PVC is just not strong enough. One good kick, slip or if something lands on it, it could break. The cheap price is not worth the risk of sinking your boat. For non-critical applications that cannot sink your boat, then no problem. The problem is, most of those hoses running around your boat below the waterline do have the potential of sinking your boat. For non-critical piping you may want to use ABS instead of PVC.  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• Your boat won’t pass a survey if it has PVC below waterline…HOWEVER…Upon further reading – I notice that Steve Dashew in his Encyclopedia (1997 Edition pg. 802) has no qualms about using them. Also Saint Nigel – patron saint of all things yacht like – uses PVC pipes (Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, 2nd Ed. pg 361) Thus its very odd that someone stated that PVC pipes and fittings wont pass survey now – one possibility could be that my books are pretty old and out of date and standards have since changed.Given that Dashew and Calder are unopposed to the idea of PVC pipes and fittings, perhaps it wasn’t such a stupid idea after all. Although, in their day, all this stuff was made in the USA where quality and standards are always assured. Nowadays, all this stuff is made in China only. The quality of material and construction of anything from the PRC is always questionable. In the end thats what made me think twice.  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• I looked at the PVC valves there, if you check they have steel parts in them a small ring  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• I believe that “Marelon” is a UV stabilized Fibreglass Reinforced Nylon polymer.  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• Maine Cat uses Schedule 40 pipe between the heads and the holding tank on the 41. If Dick Vermeulen approves something, its gospel in my book  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• There is nothing wrong with using plastic fittings and valves as long as they are protected (just as any small diameter pipeword should be even if metal). Contrary to the responses from some others I take it that you are not talking about using rigid PVC pipe, just fittings and valves.I would recommend though that if it is below the water line you use threaded engineering polypropylene fittings which are good for typically close to 250 psi (there are also fibre reinforced ones but are harder to find) and plastic engineering ball valves. These are normally available from any plumbers merchant – I am not familiar with what USA Home Depots stock, but may be available from them too. Above the waterline (say at least 200mm above) then rigid PVC is fine and often the material of preference in high quality builds (eg as Sandy points out, for black water).In our own boat we have the polypropylene fittings and plastic ball valves (it was a professional custom build) below the water line for the seawater distribution headers after the seacocks with no problems at all. They are located so that they are protected from accidental physical damage. Our engine exhaust, which discharges above the waterline, is an example of something we have fabricated from rigid PVC pipe. From the surveys I have seen the greatest cause of flooding accidents in boats is by far from failed metal pipework (ie after the seacocks) so metal solutions are not free from their own problems. Plastics will last the life of the boat, they (like any small diameter fittings and pipework whatever the material) just need to be protected from physical damage.Regarding passing survey for commercial vessels, in the jurisdiction I work in plastics are accepted by local rules as it has been in vessels built to the rules of classification societies that I have been involved with. The usual limitations just being that the material is suitable for the task, including suitability for the fire rating of the compartment they are in, and properly installed for the service. Personally, I believe that would exclude the use of rigid PVC below the waterline in seawater services – it does not exclude other plastics however.  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• PVC plumbing is often used on larger yachts, for domestic water, grey and black water. It must be installed where there can be no flex/risk of bending. Not normally seen on smaller boats because the runs are so short. No problem with PVC. Just dont use it for raw water and connections for under the waterline.  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• Those nylon barbs can be snapped of fairly easily and should be left to domestic water or sanitation use not bellow waterline applications..I personally, on my own boat, snapped a thru-hull fitting when a spare alternator hit the valve in rough seas. No PVC for me and I now only install through bolted seacocks and not just a valve on a thru-hull.Brass, nylon and PVC are fine for domestic h2o or sanitation plumbing as your poop and drinking water won’t sink your boat  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• I’ve got no problem WHAT SO EVER in using sch 40 or 80 PVC pipe or fittings on my boat, the QA/QC is probably better than 80% no 90% of the garbage hoses that I see on many boats.PVC ball valves vary greatly in quality. I’ve got no problem using good ones, however my sea cocks are bronze (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• I used 1.5″ sched 40 PVC pipe in my sanitation plumbing to my holding tank and a portion is below the water line…YIKES! I’ve had bad experiences with so-called marine sanitation hose. It degrades fairly quickly and the “stink” goes right through it. I was leery of using PVC so I did some “rube goldberg” testing to gauge its brittleness. I dropped a 35lb iron dumbell on the pipe from a height of 5ft on a concrete driveway and couldn’t break or crack the pipe….for unplasticised PVC eg rigid Sched 40 & 80, it is subject to embrittlement as the temperature drops and that should be kept in mind for below waterline use. At -10C (14F) its impact strength is typically around 1/4 of that at 20C (68F) but the drop in impact strength from that at 20C and that at the freezing point of water is steep with most occuring between 20C and 10C (50F) – at 10C impact strength is typically nearly half that at 20C but even that reduction is not a problem in use as these are typical working temperatures. As you say though unplasticised PVC Sched 80 & 40 is very resistant to impact so is still so at the lower temperatures but is probably of concern enough to be wary about its use below the waterline.  (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html)
• Wouldn’t copper or rigid PVC pipe be better than vinyl hose? Generally speaking, no. Rigid PVC (or rigid copper) piping is far more difficult to install than hose. Every piece must be cut to a precise length, and every change in direction requires an elbow and two connections – potential leak sources. Even when the run is straight, the restricted spaces on a boat are likely to prevent installing a long length of pipe as a single piece. And unlike houses, the “walls” in a boat are not straight and square, so unless the pipe has considerable flexibility, it will “bridge” the hull rather than lie against it. Given that the pipe is sure to pass through stowage areas, rigid PVC is at greater risk of damage than hose from a shift of the other contents of the locker.  (This Old Boat, p. 316)

Questions

+ How much compressive strength does PVC have?
-> I’m a little concerned (2/11/11) about the heavy weight of the tank (especially at a “point” at the bottom of the tank) will affect the PVC pipe below. I don’t think that PVC has too much of a problem, as it can be buried, however I should think about it’s compressive strengths. With the above said, I should take into account that there will be fiberglass on top of the pipe and thereby strengthened. At this time, I had been planning to add 1-2 layers of fiberglass on the PVC to make it hardier and make it “one” with the hull.

-> I looked around online, I couldn’t find much (I was on my phone too), but I did find one answer that said: (answerbag.com)

PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride) manufacturer Harvel Plastics says its rigid PVC piping has a tensile strength of 7,260 psi (pounds per square inch). Harvel rates the flex strength of it’s pipe at 12,000 psi. and the compressive strength at 8,300 psi.

I did some more research regarding compressive strength and this was verified by other sources regarding the compressive strength being quite high. Other sources rated PVC higher @ 9,600. Considering compressive strength is what I’m worried about and I will be increasing that strength (by adding layers of glass for protection), I think I shouldn’t have any worry regarding placing PVC under the tanks, in fact, I might even be able to use them as a “point of securing” like the ribs will be.

December 29, 2011

The traveler has been installed for a couple months now.  It was a decision between using the old mainsheet blocks or adding a traveler.  When I first bought my Bristol 27, it had a traveler and I also asked other Bristol 27 owners (via our Facebook group) as to what they would prefer.  I would say the majority of other B27 owners actually liked the mainsheet, dual block system that originally came with the B27.  A few did prefer the traveler and mentioned it’s ability to better go upwind.  I was a torn about this decision, because it would be far simpler to use the existing mounts for mainsheet blocks than to install a traveler.   I also wasn’t a big fan of how much room the traveler might take up in the cockpit.  Further, I liked the price of buying two blocks compared to an entire traveler system.  In the end, I decided to go with a traveler, here’s why:

• There are some benefits to upwind sailing when using a traveler as you have more specific control over the mainsheet’s location.
• The engine controls will be mounted below the traveler and the traveler should stop most lines from getting caught up in these controls.
• I plan to have a teak grate in the cockpit that will be able to be raised up to create a full mattress in the cockpit.  By installing the traveler, I was able to build out two blocks which will support the mattress.
• I’ll be new to sailing when I eventually hit the water, so a traveler may give me more ability to fiddle and play with the sails as I learn the ropes.
• I have plans

Research

• If halyards and reeflines and furling gear lines are led aft to the cockpit, one will increase one’s comfort as well as one’s chances of staying aboard. This could cut down on the number of winches needed, for with the use of stops and as many as three lines could be managed with one winch. The one thing I do dislike about this system is that it usually means lines strung out over the cabin top which makes tying in reefs, and dowsing the main somewhat more treacherous, but then that’s the trade-off.  (From a Bare Hull, p. 36)
• The design of the whole rigging – both running and standing – is of great importance to the comfort of a boat’s crew. If the standing rigging is well designed for example, if inboard shrouds are done so as to leave a decent passage either out or inboard of them, if the backstay is so located (either well back of split or yoked to allow the helmsman to stand comfortably beneath it), and if the running rigging is kept out of the way of the crew’s movement but winched well and safely around the cockpit, and if proper stowage is provided for the reams of line that end up heaped on the cockpit sole, then one can feel much safer and much more comfortable aboard.
• …it is possible to arrange the lines so that all sail-handling functions (short of putting on sail ties and a sail cover) can be accomplished from the security of the cockpit…The drawbacks are the added friction generated by running the lines through the necessary blocks and the mass of lines that end up in the cockpit, with the substantial number of rope clutches needed to keep the lines under control.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 68)
• Running rigging is the term for the rigging of a sailing vessel that is used for raising, lowering and controlling the sails – as opposed to the standing rigging, which supports the mast and other spars. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Running_rigging)
• Running rigging consists of all the fiber and wire ropes used to raise, lower and trim sails. Breaking a halyard is not usually a catastrophe, though if it happens when hove-to with storm sails, quick action is required to regain control of the boat. Because the breaking strength of running rigging is seldom tested under straight loads, most problems are caused by chafe – unfair leads, rough-edged sheaves and rubbing against standard rigging.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 206)
• 7×19 wire rope, because of its greater flexibility, is used for running rigging…  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• Fiber cores are sometimes added to increase flexibility, which is important for running rigging where wire rope passes through sheaves and blocks under tremendous strain. The fiber core, however, lessens the strength of the wire compared to wire-core rigging.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• Running Rigging….lines which control and adjust the sails:  (http://www.sailingusa.info/parts_of_the_boat.htm)
• Halyard – A line used to raise a sail.
• Sheet – The chief line which is used to adjust a sail against the force of the wind. The mainsail has one sheet. The jib has two, a working (leeward) sheet and a lazy (windward) sheet.
• Boom Vang – A line which places downward tension on the boom.
• Outhaul – Places backward tension on the clew of the mainsail. When tightened it will flatten the lower one-third of the mainsail.
• Reefing Line – A line used to shorten the sail.
• Nylon – slightly stronger than Dacron and more stretch – about 17% of it’s load under load. Because of it’s elasticity, nylon is most suitable for applications where one wants the line to function as a shock absorber – anchor rodes, docklines and dingy painters.
• Dacron – about half the stretch of nylon and so is preferred for halyards, sheets, guys and vangs; pre-stretched rope has, of course, even less stretch.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• Dacron jib sheets should be sized not just so much for strength as for comfort in handling. Smaller lines cut into the palms. If each sheet is long enough for a knot about five to six feet from the tail, you won’t need to reach out on deck for the tail when preparing to come about.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 211)

Boom Vang & Preventer

• …using a line to hold the boom out and down when sailing downwind; prevents and vangs (also called kickers) have been with us for a long time…a boom vang led permanently to the aft face of the mast that does not require adjustment when the main sheet is trimmed or eased. Called the “centerline vang” because it is led permanently to the boat’s centerline, this vang can be a tackle or a rigid rod adjusted by either tackle or a hydraulic pump. Of the two, the tackle is preferred because it has some built in elasticity and is less complicated. The centerline vang has several special features. First, it imposes large bending and compressive loads on the boom, so the gooseneck must be very strong; Second, it does not hold the boom outboard, so a preventer should be rigged when running and reaching. A good preventer is made of relatively light, stretchy nylon line led from the foredeck to the end of the boom so that if and when the boat rolls the boom heavily in the water, the boom can come inboard; this relieves some of the load on it. One valuable safety feature is to make sure that the crew can let off the vang and preventer from near the center of the cockpit. Another is to make sure that the vang has some built-in shock absorber to minimize the effects of the load that occurs when the boat is jibed in heavy winds…if there is no give in the vang something may break – it could be the vang, the headboard, or even the boom. A block-and-tackle vang has some automatic give because it contains rope…  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 184)
• If you don’t have a totally reliable double-acting vang to keep the boom up, you must carry a wire topping lift on the main boom of any boat…The only seamanlike arrangement is to secure one end to the masthead (using a toggle or a shackle to allow free movement) and attach the other end to the end of the boom with a short tackle. In the main part, use plastic-coated 7×19 wire rope, in the tackle, use nylon line so there is some shock absorber when the sheet is trimmed and the tackle is not eased out (and that will occur frequently)…  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 184)
• See image of a boom vang in Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 185
• The purposes of boom vangs and preventers are two-fold: a) to flatten the sail and remove twist b) to prevent jibing. Unless boom vangs are led to the boat’s rail, they won’t prevent a jibe when the mainsail is set aback. Attaching the boom vang at the base of the mast is most useful when sailing to windward, but it also interferes with stowing a dingy on deck.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 212)
• A rigid vang is well worth having – it eliminates the need for both a topping lift and a boom gallows.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 74)

Chafe

• …the leech line is vulnerable to chafe where it passes through the leech cringle. The problem arises because the reefing line is generally led back to a sheave on the end of the boo, which results in a run of several feet from the cringle to the sheave. As the sail works, the changing load causes the cringle to move minimally from side to side, chafing the reefing line. Chafe can be virtually eliminated…by positioning a cheek block on the side of the boom just aft of the reefed position of the cringle; the reefing line is led from there to the sheave on the back of the boom and so forward This results in the cringle being trapped in such a way that eliminates side-to-side movement, thereby eliminating chafe. However, it is not easy to establish a fairlead from a block on the side of a boom to the sheaves at the end of it on the typical aluminum boom with internal reefing lines….If this block is not used, it is generally necessary to live with the chafe.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 71)
• Focus on protecting against chafe to protect running rigging.
• To minimize chafing, it is extremely important to keep the topping lift clear of the mainsail.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 184)
• With internally led halyards has come abrasion from sharp edges on built-in sheaves and from line-against-line friction inside the mast. If there is chafing on a spinnaker halyard, it often occurs where the halyard crosses the headstay if a crane has not been rigged to hold the block above the stay. Any sign of deterioration in halyards or reefing lines should lead…to replacement and to a careful inspection of the sheaves and the routing inside and outside the spar.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 180)

Halyard

• …high-strength/low-stretch rope is….very desirable alternative to wire in halyards, and we strongly recommend using it there in place of flexibly 7×19 stainless-steel or galvanized wire rope.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 175)
• In sailing, a halyard or hallyard is a line (rope) that is used to hoist a sail, a flag or a yard. The term halyard comes from the phrase, ‘to haul yards’. Halyards, like most other parts of the running rigging, were classically made of natural fibre like manila or hemp.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halyard)
• One trend in deck layout that has been toward leading all halyards aft from the mast to winches near the cockpit…for shorthanded cruising it allows a single crew member in the cockpit to handle the halyards and sheets in one place…there are disadvantages. First, it clutters up the deck with halyards and winches. Second, it fills the cockpit with line. Third, the turning blocks as the base of the mast increase friction on the halyards; if the halyard leads straight down to a winch on the mast, one person can easily haul it up hand over hand part or most of the way before grinding up the remainder with a winch. A fourth (a major problem for shorthanded crews, it moves the crew member far from the foredeck and the problems that often occur there when sails are hoisted or doused.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 176)
• …rigging internal halyards. From the sheave down almost to the winch, the halyard is led inside the mast. This arrangement has the major advantages of cutting windage, nighttime slatting, and the changes of an external wrap by one-half, but unless the halyards are led properly inside the spar there may be a foul-up. It’s a good idea to have the sparmaker make a clear stretch showing how internal lines should be led to clear each other and fittings, such as spreaders, tangs and fastening. The exit for an internal halyard should provide a fair lead to the winch or the turning block…it’s sufficient to lead them out through a simple oval slot. In order to strengthen the mast, all exists should be kept well clear of both partners and of eachother.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 176)
• A major concern with wire halyards is that, when the sails are raised, there must be enough wire available to take at least three turns on the winches; otherwise the wire-to-rope splice (which is relatively weak) will be forced to take much of the load. This means that main halyards must have plenty of extra wire so that turns can be taken when the mainsail is at full hoist, you;ll have a problem finding a place for awkward coils of that extra wire. Spinnakers are best set on braided Dacron rope halyards led through large blocks hung on struts on the forward side of the mast that are called “cranes”. The rope offers some give under the enormous shock load of a collapsing spinnaker, and the cranes keep the halyards well clear of the headstay.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 178)
• Because the luffs of the jibs in the average inventory are usually of different lengths, getting a minimum of three turns on wire jib halyard on the winch can be a problem as you run through the headsail inventory  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 180)
• Another good reason for rope…is that when the boat is moored, rope does not clatter against the mast an chip away at the paint.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 180)
• A common problem with rope halyards and sheets (especially braided ones) is that they kink badly during frequent coiling. To get these kinks out, drag the halyard or the rope tail overboard behind the boat when you’re sailing fast.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 181)
• There should be a backup halyard ready for use. It’s a good idea to have at least a spare main halyard sheave and a block for an external-jib / spinnaker halyard. You needn’t rig permanent backup halyards: simply run messengers and be sure to carry a spare halyard for each sheave in your sail locker. That way, the backup can be rigged without having to go aloft.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 181)
• It is most important that mast fittings – especially spreaders and shroud tangs – be arranged so that internal halyards can be easily replaced…a removable plate should be installed close to each main obstruction so that the proper routing of halyards can be checked visually.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 182)
• For best performance, one halyard that must be hoisted to a point and stay there is the main halyard, whose shackle not be allowed to slip below the black band (except, of course, in light air and when reefed). An excellent way to to make sure that the mainsail is always at full hoist is to rig a gauge wire.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 182)
• …the combination of stretchy luff and masthead foretriangle can lead to pulling the jib and main halyard shackles into the sheaves, which damages both the sheave and the halyard. So that you’ll know the maximum hoist has been reached, it’s good practice to put marks on the halyards to compare against a gauge on the mast. Don’t use tape to make marks, it will slip. Rope can be marked with an indelible pen. A wire rope halyard is best marked with a length of single-strand copper bell wire tucked through alternate strands in the wire halyard.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 195)
• An excellent way to prevent overhoisting the mainsail or mizzen is to rig and use a luff gauge wire. This is a light stainless-steel wire running from the forward corner of the headboard down through the luff seam, exiting the sail above the tack to terminate in an eye, which is attached to the tack with some shock cord. When the sail is hoisted to he black band, about 1 foot of wire should be exposed, with its end next to a preestablished reference mark on the mast. If this sail is overhoisted, the wire end will be above the mark, if underhoisted, it will be below the mark…Make these marks carefully; one that is located inaccurately or that slides…is worse than no mark at all…it’s usually safer to haul somebody up the mast on a spare halyard when the sails are raise and have hm or her call down when the mainsail headboard is right at the black band or the jib halyard shackle is just short of the sheave. While you’re at it, tie in the reefs and mark the main halyard for each reef.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 195)
• See image of luff gauge wire in Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 195
• All-rope halyards are recommended by many cruising people who feel totally opposed to wire halyards…  (From a Bare Hull, p. 378)
• All rope halyards used in conjunction with blocks shackled to the masthead, or masthead sheaves, are the epitome of simplicity. They are the easiest to replace of a halyard breaks. Internal halyards, in controst, reduce noise and windage, but are more difficult to fish through the spar and exit hole.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 211)
• Each system [internal vs. external, etc.] has it’s own virtues and vices, but simplicity and ease of repair or replacement are worthy considerations.   (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 211)
• Ironically, the lowest stretch halyard material remains wire despite the movement away from wire halyard in favor of low-stretch rope. Part of the reason for this is that wire can be less than gentle on a mast. It also cannot be handled by hand, so either a reel winch or a rope tail is required In light of the realities of low-stretch ropes, wire halyards still have much to recommend them.  (This Old Boat, p. 140)
• Though it’s adjusted infrequently on cruising boats flying modern, low-stretch synthetic sails, the outhaul does deserve attention. it should be strong and its tackle should be both accessible and readily adjustable in moderate to fresh winds, when pulling the clew out can considerable flatten the sail. From time to time, check that the outhaul wire leading from the end of the boom is not fatiguing where it runs over the block   (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 185)

Line

• For sheets and halyards – best combination often is Dacron in cord, braided arrangement. Here, the main body of the rope is a core made up of low-stretch longitudinal fibers. The core is surrounded by a braided cover that keeps the rope from twisting when under load.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 175)
• ..for docking lines, anchor rodes, or other cables where chafing occurs…is old-fashioned three stranded nylon, which resists chafing better than braid…since it is more elastic than Dacron, nylon suffers minimum damage from shock loading, which is typical when anchoring or docking.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 175)
• …best type of rope for sheets and most halyards in cruising boats is one called Gleistein Cup sheet, a rope that was developed in Germany and is marketed by Sampson. Its low stretch makes it a desirable substitute for Dacron, and unlike Kevlar it does not demand extra-large sheeves. Compared with wire, Cup Sheet is both more resistant to fatigue and easier to handle….no need for the difficult and expensive wire-to-rope splice….only place where Cup Sheet is not desirable is in the spinnaker halyard, where some stretch is worth having in order to absorb heavy shocks. The best material for halyard is braided Dacron, which stretches just enough to be a good shock absorber.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 176)
• The diameter of any rope is dictated by the expected maximum loading that the line will face.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 176)
• For sheets, buy double-braid polyester. period. For rope halyards, especially for hank-on sails, you might want to spend a few cents more per foot for parallel-core polyster. Parallel-core line feels stiff and is a pain to splice, but if you are seeing scallops in your sails at the luff when the wid pipes up, you need the lower stretch of parallel-core.  (This Old Boat, p. 140)
• Spinnakers are best set on braided Dacron rope halyards led through large blocks hung on struts on the forward side of the mast that are called “cranes”. The rope offers some give under the enormous shock load of a collapsing spinnaker, and the cranes keep the halyards well clear of the headstay.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 178)

Reefing

• Light braided nylon messengers should be rigged through the leech cringles so that at least two relatively deep reefs can be tied in without having to lower the mainsail to lead the reefing lines.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 185 – 6)
• Reefing lines take a heavy strain in rough weather, and chafing is a constant threat. An important aid in performing preventative maintenance is a large opening at each end of the boom to allow you to see what is going inside and to facilitate reeving reefing lines using a “snake”. This is a length of 1×19 stainless steel wire that is about 1’ longer than the boom, with a tight serving on each end and a small, neat eye on one end.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 185 – 6)
• A cruising mainsail should have two reefs, with each reef equal to about 25 percent of the sail’s total area. With the second reef tied in, the mainsail area is halved. The next step wold be to set the storm trysail, whose area should be about one-half that of the double-reefed mainsail, or about 25% that of the entire mainsail…cut the mainsail’s luff curve fairly straight so that extreme mast bend is not needed to obtain an efficient shape. The roach should be moderate, less than on a racing mainsail, in order to reduce loading on the battens.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 198)
• Perhaps no other alteration to your sails as important as the sewing of reef points. Whether you use roller reefing or slab (jiffy) reefing it is important to achieve a flat set on the main. The ability to reef down in a blow is vital. Heel is reduced, speed is seldom lost (and actually may be increased if the boat excels at lower angles of heel), and the crew will certainly feel safer.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat)
• [Slab (Jiffy) Reefing] utilizes either a traditional sail with short battens or a fully battened main. I like the economy, simplicity and reliability of this approach.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 67)
• Reefing can be done from the cockpit or by going forward to the mast. It is especially easy if the boat has rigid vang so that there is no need to set up and take of a topping lift when reefing. Slab reefing from the cockpit often utilizes a single reefing line that is run through a reef cringle (a ring sewn or pressed into the sail) on the leech (aft edge) of the sail and is then led forward to another cringle in the luff, and then back to the cockpit. To reef, the mainsheet and vang are eased and the topping lift set up (if needed to support the boom), the halyard is ease, and the reefing line is cranked in, pulling down both the leech and the luff of the sail. The halyard is re-tensioned, the topping lift let off (if set) and the vang tensioned…Most often, tying in a reef is actually faster with a single line system. When the reef is no longer needed, it is easier to shake out.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 67)
• Personally, I prefer to keep the necessary lines out of the cockpit altogether, carrying out the entire operation from the base of the mast – which, although frequently wet, is a reasonably secure location. This requires the halyard winch to be at the mast and the halyard to be stowed there. The reefing lines are run through line jammers on the base of the boom to a winch low down on the mast. They are stowed on the boom.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 67)
• Reefing from the mast enables a reefing hook (horn) on the boom to be used in place of the luff downhaul. This gets rid of one line and a chafe point. When I’m all done, I’m in the right place to inspect the reef and the set of the sail, and to put in an added chafe-prevention line through the leech cringle if the reef is likely to be left in for any length of time….it is often difficult to get the cringle over the hook and to keep it there while re-tensioning the halyard. Furthermore, if it’s done incorrectly, there is a risk of tearing the sail. A much better approach is to place a length of heavy webbing through the cringle, and to sew a couple of rings to each end of it so that one hangs down on either side of the sail. it is then simplicity itself to pull one of these floppy rings over the hook (as long as it is possible to get the ring over the hook without having to remove any of the bottom sail slides from the mast track; it’s hard to believe, but there are some boats on which it is necessary to remove the lower sail slides in order to reef).  (Cruising Handbook, p. 69)
• If more than one reef is needed at any time, all should be tied in properly, rather than simply going straight to the second or third. This way, there is less likelihood of lines tangling, and the reefs can be shaken out one at a time when the wind eases.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 71)
• …the cringle may be difficult to reach over a biminini or dodger, or out over the water if the boom is at all eased…  (Cruising Handbook, p. 71)
• Traditionally, after a main is reefed, a series of reef points have been tied in to gather up the reefed portion of the sail (the bunt) and prevent it from fapping around. This is now considered to be bad practice. If the leech line chafes through, a tremendous load – for which it is not designed – is transferred to the reef point ahead of the leech cringle, very often tearing the sail. The next reefing point then takes up the load and tears, and so on. We never tie in the reefing points and have never found the loose bunt of sail to be a problem.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 72)
• Many cruising mains have three sets of reef points, which result in a number of reefing lines and the potential for considerable confusion. Furthermore, the third reef is only used in extreme conditions. With the reef in place, the leech of the sail will now be well forward on the boom, while the mainsheet will frequently exert its usual pressure well aft on the boom, which can result in a bent boom. If the conditions that require a third reef are anticipated, it is preferable to add a separate sail track to the mast and to have a trysail onboard. The track should come down close to the deck so that the sail can come down close to the deck so that the sail can be bent on (attached to its track) in anticipation of rough conditions and then kept tidily stowed in its bag. The track should be as long as is needed rather than feeding into a gate on the mainsail track, which is likely to lead to snafus at the most inopportune times.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 72)
• Regardless of how slab reefing is set up, what makes no sense at all for sailing short-handed is to have the halyard on the mast and the reefing lines in the cockpit, or else the halyard and leech reefing lines lead to the cockpit but with a reefing hook on the boom…If it is necessary to go forward to release the halyard or to get the luff of the sail over the reefing hook, what’s the point of running the other lines aft? Specifially, having hte lines aft but still using a reefing hook is simply absurd. Whoever is reefing the sail has to release the halyard, go forwad to get the luff onto the hook, and then return the cockpit to crank up the halyard and the leech line – by this time, the luff has probably come off the hook! In practice, two people are needed to reef: one to hold the luff on the hook and the other to work the lines.
• …the reefing line needs to be fed onto the [roller furlor] drum at right angles through a fairlead. If this is not done, the line is likely to pile up at either the top of the bottom of the drum and then jam. To avoid loose wraps and snarls, tension is required when rolling in and pulling out the line. At times, specifically when the sail is partially reefed in heavy weather, this line is under some serious loads. The blocks used to lead it aft, as well as their mounting bases, must be up to the task.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 65)

Reefing – Lazy Jacks

• One of the best ways to control sails being lowered is by way of lazy jacks. these lines are led from the boom to a point on the mast; they run on both sides of the sail so when it is lowered it naturally flakes on top of the boom and doesn’t tumble down over the deck. As you may want to control their tension, they should be led to a single line – perhaps to the topping lift – that runs through a block on the mast and down to a cleat. The other lines can be run under the boom or terminated to strap eyes screwed into the boom. The number of lines depends on the sail.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 213)
• …many people still use the traditional, inexpensive, and very seamanlike system of lazyjacks. These are light lines running from aloft on the mast to two or three spots on the boom. When the sail is dropped it is automatically contained in the bights of the lines and so kept off the deck and out of the crew’s way until they have time to do a proper furl.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts)
• Lazyjack keep the loose sail from falling off the boom onto the deck. The sail then has to be tidied up and strapped to the boom with a series of sail ties before putting on a cover. Depending on the height of the boom off the deck and boom’s accesibility, this may be easy or something of a chore.

Sheets

• The closer to the mast the mainsheet is attached to the boom, the more power is required to trim the main. Mainsheets can be attached to the deck anywhere from a traveler over the main companionway hatch to the bridge deck, to a traveler mounted on a beam across the cockpit, to a traveler thru-bolted to the afterdeck and attached to a boom bail or swiveling tang at the end of the boom. The more power required to trim the mainsail, the more blocks are required to provide the necessary purchase power, and the greater the likelihood of needing a winch for assistance.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 208)
• An intriguing variation of this arrangement is to rig two independent mainsheet tackles, one to port and one to starboard….Not only does this system obviate the clutter of a vang at the mast base, which often interferes with dinghy stowage, it also eliminates uncontrolled jibes.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 210)
• See image 10-26 of twin mainsheet arrangement from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 210
• …the most seamanlike jib system for cruising is the traditional bronze sailhank hooked over a rod or 1×19 wire headstay. Bronze is the best material for a hank because, being relatively soft, it will not damage the stay on which it is used. When dousing the sail with this system, just let go of the halyard and sheet The sail should drop at least halfway on its own. The clew may drag in the water, but because the sail is attached all up and down the luff, as long as the sheets are well eased it will not catch water like a sea anchor.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 197)
• Snap shackles should not be used to attach the sheets to the clew. When the boat is headed up or in irons, the flapping of the sail makes the shackle a dancing murder weapon. Better to tie bowlines in the sheets; they won’t let go, won’t hurt your noggin and are easily untied. If each sail has its own set of sheets permanently tied on the business of changing sails is simplified, especially when stitching to very light or heavy sails with correspondingly different diameter sheets.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 210)

Traveler

• ….problem with moving….mainsheet traveler forward is that it puts the sheet attachment point somewhere in the middle of the boom, while most of the upward load is concentrated toward the end of the boom (where the leech of the sail is attached). This can result in a bent boom. The way to spread the loads is with four- or six-part tackle, with two or three attachment points spread out along the boom. It results in a very long main sheet, but there’s not much that can be done about that.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 81 – 2)
• The traveler is used to change the angle of attack of the sail. Like the wings of an airplane the angle of attack dictates the amount of lift generated by the wind flowing over the airfoil shaped wing. The angle at which the sail is set against the apparent wind determines the amount of energy the sail will generate. By decreasing the angle of attack the sail is de-powered and becomes less efficient, or in other words the sailboat will go slower. A sailboat without a traveler has a constant angle of attack which can only be adjusted by the mainsheet. Using the mainsheet to adjust the angle of attack will also change the twist and draft of the sail or in other words the airfoil shape of the sail. The distortion is because the mainsheet will pull down on the boom or let the boom raise if you let out the mainsheet, changing the airfoil shape of the sail. The traveler adjusts the angle of attack without changing the airfoil shape of the sail, it only changes the angle in which the wind is blowing over the sail. You can also change the amount of energy the sail will generate by changing the airfoil shape of the sail. The sails of a sailboat are like the wings on an airplane. Changing the aerodynamic airfoil shape of the sail by flattening the sail and making it less like the curved shape of an airplane’s wing will reduce the amount of lift or forward motion generated by the wind over the sail. Sailing is using the wind to generate forward motion by adjusting the shape of the sails, the angle of attack the wind is blowing over the sails and the direct the sailboat is heading in. (http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/archive/index.php/t-50253.html)
• Travelers give better control of the mainsail’s shape and are standard fare on racers. The cruiser can obtain satisfactory sail shape through using vangs and preventers, and so can dispense with the mainsheet traveler.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 208)

Questions

+ How will I layout the lines to the cockpit? Will most lines come directly to the cockpit?
-> There are actually just 3 lines coming into the cockpit from the mast – 2 for slab reefing & 1 for the mainsheet halyard. All the other lines will come around the side from forward. All lines will come to the cockpit accept for the headsail halyards which are raised once and forgotten.

->  As of 3/12/12, I believe I will be reefing and raising the halyard from the mast to alleviate cockpit line clutter.  By reefing at the mast, I also gain the function of a reefing hook, which eliminates some chafe.

+ Identify all running rigging lines by name & list their size and estimated length:
-> On 3/24/11, I looked at the running rigging article on wikipedia and generated a list of all possible running rigging for a “modern, fore-and-aft rigged sailboat or yacht”. Here is that list:

• Barber haulers
• Boom vangs
• Cunninghams
• Downhauls (IMAG0978.jpg)
• Guys
• Halyards
• Outhauls
• Sheets
• Topping lifts

With that list complete, I can now compare my recent understanding of the rig of my boat and make a list of what I will actually be using. That list as follows:

• Halyard – This line is used to raise a sail and can also be used to control the luff tension. I will have 3 of these.
• Downhaul – This line is used to pull down a sail (as opposed to a halyard, which pulls a sail up) and can also be used to adjust the luff of a sail In my sailboat, I will have 3 downhauls: 1 for the mainsheet, and 2 for each roller furler sail forward.
• Outhaul – This line controls the foot tension of a boom-footed sail. I will have 1 of these on my boat to control the mainsail.
• Sheets – controls the foot tension of loose-footed sails, angle of attack with respect to the apparent wind and or amount of leech “twist” near the head of the sail. I will have
• Topping Lift – This line holds the boom aloft.

I think I’m going to do some do some more research about all of this before I can mark it as complete.

-> On 4/3/11, I talked to Eric at some length about this. Here are the notes from our discussion:

• Downhaul – rollers furlers don’t require a downhaul as the sail runs in a groove (that’s just for hanked on sails). To take it down, you release the halyard and feed it out of the groove. Downhaul is strictly to control sail coming down so you can control it on deck and since I probably will very rarely change my headsails (as both are on roller furlers) it’s not needed for my rig. The mainsail will come down pretty quickly on it’s own and as I am rigging lazy jacks, I don’t need those lines either.
• Halyard – Upward tensioning is done by halyard. There is never any down tensioning as it’s fixed on bottom (even when reefed) and tension by pulling up.
• Outhaul – The outhaul is used only on boom footed sails. if there is no boom, theres no outhaul (that would be a “free footed” sail). You use the outhaul line to tension the foot of the boom. Think of it as a horizontal halyard for the boom – how else do you maintain tension? You can use it tweak the shape of the mainsail. It’s just on the boom, through a couple pulleys’ that is cleated on the boom. It’s not a very big line.
• Headsail Sheets – These sails (as they have no boom) are tensioned by pulling the sheet tighter.
• Barber Hauler – way of shaping headsail to run out to bulwark and back. I won’t need one.
• Cunningham – this is just a hook at the base of the mast at the gooseneck. You won’t run the line anywhere. Don’t mess w/ it very much. It can be a hook or a line – it depends how I set it up. Could feasibly bring back to cockpit as part of reefing system. This is part of slab reefing
• Slab Reefing – one can slab reef by marking the halyard where first reef is, ease halyard, then tighten reefing line. Each reefing point has it’s own line, 2 points mean 2 lines. Reefing lines can be changed easily w/ reinforced grommets.
• Gooseneck – The gooseneck is the hinge where the boom attaches to the mast.
• Guys – typically for spinnaker (especially symmetrical spinnaker). The roller furlor obviates this.

So, after all that, we were able to define the following lines:

Cabin Top:

• Main halyard (1 Line) – bring back to cockpit, will use quite often.
• Mainsail Reefing (2 Lines) – will probably have 2 reef points, thus 2 slab reefing lines

Cockpit:

• Mainsheet (2 lines) – mounted on the lazarette and doesn’t have to get routed anywhere
• Roller Furler Drum (2 Lines) – brought back to cockpit (not on deck, back around main winches) 1/4″ or 5/16″ (just for hands sake – not strength)
• Headsail Sheets (4 Lines) – Each roller furler has

Forward:

• Headsail Halyards (2 Lines) – Don’t need to bring back to cockpit. Once roller furlors are up they are up, unless I’m changing out but that’s something I’ll do rarely. Those just go to base of mast and left there.

With that understood, I can mark this highly important question marked complete! Hooh-rayy. I’ve also drawn the basic idea of this on page 65 of the 2nd Notebook and I extended some of my questions about this set-up to that question.

->  As of 3/12/12, I believe I will do away with the ‘Cabin Top’ lines I mentioned above.

+ How will I rig the storm forestaysail?
-> This is suggested so the sail can be brought closer to the mast, but will I need up having an inner forestay?

-> It has an internal wire leading edge. Built into the sail, a wire with two eyes on each end (along the luff). Shackled onto forestay chainplate and hooked up to halyard. That’s if I have roller furling. It is often rigged to an inner forestay, however at this time (3/30/11) I am fairly certain this will not be part of my planned rig.

Boom Vang

+ Will I use a boom vang?
-> This question relies heavily on where the dinghy will be stowed. It also is affected by the choice for my the (mainsheet? boom?) blocks as well as if I really care about having a topping lift.

-> As of 3/17/11, I have decided that the dinghy I will build will likely have to be stowed on the fore-deck when in transit. The reasons for this are explained in the “Dinghy” document, so I won’t go into them here. What this means is I will have the space for a boom vang which will open up a nice possibility for rigging. Here are the questions I have:

• Does a boom vang replace the need for a traveler? How about the “end of boom” blocks?
• What’s the different between a travelers affect on the sails and a boom vangs?
• Would a boom vang + “end of boom” blocks be best?
• Do I need a traveler?

-> As of 3/23/11, I believe I will not use a boom vang. A boom vang is a line system on a sailboat used to exert downward force on the boom and thus control the shape of the sail. So, to replace this need I will have a a lines attached to the bulwarks can work to pull the boom down as needed. I think I just want to verify that with Eric one more time so I’m 100% clear.

-> On 3/24/11 I spoke to Eric about this and he said that it’s not the lines attached to the bulwarks that would do this, the mainsheet at the end of the boom would pull the mast down. Basically, at this time my plan is to have a mainsheet mounted at the end of the boom, which will do away with the boom vang.

+ How will I create the boom vang? Does having a boom vang certainly mean that I won’t use a topping lift?
-> See ‘Boom’ section of the ‘Mast System‘ project page for some info, however it’s only if I use a rigid boom vang w/ a spring loaded telescopic tube which can hold a boom up and and do not require a topping lift, however they are much heavier.

Halyard

+ What size, type and length should my halyards be?
-> As of 3/22, I’ve already determined the type = dacron halyards.

-> I spoke to Eric about this on 3/24/11, he suggested I use Sta-set or Sta-SetX (which I later read was better than plain double braid and only a little more expensive). Eric said it’s ot very expensive and holds up well. He will use 3/8″, but it’s not an issue of strength, but more an issue of how easy it is to grip. In fact, 3/8″ is good for both sheets and halyards. Certainly not anything more than 7/16″. I did some other reading and found this to be the common solution as well. As far as length, I will buy by the spool so it’s not something I really need to think about at this time – once I’m doing the rigging I will cut line to fit.

+ Do I need a different halyard for each sail?
-> …this system [multiple halyards] is not good one for cruisers. This is partially due to the eas of wrapping halyards around themselves and the headstay. But the main objection to this system is that, with it, there usually is too much chafing on the wing halyards; a windward halyard carrying the spinaker inevitably rubs over the headstay.

-> Yes. Two main halyard and at least two halyards up front. One halyard has the roller furlor, and the other is for an extra headsail. Then lower on the mast, put on a topping lift which is a small halyard. Maybe also flag halyard off spreaders. .

+ Will I use internal halyards? Any big disadvantages for not having an internal halyard? If so, how to arrange?
-> Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts seems to think this is a good idea (see research Halyard section).

-> There is something to say about things being simple and easy repair (as mentioned in the “Halyards” section). But the added windage and slapping of external halyards also isn’t too great.

-> Paul Van Dyk said that I will need to design a new mast head and then I can do that. It is a good idea.

+ How hard is it to repair internal halyards while underway or in emergency situations?
-> Take a leader line, a piece of nylon. Tie it to one end to pull it. If the line has fallen all the way you have to go up the mast. However, adding a second internal halyard should be enough insurance.

+ Wire or rope halyards?
-> Rope is easiest on hands, and mast, but low-stretch rope has some problems (not sure which exactly..) and so that’s why wire still is pretty good (because it is very low-stretch). Bad part about wire is it is semi-hard to splice with rope (easy according to Casey) and can hurt the mast. However, I can probably run a special tube for the wire inside the mast…

-> For my type or rig, wire is overkill. If hoisting 80 feet of mast, there is a foot of slack. Just don’t skimp on the line. The strongest possible, pre-stretched. Just go with dacron halyards.

+ Will I run the halyard to the cockpit?
-> Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts seems to think it’s better to have it on deck, so problems with hoisting can be dealt with right there. However, see “Winch” section for ideas how to put a single winch on the cabin top.

-> My Dad suggested that especially when river sailing, it is important to drop the sail as quickly as possible. Plus if I use this with a good mast control system (lazy jacks or something similar) the sail can stay up there for a moment in good conditions. So, the answer is yes.

->  As of 3/12/12, I do not plan to run a halyard to the cockpit so as to reduce cabintop clutter.  We’ll see how this plan evolves towards maturation, so check back on this page for more infromation.

Line

+ Should I have lightweight lines for lightwind sailing?
-> On 4/3/11 I talked to Eric about this and he said that if I’m going to have lightwind sheets they will be used for the spinnaker. On a small boat like mine it won’t make too-too much of a difference though.

+ Should I have heavier duty lines for storm sheets?
-> On 4/3 Eric said 3/8″ strength should be more than adequate for whatever weather I go into.

+What type of line for running rigging?
-> Dacron (pre-stretched). The other option is nylon, but it’s really only used anything that needs shock absorption (anchor does, docklines and dinghy painters).

-> Casey says that double-braid polyester for sheets. Period.

Reefing

+ How will I sew in heavy webbing on the cringle with rings to attach to the hook?
-> It’s not just the hook that will use these.

-> [Continue researching/thinking/considering....]

+ Will I reef from the mast or the cockpit?
-> Calder seems to suggest that it is best done from the mast since it reduces lines in the cockpit, can usually be done faster than from within the cockpit and also allows quick access to the reefing hook (horn).

-> On 4/4/22 I tried to add wanted to add some more information about reefing as there has been some new developments in my understanding of how I will reef. I have decided that I will have slab reefing which can be controlled from the cockpit. There will be 2 reef points with lines running back to the cockpit. See IMAG1137.jpg in the “Spars & Rigging” media research file for a lot of good information on this topic.

+ How many reef points?
-> Calder seems to suggest 2 max. If a third is needed, a trysail should be kept instead and fed into a track (close to the deck) on the main mast.

+ How will I attach the reefing hook (horn)?
-> They are part of the boom, however my boom doesn’t not have one rigged at this time. I have to buy them. However, Paul Van Dyk says that they are not worthwhile and it’s easier to rig them to one line. So I don’t have to add them.

+ Where will my reef points be in the sail?
-> First reef is based 100% on main triangle. The second triangle is measured from the smaller, “new” triangle created by 15% of the first reefed, which is less than 50% of total. Based on those %’s on the size of my mainsail.

+ How will I install reefing in the sails?
-> Yes, I will install 2, but I’m not sure how this is done. I will have to research this.

-> Just a couple of eyes and enforcements on both sides of the sail. Like a triple layer at the clue and at the leech.

Reefing – Lazy Jacks

+ How, exactly, do I rig a lazyjack?
-> Measure length of boom, divide by 3. So, there is an aft, mid and mid forward. The small mast like mine doesn’t need so many as I have seen in the drawings. I will also rig it to be hauled in via the cockpit.

-> For more information on how to rig this (4/4), see IMAG1068.jpg in the “Spars & Rigging” media research file.

+ Will I have a topping lift or will the boom stay up by the lazy jacks?
-> Lazy jacks will raise and lower the boom. So you don’t need a topping lift. Before you lower your sail, point boat into wind, get boom midship, you tighten your lazy jacks, let down your main halyard and sail ties and the main is stowed.

-> On 3/23/11, I confirmed with Eric (and priorly with Paul) that a topping lift can be done away with if lazy jacks are used.

+ How will the lazy jacks be constructed?
-> Padeye on the mast on each side, down to a block on the end of the boom and a cleat on the end of the boom. For a great diagram how to put everything together, see Fig. 10-32 from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat p. 213)

Roller Furling

+ How do I know if my roller furlor is rated for offshore use or not? How does my roller furlor rate? Does it need replacement?
-> It is a CDI (Cruising Design Inc.) Flexible Furlor – Model FF 4/6. I’m not sure if this is the same model as they list on their website, but here’s the stats:

* The ball bearing is not required, but if there is a consistent heavy load or desire easiest possible furling, the ball bearing is a good option and may be added as retrofit.

Here are some other facts from the website:

• Simplicity – has 1/8 the # of parts of competitor systems
• Luff Extrusion – One piece, UV stabilized PVC luff extrushion – this luff extrusion is as stiff in torsion as a metal system and yet can bend without kinking (unlike metal systems). There are no joints to fail and is designed to be winched.
• Built in Halyard – eliminating troublesome halyard swivels and halyard wrap, maximizing reliability
• Reliable Furling – our durable one-piece urethane furling drum and stainless teel drum keeps the furling line in place.
• Fail safe bearings – because of the built in halyard, our rugged bearings see only a fraction of the load carried by other systems. Use 1/2″ torlon balls which roll over dirt easier and need less maintenance than 1/4″ balls you find in less rugged systems
• Easy Installation – designed to be installed over your existing stay, cutting in half the installation time.
• Low Maintenance – rinse your bearing with a hose every 5 years that’s it. You don’t have to drop sail to rinse the bearing.

So, this seems pretty good. I also did a visual inspection of the furlor, and it looked in pretty good condition. So, based on this reading (which is obviously marketing materials), but also combined with the fact that I already own it, I think this furlor will be fine for my current needs.

+ Will furling drum should have it’s own dedicated winch?
-> Someone from forums said this, however I didn’t realize that was a requirement, is this really true?

-> I spoke to Eric about this on 3/24/11 and he said no. Shouldn’t need a winch to furl it, can just use main winch.

Sheets

+ How will I run the mainsheet lines?
-> I like the idea of the twin mainsheets. It might solve my issues with dinghy stowage and will also stop uncontrolled jibes.

-> On 3/22/11, I I showed Eric the arrangement from Spurr’s boat book which shows the double sheets that is shown in Spurrs. The benefit of having 2 acts as a boom vang and a preventer. He mentioned that the there is a Bristol Channel Cutter down at McCuddy’s marina which has this arrangement I want to look at. Another suggestion he thought was if I used a single line and a preventer and a mainsheet. By using 1 mainsheet placed at the end of the boom gives best mechanical advantage and makes it easier to pull in. It’s also close to steering station.

-> On 3/23/11 I got an e-mail from Johnathan King who is currently cruising with his Bristol 27. His mainsheet is a single line mounted to startboard and he says the “Mainsheet is a pain in the ass. It rubbed on the lifelines (now removed), it blocks the lazarette hatch from opening, and it sheets in only on the starboard side. I plan on changing the setup to a traveler in the cockpit eventually.” My boat used to have a traveler in the cockpit as well. So, I wonder if this is actually a decent idea?

-> I thought that this quote does a great job of answering that:  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 208)

The closer to the mast the mainsheet is attached to the boom, the more power is required to trim the main. Mainsheets can be attached to the deck anywhere from a traveler over the main companionway hatch to the bridge deck, to a traveler mounted on a beam across the cockpit, to a traveler thru-bolted to the afterdeck and attached to a boom bail or swiveling tang at the end of the boom. The more power required to trim the mainsail, the more blocks are required to provide the necessary purchase power, and the greater the likelihood of needing a winch for assistance. 

To paraphrase: further from mast is best, can be attached anywhere. One way I really like (as shown in image IMAG1061.jpg in the “Spars & Rigging” media research file) is this idea from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat (p.210) that reads “An intriguing variation of this arrangement is to rig two independent mainsheet tackles, one to port and one to starboard….Not only does this system obviate the clutter of a vang at the mast base, which often interferes with dinghy stowage, it also eliminates uncontrolled jibes.” Eric had mentioned I could take this same idea and convert it to one line instead of two. But I have a couple questions about that:

• Does it still act as a preventer?
• Where would it mount? Wouldn’t it be best directly in the middle?
• Would the line be “covering” the cockpit when the boom was far out? This is true for all end of boom set-ups and can only be solved by moving the line forward of the cockpit, correct?

-> At this point (4/3/11), I’ve decided to use twin mainsheet blocks off the end of the boom mounted on either side of the lazarette. The best documentation I have of this arrangement can be found in the “Spars & Rigging” media research file. Here’s the thinking why I have decided to go with this mainsheet arrangement:

• No need for preventer
• No need for boom vang
• Gives some push & pull tensioning (I believe).
• Quite simple w/ most leverage at end of boom.
• There are going to be a lot of ropes moving around. I plan to attach rope bags on the wall of each cockpit well.
• If I decide I want to change it, I will probably go to a traveler in the cockpit (which is quite easily modified).

-> After giving it some continuing though, I’ve decided to go with a traveler in the cockpit. I have drawn the construction techniques and basic design starting on page 68 – 69 of the 2nd Notebook and also added the project steps to the cockpit construction section. I have decided to install a traveler for nearly the same reasons I have mentioned above (minus the push & pull bit). What the traveler gains, in my opinion, is less lines and allows the mainsheet to be handled with just one hand (which will be important as a single hander).

+ How will I run the fore-sheet lines?
-> After looking at various boats at the dock on 3/26/11, the lines for the fore-sheets (the jib and genoa) will come back to the cockpit either inside (or maybe outside) of the bulwarks and lead back to the winches in the cockpit. It’s not a requirement to understand which path they will take to come aft exactly, however I know their general route will be hitting a snatch block on the bulwarks or using nylon webbing attached to the bulwark somewhere along the bulwark. Essentially, this is fairly flexible and I’ll make it work once I get there. I think initially I was a little confused as to what lines came back from the cockpit from the foresails and I have listed them below for reference:

• Outhauls (2 total – 1 for each roller furler)
• Jib Sheet (2 total)
• Genoa Sheet (2 total)

+ How long should the mainsheet and fore-sheet lines be?
-> As of 3/24/11 I take this to be my answer: “sheet is long enough for a knot about five to six feet from the tail, you won’t need to reach out on deck for the tail when preparing to come about” (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 211). It would be nice to have an exact number and I may eventually decide to do that, however I imagine I will be buying a spool of rope and will not need to have only a specific amount as I can measure it in the rigging.

Traveler

+ Will I use a traveler? Where will the traveler be mounted if used?
-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that I have a couple choices for boom vangs. A soft boom vang tensions the boom up and down to change the shape of the mainsail and it changes the boom up or down to change the angle of the J of the mainsail. The topping lift line can be played against the boom vang. You can also get a rigid boom vang that pushes the boom up until you tension it down. You can also have a preventer that comes off the middle and it can act as a boom vang as its a block and tackle. If I used the one that came off the bulwark, that can act as a boom vang to tension the sail down. You can use a traveler to add angles to the block, but he says for cruising it’s not as necessary. I think I will end up going another route than a traveler (as I’d already pretty much thought).

-> On 4/4/11 I decided that I will use a traveler in the cockpit. I have answered the reasoning for this in the “How will I run the mainsheet” question and have completed drawings of the arrangement & construction in the 2nd Notebook.

Product List

Downwind Reaching Poles

• Jockey Strut (?)
• Spinnaker Pole
• Whisker Pole

Line & Rope

• 1/4” Double Braided Polyester Line (50′) (for lazy jack vertical line)
• 3/8″ Sta-Set Line (400′) (for halyards (3), main sheet (1) & head sheets (4) – 8 total lines)
• 5/16″ Double Braided Polyester Line (250′) (for roller furler drum (2), slab reefing (2), outhaul (1), lazy jack diagonal (2) – 7 lines total) (?)

Halyard

• Axle Bolt (2) (2 – for halyard sheaves)
• Bushing (2) (2 – for halyard sheaves)
• Cotter pins (2) (2 – for halyard sheaves)
• Fid (to release snap shackles)
• Nuts (2) (2 – for halyard sheaves)
• Oval Slot (3) (for internal halyards)
• Sheaves (2) (for mainsheet & fore-sail halyards)
• Side Plate (2) (2 – for halyard sheaves)
• Snap Shackle – Trigger Type (3) (for halyard attach points)

Reefing

• Lazyjack lines
• Strap eyes (4) (for lazy jack ties into boom)
• Padeyes (2) (on 75% of the way up mast – for lazy jack diagonal line)
• Reefing Hook

Sheets

• Metal slides (for mainsheet)

Links

Boom Vang & Preventer

• Great video on the topic of boom vangs – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C31nGzO54O4

• Turnbuckles, tangs and chainplates should be matched in size with the sire and terminal fittings to which they’re attached. The breaking strength of any fitting should exceed the breaking strength of the wire - up to 2-times as much for blocks and sheaves with wires pulling parallel to themselves. Check the specifications of any fitting you buy for working and ultimate tensile strength.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 205)

Chainplates

• Do not bed deck trim plates with polyurethane. Bedding under the plate adds little if anything to leak prevention, and even the small amount of sealant that squeezes out the slot when you install the dry tri plate over the wet bedding for the chainplate will make later remove of the trim difficult.  (This Old Boat, p. 131)
• A very worthwhile enhancement is raising the opening for the chainplate above the surface of the deck. A rise sufficient to prevent the chainplate opening from sitting under standing or flowing water limits the demands on the sealant and can dramatically reduce the occurrence of deck leaks at the chainplate. You can raise the opening by bonding a block of solid material to the deck over the chainplate slot, but the joint between block and deck is still at deck level. Better yet, grind the surface as for a fiberglass repair, then cast an island from epoxy resin thickened with colloidal silica. Use modeling clay to make the form and the resulting structure is a permanent member of the deck. The opening in the deck must continue up through whatever rise you fabricate. A cast riser will require some shaping. Bed the chainplate as before, installing the trim plate on the top of the riser. Protect exposed epoxy with paint.  (This Old Boat, p. 131)
• Chain-plate loads should be spread by a hull attachment that is as long as possible – a structural bulkhead is ideal.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 98)
• On a New Orleans Marine built Frers 40 ocean racer, the system works like this: The bulkhead is of ¾” plywood that is reinforced on both sides almost in its entirety with multiple layers of unidirectional roving that run well up onto the hull, and the housetop and sides. The laminates on either side are built up as thick as the hull itself. To this monolith they attach the chainplates made of ⅝” thick stainless steel, backed up on either side of the bulkhead by a similarly shaped piece of 3/16” stainless. The plates are bolted to each other through the bulkhead with ten stainless steel bolts ⅝” in diameter.  (From a Bare Hull)
• When installing chainplates, the rigging plans will usually give measurements from the bow to the centerline of the center chainplate. From this point, they’ll give distances to the lower and upper ends of the two lower shroud plates. These measurements are critical for they determine whether your chainplates will line up correctly with the shrouds or not. If they don’t line up, undue strain will be put on one or two bolts.  (From a Bare Hull, p. 325)
• …loads approaching or exceeding a ton can be exerted on the chainplates and structural members. The more inboard the shrouds, the more this load is increased.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 41)
• Chainplates installed through the side of the hull achieve a wider staying base than chainplates located on the side decks or cabin top. It is annoying when walking forward to have to step around shrounds mounted inboard. Outboard chainplate installations can get in the way too, however, if the lower shrouds are angled too low over the side decks.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• See stainless steel chainplate sizes from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 205, Fig 10-19

Clevis Pins, Toggles & Turnbuckles

• Turnbuckles, are the normal gear for tensioning stays….They are best constructed of forged or machined bronze, which provides a good strong grip between the barrels and threads, as well as a soft surface that serves as a self lubricant to facilitate adjustmentt.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 169)
• Stainless steel should be avoided because the close tolerance on threads makes the turnbuckles susceptible to “galling”, or cross-threading, which leads to freeze ups. Navtech has overcome this problem by using a bronze turnbuckle screw threaded into stainless-steel ends. Chromed bronze turnbuckles may look better, but they cost more than similar-size all bronze turnbuckles. Most important, the chroming weakens the critical thread area. If you desire chromed turnbuckles, install the next size larger than the recommended bronze fittings.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 169)
• Besides bronze materials, we urge use of the open-barrel design…which allows you to see if a sufficient amount of thread had been wound up. Because there is no way to inspect the threads in closed-barrel, r tubular turnbuckles, they are most inappropriate.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 169)
• See image from Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 170
• On large turnbuckles, in place of cotter pins you can use machine screws threaded into the cotter-pin holes…some types of turnbuckles have compression lock nuts above and below the barrel. These nuts are most insecure under the inevitable tension and twising and should not be used.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 172)
• Turnbuckles and clevis pins will not unscrew or pop out if you insert cotter pins or wire through barrel and end parts. A few turns through the barrel and end parts. A few turns of sailmakers tape over the barrel and sharp ends of wire and cotter pins will protect sheets from chafe, as well as turnbuckle boots.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 205 – 6)
• Turnbuckles (rigging screws, bottle screws) come in closed and open versions. Open turn buckles seem to be less prone to corrosion and failure. Some turnbuckles are all bronze and some are all chrome-plated bronze, but many today are stainless steel.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 63)
• Galling – …when a stainless steel rigging terminal is screwed into a stainless steel turnbuckle and tensioned, there is a risk of galling (a kind of seizure fairly unique to stainless steel). The cause is usually dirt in the threads, which causes friction. Stainless steel is a very poor conductor of heat; therefore, the heat generated is not dissipated. It rapidly builds up to the point at which the surfaces of the metal break down, destroying the threads. Galling is not reversible: the turnbuckle generally has to be cut off. To avoid galling, it is advisable to use plain or chrome-plated bronze turnbuckles, or stainless steel turnbuckles with bronze thread inserts.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 63)
• It is also absolutely essential that all lower ends, on deck, be fitted with toggles, which provide for angular movement to allow the terminals and turnbuckles to swing and stay aligned with the stays. Without toggles, fatigue and eventually fracture in the wire….Aloft, toggles are required only on the headstay and forestay in order to compensate for the side movement of the stay caused by the jib.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 171)
• Toggles compensate for temporary misalignment, not the permanent misalignment of chain plates and stays (which should be corrected structurally). They should be as short as possible, to minimize eccentric loading and twist, and they should fit snugly on chain plates, with the help of washer or shims of necessary, so that they are centered properly for optimum load distribution. Apply a thin coating of anhydrous lanolin to the pins to keep the toggles from freezing up and becoming misaligned.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 171)
• Toggles should be either forged, machined, or welded. Cast toggles have been proven unreliable.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 171)
• See image from Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 170
• In use, rigging flexes continuously. Without toggles (a kind of universal joint) to absorb the movement, flexing once again leads to work hardening and failure.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 62)

Cotter Pins

• Regardless of which type of standing rigging you use, be sure that each end is drilled out for cotter pins; the hole will also help you determine how much thread has been wound up.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 171)
• See image from p. 17o of Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts
• Cotter pins remain the best all-around fitting for securing all parts of the standing rigging. The only reason many people dislike them is that they don’t know how to rig them properly and they fail. Here’s the right way [see image]  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 171)
• Cotter rings have become popular…if you have a cotter ring, immediately replace it with a cotter pin…rings will distort easily and fall out when subjected to chafing, and…they are impossible to remove or install when the boat is pitching or rolling a seaway  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 172)
• Before you install any cotter pin, round the ends with a file. After the cotter pin is in place, spread the legs about 20 degrees. Unless the pin represents a genuine risk to a sail, do not tape it. Taping encourages corrosion.  (This Old Boat, p. 136)
• Best way to pad the points of cotter-pin legs or other small, sharp objects is to apply a gob of silicone sealant.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 174)

Fasteners

• See ‘Fasteners‘ project page.

Lubrication

• …if the system has movement, you must lubricate it often. However, one piece of gear that must never be lubricated is the set of brake bands used to keep a reel halyard winch from backing off.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 173)
• Best permanent-type lubricant for turnbuckles, clevis pins and many other items is anhyrous lanolin…tthick grease that is available in small tins from most drugstores. Apply it with your fingers or a tongue depressor.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 173)
• Adequate supply of rigging tape…industrial tapes…certainly seem to be adequate or all jobs at a fraction of the cost.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 173 -4)
• The threads of all the turnbuckles should be well lubricated. Old salts around the world recommend anhydrous lanolin for this purpose. More modern salts use Teflon grease. Make sure the turnbuckles are turn the same way, preferably with the right-hand threads downward. Also, lubricate the toggles so they can do what they were designed to do. In fact, you should also lubricate all the clevis pins.  (This Old Boat, p. 136)
• Lubricate turnbuckles with anhydrous lanolin at least annually…it’s a good policy to lubricate all rigging pins with lanolin to facilitate extracting them in case of emergency.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 170)

Mast Step

• Most small and medium-sized aluminum masts are stepped on deck requiring a footing or mast step. The rims of the step should be quite high (3/4” is not too drastic) to keep the mast in step if it has a tendency to jump about in it’s place. If the cabin top is well reinforced with the compression taken care of this motion should never occur.  (From a Bare Hull, p. 362)
• Through the rim should be drilled at least two drain holes to allow any water that has found its way into the mast through the sheaves, rivet holes, etc. to drain off. Salty water will corrode anodized aluminum if the metal is closed off so it cannot air. To prevent interior corrosion whether your mast is a tabernacle or not, it’s a good idea to coat the lower 3 feet of the extrusions interior with either primer paint or a thin layer of heavy grease. Either will protect the mast and extend its life.  (From a Bare Hull, p. 362)
• Bulkheads and vertical floors are the best way to distribute the stresses from ballast weight and mast compression. The mast step must distribute mast compression fore and aft to floors A bulkhead close to the mast is a desirable feature.   (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts)
• With a deck-stepped mast, if a shroud that terminates on deck breaks or is disconnected the whole mast will topple over. A proper seagoing yacht must have her mast stepped through the deck onto a well-engineered mast step that is structurally supported by the keel.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 167)
• A good neoprene mast boot…one of the best developments in yacht construction, a mast boot is a length of inner tubing that is secured tightly onto the mast and deck with a mechanical device – usually a hose clamp to seal off the gap between the mast and partners. The rubber will deteriorate in the sun unless it is shielded with a canvas or Dacron outer boot.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 167)
• An alternative [to mast pulpits] is to thru-bolt foot chalks at strategic spots around the mast to give better footing. A wedge-shaped length of teak cut two inches high will do the job.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 166)
• For the ultimate in strength, the ocean cruising boat should have a keel-stepped mast, because if a shroud or stay lets go, the deck helps to support the mast, hopefully long enough to bring the boat about to another tack and ease the load. In the same situation, the deck stepped mast is already gone. [However] a deck-stepped mast is more likely to come down in one piece (if the cause is broken rigging) and less likely to cause damage tot he deck.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 196)
• …a keel stepped mast can be somewhat lighter than a deck-stepped mast. The keel-stepped mast is also more capable of withstanding the failure of a piece of standing rigging. The deck-stepped mast, however, does not obstruct the accommodation spaces, and there is no big hole in the deck through which water can leak (a common problem).  (Cruising Handbook, p. 58)
• …determining the appropriate extrusion for any boat is a matter for engineers, not the boat owner.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 58)

Rig Type

• The choice in a single-masted, mainsail and jib rigs lies between the sloop and the cutter. There has always been confusion as to their definitions…when we say “sloop” we mean a single-masted sailing yacht with only one stay (the headstay for a single jib. By “cutter” we mean a yacht that can carry two jibs. One jib is set on the headstay, which runs to the stem, and the other is set on a forestay (often called an inner forestay), which runs to the foredeck. The advantage of the sloop is simplicity, with only two sails – a mainsail and a genoa job – and a little standing and running rigging to go wrong. The advantage of the cutter is flexibility and ease of handing – mainsail and two relatively small headsails, a forestaysail and an outer jib.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 161)
• The decision to radically alter a boat’s designed rig should be based on dissatisfaction with specific aspects of the boat’s performance, not some general sense that a different rig is better And you need a high degree of confidence that the new rig will correct the performance problems without introducing new ones. This suggests a level of experience that most casual sailors never reach.  (This Old Boat, p. 112 – 13)
• Why do you want double headsails? They can allow the headsails to be smaller and correspondingly easier to handle. They do provide sail combination possibilities that are not available with a single headsail. And the staysail is regarded as an outstanding heavy weather sail that’s easier on boat and crew alike. But a sail suitable for heavy conditions can not be set on a casually rigged way. Additional sail combination possibilities do not necessarily translate into better performance. And if handling headsail is difficult, better furling gear and more powerful winches will likely be a less expensive option than adding an inner stay, installing inboard tracks, mounting a second pair of sheet winches, buying a new sail, and having the existing sail or sails appropriately recut.  (This Old Boat, p. 131)
• See images from Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 163 – 4

Rig Type – Cutter

• The rig that we favor for the offshore cruising is the double-headsail cutter. Not only are its two relatively small headsails lighter and easier to handle than one large genoa jib, but with the cutter’s high-cut jib topsail there is no big, low-cut sail draped to leeward, threatening to scoop up the bow wave and block the crew’s view to leeward. Another advantage of a high-cut headsail is that it can be easily swung out on a spinnaker pole when running before wind…a problem with the double-headsail rig is that when the boat is being tacked the jib top risks being torn by sail hanks as it sweeps across the luff of the staysail. To protect the sail…sew a protective patch over each staysail hank. These patches fit tightly when the staysail halyard and luff are tight but when the halyard is eased they can be opened.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 198)
• For cruising under the cutter rig, we recommend a small, versatile sail inventory: a proper mainsail, a large light jib topsail, a small heavy jib topsail a forestaysail, a storm trysail, and a storm staysail. With this inventory you can handle just about every condition. For light winds, a large light Dacron reacher-drifter jib will be a good addition. On smaller vessels with ample crew power, a poleless nylon cruising spinnaker – set like a genoa except that it is not hanked to the headstay – can be added to complete the inventory. (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 198)

Rig Type – Sloop

• The inventory for a single-headsail sloop will be smaller than that on a cutter, because there is no provision for a staysail. The largest jib might be about the size of an IOR #2 genoa, but with a higher clew and a shorter luff (to keep the foot out of the water and facilitate lifting the tack in rough weather). If there is a cringle in the leach about 7’ about deck, the sail can be reefed to about the size of a #3 jib simply by moving the jib sheet. When the genoa is reefed, lead the sheet way aft, and lift the tack slightly on a pendant. Tie up the foot of the sail, but be alert to foul ups when changing tacks. to complete the sloops inventory, carry a # 3 jib (perhaps reefable as well) and a small working jib, plus of course storm sails….If you carry a lowcut genoa jib, make sure there is some way to pull the foot out of the bow wave when reaching…install strongly reinforced grommet about ⅓ of the way after of the tack. When spray begins to fly into the sail when you’re reaching, hook the spinnaker topping lift or an unused halyard into the grommet and pull the foot up. Or raise the sail above the deck with a tack pendant equal to at least 5% of the luff length.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 198)
• …all the rigs we have discussed offer a choice between fractional and masthead arrangements for the headstay and jib halyard. In the masthead rig, the headstay runs from the stem all the way to the top of the mast. In the fractional rig, the headstay runs partway up – about 84% of the mast height is a good compromise…the mast head rig was by far the most popular. This has been because, of the two, it is the least complicated, not requiring running backstays (since the permanent backstay counters the headstay.) A more significant reason for its popularity that has been the rating rules for racing have tended to encourage large jibs and small mainsails…  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 161)
• fractional rig is making a comeback…there are several good reasons for carrying it: Ease of rigging – the largest and most powerful sail is the mainsail, not the jib. Therefore, the sails that must be put on and taken off – the jibs -a re much smaller and easier to handle and stow on the fractional-rigged yacht. Ease of handing – when shortening sail, you usually depower the largest sail first, and it is easier to reef the mainsail than to change headsails. Smaller spinnakers – besides smaller jibs, the fractional rig also carries smaller spinnakers than the masthead rig because the hoist is lower. Spinnakers that are relatively low on the mast are easier to control in fresh winds that larger spinnakers set from the masthead. Lower cost – since fewer headsail changes are required, the boat can have a smaller inventory of jibs. The primary disadvantage is that, running backstays must be rigged to keep the headstay relatively straight and the mast in column (not bending in its middle section, which can lead to dismasting).  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 163 – 4)

Rig Type – Scutter

• …Soubrette with her new bowsprit masthead rig….this is not truly a cutter rig but what Island Packet now refers to as a scutter rig. The small job rigged on the original 7/8 rig is not used simultaneously with the masthead bowsprit sail. As explained in the Cruising World letter, the masthead rig is for light air only….I expect the first question for many Triton owners will be “how does Soubrette balance with this new bowsprit masthead rig?” The answer is, beautifully. Naturally there is not much helm in light air, 10 knots plus or minus, but notwithstanding the size of the jib and the bowsprit Soubrette still shows a very slight weather helm around 10 knots. Under 10 knots with the boat sailing nearly straight up, the helm is neutral. At no time have I been able to discern a lee helm.  (http://www.oocities.org/tritonassociation/soubrette/)
• With wind 10 knots or more, except off the wind, Soubrette is sailed as a sloop with a club-footed jib. This rig -is the last stage in the evolution to ultimate convenience and safety as a single hander.In heavy weather, the club-footed jib on the traveler and a reefed main provides the ultimate rig for heavy weather, a favorite of mine and one in which the Triton shines.In lighter weather, under 10 knots, I found we needed more sail and have been delighted with the new masthead bowsprit jib. This rig takes Soubrette to weather in light air, particularly if there is any slop, much better than her former #2 or #1 Genoa. You can see from the 8×10 enclosed photograph what a lovely curve this new jib takes underneath the main.There are other improvements as part of the single-handed rig. All lines and halyards come aft to cockpit. Both headsails are roller reefed. The club-footed jib uses the same line to roll the jib and haul the clew out to the end of the jib boom. As the clew is pulled out the end of the jib boom, it creates a slack which feeds forward around the drum in an endless loop….the varnished mahogany cabin windows, bowsprit and mahogany stern letters have complimented the Triton’s exceptionally good classical looks. I seldom pass another boat under sail without drawing a comment.  (http://www.oocities.org/tritonassociation/soubrette/)
• We sailed with the so-called “Scutter” configuration on KiKi, which features a roller-furled 80% yankee flown off a headstay tacked at the end of the boat’s bow platform, and a roller-furled lapping genoa flown off a second headstay tacked just aft at the stemhead. The idea behind the Scutter rig is simple if unorthodox, and it points to Schulz’s open thinking with regard to manageable offshore sailing. You sail with the main and genoa in light to medium air when you need the drive, reduce the jib and reef as the wind rises, then furl it completely in brisk or heavy going and deploy the working canvas forward. What this does is keep the bow down in windy conditions by moving the center of effort forward, thereby avoiding the tendency to round up. In really wild weather you can furl everything and sail bare-headed or energize a convertible staysail stay at mid-deck and hoist a hank-on spitfire jib. (http://www.bwsailing.com/Boat_Reviews/Archives/BWS_ShannonPilot43_February2002.html)
• The Shannon Scutter rig offers a variation on the cutter/double headsail ketch theme. In 1994 Walt Schulz developed the Scutter (short for sloop/cutter to reflect the combination of the fore triangle plan of a double headsail sloop and the mainsail of a cutter) as an alternative rig for all Shannon models. On a conventional sloop, a 140% genoa cannot be reefed down with a roller furler to much less than 110% and still power the boat. A rolled up genoa loses its shape compromising its structural integrity, and consequently has no efficiency when reduced more than 30%. Roller furling a large genoa is no substitute for a true working jib in heavy winds. A single headstay boat requires a headsail change when winds increase creating dangerous foredeck work at the worst time. By contrast, the Scutter rig keeps the boat sailing well in a wide range of wind speeds, without putting the crew in harm’s way making sail changes. The Scutter headsail arrangement has a conventional roller furling 120% to 150% genoa positioned at the stemhead, and four feet forward of that on the bow platform is another stay that accepts a working jib also on a roller furler. In less than 20 knots of wind, the boat is sailed just like a sloop, with main and full genoa. As the wind picks up, the genoa is rolled in 33% to a predetermined and reinforced position. With more wind, the genoa is fully furled and the working jib is rolled out. The jib can also be reduced by 33%. Also, if wind conditions dictate, there is a third removable stay that is attached on the foredeck for a storm jib in extreme conditions. Another feature of the Scutter rig is that the center of effort on the headsails moves forward as the sails are furled, which will reduce the weather helm typically encountered on other boats in the higher wind ranges. The Scutter rig also incorporates a mast head crane resulting in the relocation of the back stays further aft. This allows for 15% more roach in the fully battened mainsail, enabling the Scutter to sail to windward reasonably well without the use of headsails. By eliminating the dependency on large overlapping genoas the Scutter rig requires much less winch work sailing to windward than a sloop. The features of the Scutter can be combined with the addition of a fully battened mizzen for a Sketch rig, with endless possibilities for the cruising sailor.  (http://www.shannonyachts.com/Sails.html)
• cutter Rig with a roller Genoa on the headstay and a working jib yankee on the jibstay (roller or hanked). The Scutter Rig allows the Genoa to tack easily, but airflow is disturbed by the working jib. The working jib may not need to be rolled to tack through the slot between the stays. (The Scutter Rig is championed by Shannon Yachts). One of the features of a Scutter Rig is that the CE moves down and forward as sail area is reduced. Moving the CE forward should reduce weather helm. On a Solent Rig and traditional cutters the CE move down and aft, adding to weather helm when sail is shortened….”The most important issue for long distance sailing is that one person must be able to sail the boat without assistance in all wind and sea conditions.” — Walt Schulz (Shannon)….If you are off – shore, on watch by yourself – who is on look out, or at the helm, while your head is down ? Fighting with various sails and jammed equipement….I rather like the look of the Scutter, the fact that the working jib is positioned relatively close to the genoa (relative to traditional cutters) means that the change in handling should not be too severe. The other disadvantage that I see is that with roller furling, the (admittedly short) bowsprit will be permanently out, no retractable bowsprit would be practicle I believe. A lot of windage, and added length….Amongst experienced sailors you will find a different opinion from each person aboard one boat, so consensus is hard to reach.Good furlers are reliable.I would opt for a “working” Genoa on a furler on the bowsprit and a hank on Yankee and a hank-on storm jib on the stem-head stay, then a generous MPS with a tape luff and no hanks. If you want to keep your demountables to the smaller lighter sails then the yankee can live in a well attached deck bag lashed to the rail. You may find the yankee is only used as a “light” storm jib anyway.I’ve used Profurl a lot without problems. I find a high cut on the furler is better, also the sheets can wrap from the furled clew position down and you can get a nice tight bundle this way when snugging down for a real blow.It is surprising just how much you can achieve sail balance in heavy going by unfurling a very small amount of the genoa to assist the storm jib and this is very useful at times.A furling drum should have it’s own dedicated winch.A masthead inner forestay works if the inner terminates close to the true mast top while the outer stay terminates at the end of a the crane, then you get enough separation to stop fouling and the mast will not flex. (http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/sailboats/seaworthy-headsail-combinations-16539.htm )
• The Shannon Scutter and Sketch rigs were developed by Walt 1995 as an evolutionary milestone in his quest to perfect short-handed sailing. The Scutter rig became a reality because of the recent improvement in the dependability of roller furling gear. Be aware that in spite of all the hype and the claims, a large (135%-150%) genoa cannot be reefed down to make a safe working jib. A genoa can only be successfully reefed by 30% before the sail loses shape and becomes worthless with no drive into the wind. A conventional sloop with a roller furled genoa on a single headstay cannot be reefed down to create a working jib that can claw off a lee shore or beat into strong headwinds for long periods of time. A small spitfire jib hanked on a babystay added to the foredeck of a sloop is fine as a storm survival sail, but it is too small and too far aft for sailing into the wind. A staysail on a cutter rig has the same limitations. On the Shannon Scutter and Sketch a real working jib is placed on the bowsprit forward of the genoa. By placing the jib forward, helm is reduced and the high cut jib will easily tack through the slot in front of the genoa. A Shannon is sailed normally with the genoa up to winds of about 20 knots. When the wind increases, the genoa is reefed ( a 130% genoa becomes approximately a 100% genoa.) As the wind climbs the reefed genoa is completely furled, and the working jib is rolled out. If necessary in true storm conditions, the working jib can also be reefed by 30% to become an effective heavy weather jib. In addition, Shannons are equipped with a removable storm jib inner forestay for extreme conditions. The Shannon Scutter and Sketch rigs create four useable headsail combinations all available without leaving the cockpit. Another feature of the new Scutter and Sketch rigs is the control of main halyard and reef lines from the cockpit.Thus, all sails, headsails and mainsail can be set, reefed and furled by one person from the cockpit.  (http://www.shannonyachts.com/offshore4.html)

Stays

• For a boat with a 40 foot mast I would not use less than ¼” 1×19 wire. This wire has a strength of 8,200 lbs. …more than enough to guarantee that something other than it will fail before it does. Heavier than 9/32” wire will add tremendous weight aloft unnecesssarily.  (From a Bare Hull, p. 374)
• Over-rigging …shows a lack of thought, for your must remember that rigging is a chain, and if any link is weak (like a tiny tang somewhere aloft) the whole thing will find its way overboard…  (From a Bare Hull, p. 374 – 5)
• …stainless steel is found on most boats. Stainless steel 1×19 wire rope is generally used for standing rigging  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• Standing Rigging. Supports the mast and includes the Backstay, Headstay, Shrouds:  (http://www.sailingusa.info/parts_of_the_boat.htm)

1. Shroud Lines or cables which give lateral stability to the mast.
2. Spreaders - Horizontal spars which spread the shrouds from the mast.
3. Headstay - A line or cable which supports the mast from the bow of the boat. If the line does not reach the top of the mast then it is also called a forstay.
4. Backstay - A line or cable which supports the mast from the stern of the boat.
5. Boom Topping Lift - A line which extends from the boom to the mast. Supports the boom when the mainsail is taken down..

• The choice today for stay material is between 1x 19 stainless-steel wire and solid stainless-steel rods. Rod stretches less than wire but is considerably more expensive. The lower stretchability of rod allows the mast to stand straight under great side loads…with less initial tension taken with turnbuckles. The first place you should consider using rod is in the upper shrouds, where it is especially advantageous if you increase loads by shortening the spreaders in order to allow the jib to be trimmed closer….rod rigging is not so important for cruising, where 1 x 19 is the best choice. It stretches less than the 7×19 wire rope used in halyads, but provides just a little elasticity to take the shock out of peak loading – for example, when the boat smashes through a wave.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 168)
• In continuous rigging, the stay runs in one length from the mast over the spreader or spreaders to the chain plate on deck. In discontinuous rigging, each partial section between the spreaders, the mast, and/or the deck has one relatively short length of rod or wire that terminates at a tang or turnbuckle. Well-engineered discontinuous rigging reduces fatigue at spreader ends and keeps mast straighter over a wide range of sail loadings.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 168)
• Hull and deck fitting attachments, such as chainplate tangs, need to be in perfect alignment with their stays (riggings that provides fore and aft support to the mast) or shrouds (rigging that provides athwartships support). Any misalignment can result in an unfair load being throw on the chainplate fasteners and/or the chainplate will flex, ultimately leading to the work hardening and failure. Flexing also opens up through-deck seals when present.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 62)
• Shrouds and stays should be assembled from 316 stainless steel wire rope, not the 302 or 04 that is sometimes used. Both 302 and 304 are more prone to corrosion, which is often revealed by telltale rust stains down the rigging.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 63)
• On a sailboat, the shrouds are pieces of standing rigging which hold the mast up from side to side. There is frequently more than one shroud on each side of the boat. Usually a shroud will connect at the top of the mast, and additional shrouds might connect partway down the mast, depending on the design of the boat. Shrouds terminate at their bottom ends at the chain plates, which are tied into the hull. They are sometimes held outboard by channels, a ledge that keeps the shrouds clear of the gunwales.[1] [2] Shrouds are attached symmetrically on both the port and starboard sides. For those shrouds which attach high up the mast, a structure projecting from the mast must be used to increase the angle of the shroud at the attachment point, providing more support to the mast. On most sailing boats, such structures are called spreaders, and the shrouds they hold continue down to the deck.  (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shroud_(sailing))
• A good seaman naturally favors forward lower shrouds because they never have to be disconnected…  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 165)
• Double lower shrouds are better than single lowers because not only do they provide support athwarships, but also slightly fore and aft of the upper shroud. Double spreader rigs should have intermediates and upper shrouds either continuously run from masthead to deck, or discontinuously run to link plates at each spreader tip.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 201 – 2)
• The shroud angle on a cruising boat should be at least 10 degrees; 13 degrees is recommended by Yachting Monthly’s Offshore Yacht Advisory Board.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 58)
• The hull structure in way of the mast and chainplates must be such that the loads on the rig do not cause the hull to deform….If a rig loosens significantly under load, as many do, some part of this equation is not right.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 58)
• unless you are really planning to challenge the Old Girl, a factor of 2.5 should be adequate. If you are wondering why you should even consider the lower factor, it is because weight aloft is detrimental to both the performance and the comfort of the boat. The stays and shrouds should not be a millimeter larger than big enough. So…multiply the calculated loads by 2.5 to get the required strength of the wire. Consult the table to determine the wire size that provides the strength you need.  (This Old Boat, p. 122)
• The forestay shold be at least as strong as the strongest shroud…since the tension on the forestay depends on backstay tension, it is better for the two to be the same size. An inner stay can be a size smaller.  (This Old Boat, p. 122)
• 1×19 stainless steel wire rope is really your only choice for stays and shrouds. 7×7 wire rope, popular for lifelines and luff wires. But for standing rigging aboard a fiberglass boat, 1×19 is what you need.  (This Old Boat, p. 123)
• When you re-rig an old boat, there can be value in changing to metric sizes. This is because the majority of sailboats are now manufactured somwhere other than the United States and virtually all of those are built to metric dimensions….you are going to find only metric components readily available outside of America.  (This Old Boat, p. 122)
• A change to metric also makes available the possibility of substituting the higher strength compact strand wire to maintain adequate strength without the dramatic change in clevis pin size typically required to move up a full fractional size.  (This Old Boat, p. 122)
• If your double lower shrouds attach to a single tang, it is essential that the tang remain free to rotate on the mounting bolt to prevent fore-and-aft movement to the mast from transferring all the load to a single shroud. This is a good place to insulate with Mylar tape. Cover the mast side surface of the tang with two layers of tape. Apply a little Teflon grease to the mast around the mounting bolt holes before installing the tangs. Do not overtighten the nut. These tangs must rotate freely.  (This Old Boat, p. 136)
• Standing rigging is the system of wires, terminals and fittings that hold a stayed spar upright. In determining the size and strength of its various parts, the wire is generally regarded as the necessary part – bulkhead, chainplate, tang, terminal, tunbuckle, ping, etc., should be stronger than the wire. If the terminals are engineered to 110% the breaking strength of the wire, little is gained by engineering the chainplates or tangs to 150%.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• The first number refers to the number of strands in any given length of rigging, the second to the number of wires in each strand.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• In preparing a boat for cruising, common sense advice is to replace all standard rigging with wire rope one size larger…Larger turnbuckles, clevis pins, chainplates and tangs will probably need to be fitted so that each part is stronger than the wire. If a fitting has a lower breaking strength than wire, no advantage is gained.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 198)
• See figure 10-12b in Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 200, for a suggested wire diameters for cruising boats graph
• Weight and windage aloft are considerations, but less so for the cruiser than the racer. For the cruiser, the ultimate goal is to keep the rig standing. Using the same size turnbuckle and wire for all standing rigging simplifies the spare parts inventory.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 200)
• The general rule to be observed aboard the cruising boat is that every wire should have a backup in the event of a rigging failure….simply another wire that can absorb a large share of the load if the primary wire breaks.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 201)
• For every mast support, there should be an equal and opposite support to keep the mast rigidly stayed in column.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 201)
• If you are changing the rig the rig in any way, make sure all the new parts are compatible. That means you must preassemble each piece with whatever it connects to. Heavier wire usually necessitates thicker and wider tangs and often heavier chainplates.  (This Old Boat, p. 126)
• Perhaps you have heard that rigging wire stretches when it is placed under load. That’s true. So shouldn’t we cut the wire a bit short to allow for this stretch? No. This initial elogantion, is called “constructional stretch” is typically only about 0.02% in 1×19 stainless steel rope. That means a 50’ stay will stretch about ⅛”, not enough to be of concern.  (This Old Boat, p. 128)
• Be sure that all links in the rigging system are as strong as one another; the whole system is like a chain.

Stay – Back

• Twin forestays enable hanking on twin jibs for downwind sailing, but unless they are anchored by separate fittings, the alternate loading on one stay and then the other can cause fatigue of tangs and possible stemhead fittings.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 201)
• An inner forestay can be set in heavy weather to help keep the mast in column, and hopefully keep the spar standing if the forestay goes – at least long enough to make repairs.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 201)
• Single backstays are easily replaced with twins, one to each quarter. This requires fitting chainplates either on the hull sides or to knees glassed inside at the hull-deck join. At the masthead, two tangs must be fitted. Alternatively, the single backstay can be left and running backstays added port and starboard.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 201)

Stay – Fore, Inner & Baby

• Regardless of her rig, any boat heading offshore should carry a forestay (inner forestay) for setting a small storm forestaysail in storm conditions. This stay runs from partway down the mast to the foredeck where the stay fitting must be strongly backed up…there should be a strong halyard to hoist the sails using this stay…you want to carry storm sails as close to the mast as possible in order to facilitate their handling and to keep the boat well balanced. Carrying a storm jib out on the bow can cause lee helm….the inner forestay should be opposed by special running backstays, often called “checkstays”, to keep the mast straight and in column when the storm forestaysail is set in very rough conditions…  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 165)
• See image from Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 164
• …the so-called “babystay”, which provides fore-and-aft support for the lower mast when there are no forward lower shrouds…many attachment and adjustment systems have been used on these stays. The simplest is a sturdy turn-buckle attachment to the deck with the proper-sized trigger-type snap schackle, which does not rely on a pin for security. Another good system utilizes a Hyfield lever, which, however, can pinch fingers and catch sheets.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 165)
• [both babystay and forestay] should be adjustable as well as removable, to facilitate tacking and jibing the spinnaker pole.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 165)
• Forestays tend to sag off more than any other stay, and if an unfair load is placed on any fitting, such as the terminal, turnbuckle or tang, consider adding a toggle to provide greater articulation of the wire and terminal and to prevent twisting. This will lengthen the life of the wire.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 205)
• How inboard should the inner stay be? Typically the distance between the deck fitting of the two stays will be about a quarter of the J dimension – the distance between the stem fitting and the mast – although there is nothing sacred about this ration…most fiberglass boats have a bulkhead between the forward cabin and the chain locker. If this bulkhead sits betwen 20% and 35% from the stem, locating the lower end of the stay at the juncture of the bulkhead and the foredeck will simplify the installation. A chainplate of adequate strength is passed through a slot in the deck and bolted to the bulkhead, effectively spreading hte load to the full width of the deck (and to the hull if the bulkhead is strongly bonded in one place). It is imperative that the protruding part of the chainplate is properly bent so that the pull of the stay is fair.  (This Old Boat, p. 132 – 3)

Stay – Solent

• There is an inner stay that can make sense as a retrofit for single headsail rigs. A solent stay is mounted just aft of the headstay and is intended to allow flying an alternative headsail rather than an additional one. Because of its geometry, it is easier to rig. Beyond the wire and fittings to attach it, it does not necessitate much – if any – additional hardware.  (This Old Boat, p. 134)
• At the deck you want the stay as far forward as possible to maximize the foretriangle available for the sail you fly from this stay, but it must be far enough aft not to foul the headstay, which likely has a roller-furled sail on it. At the masthead you want the stay attached as near the backstay attachment as possible to avoid the need for runners. Making the solent parellel to the headstay looks better but is not actually necessary since you will never have both stays in use at the same time, except perhaps when running.  (This Old Boat, p. 134)
• The deck is..not stiff enough to anchor the stay, but a short link to a knee fiberglassed into the bow in the chain locker resolves this issue.  (This Old Boat, p. 134)
• You will need a way to disconnect the stay when it’s not in use, but this does not have to be complicated. you simply back off the turnbuckle and pull the clevis pin that attaches it on the wire.  (This Old Boat, p. 134)
• Essentially, the Solent Stay is an inner stay that is placed just below the masthead and the existing forestay’s attachment point, thereby benefiting from backstay tension and eliminating the need for off-setting running backstays…and possibly also the inner tracks, cars and blocks for the sheet leads to the cockpit (see Figure 1)…Equipped with a release lever, the Solent can be removed from the foredeck and, because it’s geometry is different from a staysail stay, most likely secured directly to a bail on the side deck, just aft of the forward lower shroud, a simple and functional stowage location….The only other additions required for a Solent Stay are the sail and perhaps a dedicated set of blocks on the existing genoa track along with dedicated sheets left attached to the sail. Offshore, one can choose whether to leave the stay set up with the sail hanked on and bagged – and perhaps the sheets pre-run through their respective blocks – or the stay can be left stowed on the side deck with the sail in its locker. This essentially is a choice between easier tacking/jibing and being continuously prepped for bigger winds…The primary reasons to consider a Solent Stay rather than a staysail stay include the fact that the installation is simpler and less costly, it may clutter the deck less if additional tracks are not added, and it also makes the use of a longer luffed sail possible, e.g. to supplement the genoa under some sailing conditions as when sailing across the wind in lighter conditions and looking for every ounce of sail pressure you can apply to the boat. Its disadvantages are that the headsail needs to be partially furled in order to tack or jibe it, and the sail is not as useful across as many points of sail as a staysail might be. (http://www.svsarah.com/Whoosh/WhooshPrepMods.htm)

Terminals

• …a stay is only as strong as its connection with the mast, spreader or deck, where terminals…are secured to turnbuckles or tangs….With wire, several possibilities exist. The best wire terminals are the swaged ones known as “Tru-Lock”. The swaging should match the wire exactly. Make sure that both are in either metric or English dimensions, and not on each (otherwise there will be a mismatch)….  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 169)
• …swagged terminals should be inspected periodically. If there is any sign of longitudinal crack (a possibility under the great pressure of swaging), or if the swaging is out of alignment with its stay, the swaging should be replaced immediately.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 169)
• Water may seep between the terminal and the wire and cause corrosion. To keep water out, plug the top of the terminal with sealant.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 169)
• Warm salt water poses the greatest danger to standing rigging, and the point of attack is frequently the terminal fittings connecting the wire to the turnbuckle, tang or chain plate. Almost every type of terminal encloses the wire and prevents quick evaporation of water, which eventually begins to corrode the wire.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 202)
• Terminal fittings should be sufficiently strong that if the entire stay or shroud is subjected to a bench test, the wire will break before the terminal lets go.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 202 – 3)
• Terminal Types – The least expensive method, and one of the strongest, is the splice. With practice, a hand spliced eye can last for years and certainly exceeds the breaking strength of the wire. The only difficulty is that splicing 1×19 is very dificult…poured sockets are used on elevators and cranes, which should say all that’s necessary about their strength….in contrast to metalurgical bond of poured sockets, and the friction bond of hand splicing, most other terminals types rely on mechanical bonds, that is, by squeezing the terminal onto the wire. Properly executed, mechanical bonds can be quite strong, but there is always the risk of excessively or unevenly distorting the wire.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 203)
• Most wire rigging is installed with swage-type terminals that are attached by cold-molding the metal of the terminal around the wire. All swaging tends to work-harden the metal involved. The use of incorrect swaging pressures and or the repeated rolling of fittings make the terminal brittle and prone to premature failure. There are different types of machines for swagging that stress the terminal to a greater or lesser extent. A one time pass-through hydraulic machine produces the best results; a manual boat yard machine impose higher stresses with a greater probability of premature failure; and rotary hammers do the most damage…When swages are used on the lower ends of rigging, water wicks down into the terminal, causing corrosion and accelerating failure.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 63)
• Swagless terminals (e.g., Norseman and Sta-Lok) are more reliable, in addition to which they can be removed and reinstalled with normal hand tools without having to replace the wire rope.
• Swagless terminals are, in my opinion, the only terminals to consider. I personally prefer the design of those made by Sta-lok, but once installed, the equally common Norseman terminals are just secure.  (This Old Boat, p. 124)
• Put a pea-size blob of 3M 101 polysulfide sealant inside the end fitting then screw it back together. As you tighten, sealant will squeeze out where the wire enters the fitting…polysulfide does a better job of waterproofing the terminals….Do not over tighten – no more force than you can apply with one hand – and do not fail to lubricate the threads with Loctite before the initial assembly. Swagless terminals are reusable indefinitely. All you will need are new cones and maybe new formers.  (This Old Boat, p. 122)

Questions

+ Identify all standing rigging pieces by name.
-> They are…

• Backstay
• Aft-lower Shrouds
• Middle Shroud (all the way through spreaders to mast-head)
• Forward-lower Shrouds
• Innerstay (or staysail stay)
• Forestay (or headstay)

Chainplates

+ Calculate the strength of the current tangs. Are strong enough or will I need to upgrade the size of my chainplate tangs? Are chainplates sized well?
-> See p. 126 in This Old Boat for more info.

> See fig. 10-19 from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat

-> If I upgrade the wire size, then yes. See how to calculate tang size from image of page 126, This Old Boat.

-> On 3/22/11 I finally got around to doing this calculation. The following notes are from IMAG0710.jpg which reads “You can calculate the strength of a tang by multiplying its thickness (T) times the remaining width of metal at the the hole [on either side of the hole] (A + B) times the tensile strength of 316 stainless steel.” So, to sum up the formula to use is as follows:

thickness (T) x remaining width (A + B) x tensile strength (80,000) = tang strength

So I took the measurements from my chainplates and did the same calculation (shown in mm):

• Midship Chain plates = .3 x (.8 + .10) x 80,000 = 4,320 lbs.
• Fore- & back-stay plates = .6 x (.9 + .9) x 80,000 = 8,640 lbs.

-> I spoke to Eric about this on 4/3/11 and he said that generally speaking, unless there is some known flaw in the system, then don’t upgrade the size of the rigging just buy new. I should replace the old tangs with new as well and I could upgrade their size (if I want) but it’s not going to do anything strength wise if they are sized properly for the standing rigging. So, at this point I basically need to decide what size the standing rigging will be and then insure that the tangs are properly sized (which they should be) and then I just need to buy the stuff.

+ How will I secure tangs?
-> I was thinking I could just epoxy the tangs in place, fasteners and all. Will this work? On 4/3 I confirmed that yes, this will work.

+ Will I raise the chainplate above the surface of the deck to help resist water leaking?
-> It seems to make sense, the question now is how exactly.

-> I looked up some more information about this (1/31/11). I found one quote from a forum:  (http://www.samlmorse.com/forum/read.php?5,6088,7299)

it’s fairly simple to cast an epoxy/vinylester/polyester base for things. The West System’s manual has a good description with pictures of the process. Works for winches, cleats, stanchions, etc. And it’s integral to the boat, so it can’t be crushed or moved, etc. 

There was an image that was attached to that same forum that showed the West System manual and I saved it as an image (castingbase.png). Here’s the walkthrough from their website (http://westsystem.com/ss/bonding-hardware // image – ResizedImage200178-use-19.gif):

Use the thickened epoxy to cast a base under the hardware when mounting hardware to a curved or uneven surface, or mounting hardware at an angle to the surface.

1. Prepare the fasteners, holes, substrate and base as described above.
2. Bond small blocks to the substrate to support the base at the desired height and position (e.g. winch base, Figure 19a)
3. Apply enough thickened epoxy to cover the blocks. If the gap between the base and the surface is over 1/2″, fill the gap in two separate layers to avoid exotherm.
4. Place the hardware in position, resting on the blocks (Figure 19b) and install the fasteners.
5. Smooth the excess epoxy into the desired fillet shape around the base (Figure 19c). Allow the epoxy to cure fully before loading. Protect exposed epoxy from UV.

This same “base casting” could be used for my winches as well, or maybe even the cockpit combing if required. This is a good technique and I should try to use this where possible.

-> As of 3/22/11, the technique I will use will be to place fiberglassed blocks between all deck hardware and the deck. I can use a similar method instead of a pure epoxy base that will be more durable and can also just epoxy the chainplate in place. I might even be able to just epoxy the tangs in place with no need for a base at all. I do have a couple questions about this I’ll have to ask Eric thought:

• Might there be a “hard point” where the epoxy seals around the tang at deck level, but does doesn’t transfer the stress to the metal and bolts below?
• Do the tangs vibrate or move a little while under stress? If so, this would break the epoxy bond, correct?

-> I’m not sure if this is really correct and I wanted to verify so I talked to Eric about this tonight (3/24/11) – mentioning my thinking this is a misguided thought – and he agreed, there isn’t anything to worry about as this is all moving as one unit. If the metal moves, the epoxy will break, but everything should move as one unit.  This brings me to the following question:

Q:  Do I need to use a base at all?
A:  The only reason to use the base is so that either fasteners can be mounted to the blocks or to raise the chainplate above the normal flow of the deck so water can’t seep in. As I plan to epoxy the chainplates in position, there shouldn’t be any way for water to leak inside unless the epoxy has given up entirely. So, I don’t think I need any kind of base for the chainplates and as usual, if it’s something I decided I really need later I can add it.

+ I’m concerned that my chainplates aren’t laid up “as thick as the hull” as I’ve heard before – how to address this?
-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that it’s the total thickness that the chainplates are going through – not necessarily specifically the thickness of the fiberglass. Considering I used 2, 3/4″ pieces he didn’t see any reason to worry about thickness. He did recommend that I grind back some areas where there might be some air bubbles, which I had already considered as the day I installed them was the hottest layup temperatures yet, I used tropical hardener for the first time and I even ended up with epoxy in my eye – tough day!. He said I should think about how the tabbing is making contact with the hull and I have a good layup layering schedule with good hull contact overall. I should also remember that the chainplate wants to pull up out of the deck and it is secured well to the underside of the deck.

So, in the end, all the worrying I did about having to re-do this was wasted, a lesson learned and good news too!

+ What’s the best way to insure that the chainplates are aligned with the mast properly? How about with their stays and shrouds?
-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that from looking at the placement of my two lower shrouds, those were definitely beyond the 13 degree angle from mast requirement. He also said that if the chainplates were a cm or two off center that it wouldn’t affect things too much as rigging flexes and shifts under pressure. Overall though, he thought they were definitely within the margin of error and if I made every effort to place the chainplates were the old chainplates used to be, I should be in good shape.

+ Is there anyway to calculate how strong by construction of bulkheads, chainplate, tang, terminal, turnbuckle pin, etc. is 100% stronger than the standing rigging?
-> While I think this would be awesome to know, I think the best way is just to assume. I guess I know the breaking strength of the wire, then that’s how strong the bulkheads, chainplate, etc. have to withstand. However what kid of forces are equal to 8,200 lbs. of “breaking tension” (or whatever, with wire) would be very hard to compare. Here’s what I think, I am building this stronger than how it was before (besides maybe the thickness of the chainplate fiberglass, which I am going to research anyway to see if it will be increased), so if it’s stronger, then how could it be wrong? While I’m sure Carl Alberg’s original design wasn’t up to modern day understanding of “blue water” standards I am taking it above and beyond that, plus new epoxy and fiberglass technologies. I think I can safely say that whatever hardware I use will not be stronger than the bulkheads, chainplates, etc.

Clevis Pins, Toggles & Turnbuckles

+ Should I use Anhydrous Lanolin or Teflon Grease for the turnbuckle grease?
-> I think Teflon Grease since it’s the new standard. However, at this time I don’t have a good knowledge of the pro’s and cons of each other than the existence of one another.

-> On 3/22/22, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that and he tends to use a dry silican spray, just like on a mast track. So, this doesn’t really give me an answer exactly so I’l have to look into this further.

-> I did some further reading and found that the main issue with turnbuckles, especially stainless steel ones, is galling and seizing. I saw one forum poster (w/ 40k+ posts) suggest that the only option here was Anhydrous Lanolin, however there were a lot of other suggestions as well, including:

• dry molybdenum
• Tefgel
• Lanacote

So considering the options seem fairly flexible, I’ll go with Anyhrous Lanolin for now and maybe try something else in the future.

+ Which type of turnbuckles to use?
-> Calder says use open and avoid stainless steel, which can lead to galling. Bronze is best.

Rig Type

+ Will I change anything about the rig of the boat?
-> One school of thought (Casey) says it takes a lot of experience, then realize what a certain rig could do to fix a certain issue with the boat. In my opinion, no major changes should be made. I should just set it up as it was, see how the boat sails. Then, after some experience, possibly consider altering.

-> I’m still in agreement with this, except, I want to add two things: twin backstay and twin headstay, those two changes will require of changes to the system including:

• New backstay chainplates
• New mast head
• New forestay

-> On 3/17/11 I’ll wanted to expand this list a bit as I have new plans, so here are the new things that I will be modifying regarding the rig of my Bristol 27:
Twin Backstay – new backstay chainplates, new mast head
Tabernacle – new mast-step, tabernacle mast-system

-> On 3/23/11, I began to explore the options of changing to a scutter rig after a discussion about this with Eric on 3/22/11. We had discussed adding a solent stay, as it was one of my questions, however I never really quite thought of the possible options with a solent. During our discussion he mentioned that he is going to add a scutter rig to his boat, so I gave the topic a round of research on the web (see “+ Scutter Rig for all the research). To see all the new questions about this rather big change, I’ve started a new question section to match the research (also named “Scutter Rig…”).

-> As of 3/12/12, I will not modify the rig that came with the boat, instead keeping it as a masthead sloop.

+ What is a club footed jib?
-> I spoke to Eric about this on 3/24/11 and he said that this is a jib on a boom that can automatically tack. It’s probably too much for a small boat.

Rig Type – Scutter

+ What is the sail arrangement for a scutter rig?
-> On 3/22/11, Eric mentioned that I might go with the front sail being a high-cut yankee @ 130% (down to 90 – 130%) for lighter air sail. Can go down to 105% and can also tack easily past the inner forestay.

-> Shannon yachts (3/23/11) says “Scutter headsail arrangement has a conventional roller furling 120% to 150% genoa positioned at the stemhead, and four feet forward of that on the bow platform is another stay that accepts a working jib also on a roller furler” (http://www.shannonyachts.com/Sails.html)

-> I spoke to Eric about this on 3/24/11 and he said recommended sizes for both sails:

• Sail attached to Inner Forestay (Solent Stay) – this sail could be 130 -140%, depending on my choice. 130% is a pretty nice size, gives a good range,is reasonably good in light air and can be reefed down. and Eric will probably end up going for 130%. You could go 140%, but it depends how the boat sails in light air.
• Sail attached to Forward Forestay (Bowsprit Stay) – this sail should be a 100% jib. The 100% here will be different, as it is a bigger forward triangle. The jib should be cut at a yankee, which improves visualization and doesn’t really affect wind capture (as most wind is above the deck line area).

Eric also explained how the sailing might be wight a scutter rig (which I tried to follow closely, but my notes may be incomplete here). In variable or gusty conditions, it might be fine to keep the genoa rolled out at 130% (or 140% if I get that size) and just reef down when blows come in. A good example is in the trades, at night there is often squalls that can double the wind within minutes. If it’s 15 knots, then all of a sudden 25 – 30, you can reef down the genoa quite easily and then unfurl it to go back to normal conditions. If conditions worsen, roll up the genoa and roll out the jib.

+ What are the benefits & disadvantages of a scutter design? Will I choose to use a scutter rig?
-> On 3/22/11 Eric and I had a discussion about the scutter design after we began talking about a solent stay. He is converting his Westerley 26 into a “scutter rig” and he said I might consider doing the same thing so that I have a removable solent stay attached to a roller furlor.

-> Advantages include (3/23/22):

• Masthead placement (just below forestay attachment) beenefits from backstay tension & eleminates need for off-setting running backstays
• Can be removed from the deck and stowed on a aft of the forward shroud
• May not require tracks and is less cluttering than a staysail
• All lines and halyards come to cockpit
• No need to leave cockpit (No more need to go forward to change sails in poor conditions)
• Both headsails are roller reefed
• The club-footed jib uses the same line to roll the jib and haul the clew out to the end of the jib boom (?)
• Moves center of effort (CE) forward sail area is reduced (reducing weather helm – which is supposed to be an issue with Bristol 27′s)
• Allows a true working jib with a roller furlor in heavy winds
• Eliminates dependency on large overlapping genoas, requiring much less winch work sailing to windward than a sloop (?)
• Genoa can tack easily (between mast and solent stay)
• Working jib need not be rolled up
• Looks good
• Can find sail balance in heavy weather by slightly releasing genoa to assist storm jib
• Real working jib is placed on the bowsprit forward of the genoa – reducing helm
• High cut jib will easily tack through the slot in front of the genoa
• Four usable headsail combinations – 130% Genoa (to 20 knots), 100% genoa (higher than 20 knots), Working jib (much higher than 20 knots), Storm Jib (storm conditions)
• Less sails required to be stowed

Disadvantages include:

• More clutter than no extra fore-stay (in any form)
• Have to add a bowsprit
• Genoa’s airflow disturbed by working jib
• No ability to hank on sails to pick specific

-> So, with research complete and the previous advantages/disadvantages laid out, it seems that a scutter rig would make good sense for my boat as it will likely solve the weather helm the previous owner was attemping to solve (by cutting the boom shorter!) and also has a lot of great advantages (especially for a single hander). At this point, I just need to think how it will all come together.

-> On 3/24/11, I Cmdr. Jonathan King (who is cruising the keys) sent me some information on how he sails his Bristol 27:

In 5-15 knots the b27 wants canvas, give her everything. 15-20 is where you will have fun with a genoa,. 20-25 you need a single reef in the main. 25-35 means deep reef in main, but you can still run 100% jib. 35 and above just either douse the main completely and use a 60% jib, or you can drop the jib, sheet in that double reefed main with the helm lashed amidships and heave to. I have run her in gusts of about 35-45 with a double reefed main, 40% jib with everything closed up, full foul weather gear, and harnessed to the boat. We screamed along at 8-9 knots on a broad reach, but got a wave that washed over us, with water to our necks in the cockpit for at least a minute

->  As of 3/12/12, I have decided against converting to a Scutter Rig for now.  I might go that way eventually, but I want to sail my boat for awhile, then see if a rig change is necessary.  I have a good sense that a Scutter rig is the right call, however if many Bristol 27′s have been sailed for years with the Sloop, I can’t go wrong by following suit.

+ How will a bowsprit work into a scutter design?
-> I will need a bowsprit to make the scutter rig work for my boat. I will answer it’s construction in the “Deck” question sections under “Bow Platform”. I will note that I may end up covering a couple rigging related questions in that question (maybe), but in an effort to conglomerate the project as a whole, I will answer/ask all questions in that document area.

+ Will I add a third stay for a storm jib in extreme conditions?
-> Shannon yachts says they do this “…there is a third removable stay that is attached on the foredeck for a storm jib in extreme conditions” (http://www.shannonyachts.com/Sails.html)

-> I spoke to Eric about this on 3/24/11 and he said that you can add one of these at a later date. Sail the boat first then add it later if needed. What you actually want in heavy conditions is to have a very small headsail, but far out front to keep the bow into the wind. The inner stay actually moves CE back. If it’s very heavy, I might only have 4′ of headsail out – it’s not really pulling, but is mostly keeping into the wind.

Stays

+ What size stays?
-> Calder says 2.5 should be adequate. Weight aloft isn’t worth the .5 gain to larger wire.

-> 1×19 stainless steel wire rope is only choice for stays and shrouds

-> However I also need to know the nominal diameter (e.g. 5/16 or 3/8 or other). That will tell me the breaking strength (which is lower with 316 wire vs. 302/304)

-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that it will be different for the different stays, that’s why he was asking if there was any descriptor of what the boat came with. The inner lowers are different than the outers. I could also probably go by a boat of similar size (mast height) and there will be a ballpark that should be pretty easy. I’ll have to keep looking into this.

-> Based on my tang strength calculations (4/4/11), I think I had 1/4″ for the fore & back-stays. I think I had 3/16″ for the shrouds. I’ll verify this thinking w/ Eric.

-> On 10/10/11, I looked into the size of the previous stays and saw that the original brochure for the Bristol 27 was 7/32″, so I decided to replace the exact size.

+ How to calculate what percentage each shroud is holding?
-> Perhaps some kind of tension testing device?

-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that I will have a tension meter to tension each shroud accordingly. Check the old owners manual to find specifics, but there’s also universal tensions which are based on the tension of the wire.

+ How do the shrouds spread the weight out?
-> According to Casey, 45% of the load on the upper shroud and with twin lowers, each carries about 32.5% of the load.

+ How can I measure shroud angles to be at least 13 degrees?
-> I think for awhile, I was thinking that this would be the angle of the middle shroud over the spreaders (if looking forward to aft). However, I did some reading and here is what I found:  (http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/Articles/mast_furniture.htm)

In the sort of rigs we are addressing here, it is unusual to allow spreaders to articulate in a horizontal plane. That is the sort of thing you do if you are interested in controlling mast bend which is all a bit racy. Quite often they don’t articulate in a vertical plane either, which is fine so long as whoever built the sockets knew what angle to build them at – to bisect the shroud angle – see Figure 4. As we said many magazines ago, it is vital to keep things like spreaders in compression, and restrict the bending. If the spreader roots are included with the hounds, it is often possible to extend the sides of the box downwards to form the lugs for the lower shrouds.

-> That last part in there, which mentions extending the box to form lugs for the lower shrouds, I checked if this was done on Bristol 27′s and found that the boats I saw didn’t do this. I don’t think that’s really a thing for me to think about doing.

-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that the lower stays is what I’m worried about in terms of being 13 degrees off center. From looking at it, they seemed to definitely be within the 13 degree range, but if I wanted to verify this I could use the quadratic equation to determine this exactly.

+ Will I use a double headstay? How does the roller furlor work into double headstay?
-> No, page 132 of this old boat describes many of the things that must be done (rigging, blocks, etc. etc.) so it’s better to not have twin forestays. See Figure 10-14 from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat (p. 201) for more ideas.

-> Yes (1/11/11). Though, I think I need to research this more to prove why…

-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that he has seen them, they used to be in vogue, but they are a pain in terms of rigging so I should stay away. I was never really sold on the idea for this very reason, so I think for now I’ll just stick with a single headstay.

+ Should I use discontinous standing rigging or continous?
-> Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 168 says discontinuous reduces fatigue and keeps masts straighter.

-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that he would use continuous as I have more of those parts and I can just stick with this.

+ What about rod rigging? What style (rod v. ss wire)?
-> There are some benefits (more corrosion resistant and stronger), but it is more expensive and is very difficult to keep aboard extra supply, therefore probably not a good choice.

-> Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 168 suggests 1×19. Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat just says to upgrade to one size larger.

-> wire is really the best choice. Rod is doable, but stowage is a problem. 1×19 is still quite strong.

+ Will I switch to metric?
-> Yes, it is more widely available for rigging changes worldwide and allows some strength upgrades.

+ How long should I cut the stays?
-> The exact length they need to be, do not cut shorter for stretching.

+ What will I do with my old stays?
-> Originally, I was planning to sell the old stays on Craigslist. However, on 7/2, Paul Van Dyk came to the boat and took a look at some of my old rigging and we had a discussion that it would actually be better to save the rigging for back-ups. I’ll definitely buy all new things, but since all this rigging is already cut and sized for my boat, I may as well just keep it around so I don’t need to buy new backups (for the time being). Paul also measured and noted all the rigging and to keep this record, I’ve recorded it below (the numbers correlate with numbers marked on the actual stays):

1. 25′ 1/4″ 1×19 w/ terminal and eye
2. 30′ 3/16″ 1×19 w/ terminal and tang (headstay)
3. 34′ 3/16″ 1×19 w/ terminal and tang (backstay)
4. 15′ 3/16″ 1×19 w/ terminal and tang and turnbuckle (lower)
5. 15′ 3/16″ 1×19 w/ turnbuckle and tang (upper)
6. 30′ 3/16″ 1×19 (upper) (only one)
7. 15′ 3/16″ (lower)
8. 15′ 3/16″ (lower)

Stay – Back

+ Will I use a double backstay?
-> Yes

->  As of 3/12/12 I have decided against this.  They are hard to find equal tension and I have heard they create harmonic type vibrations.  They also aren’t necessarily an upgrade from a single back stay, because it’s dubious if a single back stay could keep the mast up in case one of the stays failed.

+ How strong will the back-stay be?
-> As strong as the strongest shroud. So both the same size.

Stay – Fore, Inner & Baby

+ Will I have a babystay?
-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that if I’m going to bend my mast to shape the main and headsail, but if it didn’t come with one he wouldn’t add one at this point. I can add it later. He has a babystay on his Cal, but it’s a tall rig and you can’t shape the mainsail without raking the mast. So, I think the answer is no (as I had already been considering).

+ How strong will the fore-stay be?
-> As strong as the strongest shroud. So both the same size.

+ What size should the inner forestay be?
-> One size smaller than the main shroud size.

+ Will an inner forestay be added? If added, how do I prevent the inner forestay from interfering with the jib? Would it be possible to weld a large cleat around the inner forestay to incorporate the two into one function and prevent casual toe stubs?
-> I think the only way to stop it from interfering is to remove it all together. Otherwise, the inner forestay is right in the area where the jib will tack.

-> On 3/22/11, I spoke with Eric about this and he said that between an inner forestay and a solent stay, the solent stay is the better choice and that an inner forestay would be a cutter. Would start 60 – 75% up mast and then come down to the deck, but you will have to have running backstays to counteract the pull of of the inner forestay that you would to consider that.

-> At this time (3/23/11), I believe I am only considering adding a solent stay as part of a scutter rig, and will therefore not need to consider an inner forestay.

Stay – Solent

+ Will a solent stay be added?
-> On 3/22/11, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that a solent stay is going to be 2 headsails attaching to the top of the mast and it’s not the easiest thing in the world to set-up. He mentioned that between an inner forestay and a solent stay, the solent stay is the better choice. With a sloop, the roller furlor gives a 30% range. Let’s suppose you had a 120% genoa – with a foam luff – the sail will only keep any decent shape down to 70% (maybe). I could still furl it lower than 70%, but it’s only in storm conditions (and I think that won’t give me much power). I could also make the solent hank on, then I could hank on a storm jib. To some degree it just depends on how the boat sails and responds to different types of headsails. He thought that I should figure out how the boat sails in different conditions by reading accounts of what people typically use in various conditions, where people start to reef down (as all boats have a sequence of reefing that works well for them), what size sails they used when cruising and basically good information about how the boat sails. If I know the previous information, it will help to make an educated decision about the boat. Another thing he mentioned that the Bristol 27 may be more a headsail kind of boat as I have a small boom. I could also go with a 120% roller furlor, giving me 85 – 120% sail and in lightest airs, I could have a drifter, on a soft stay

-> On 3/23/11 I had an e-mail from a Bristol 27 sailer who is cruising in the keys (Johnathan King). He said that the mainsail likes to get reefed at 20 knots.

-> As of 3/24/11, with my recent decision to move to a scutter rig, I will certainly add what is commonly called a “solent” stay. What’s really happening is a new, more “forward” headstay is added for a jib with a yankee cut on it. So, as this is aft of a the most forward headstay, it is considered a solent stay, but it’s in the same exact location as the previous headstay was. In other words, yes I will add a forestay, but it’s not actually adding a new fitting on the deck, but out to a bulwark. On the same day I discussed this with Eric who confirmed my thinking. so this question is solved – yes, I will add a “solent stay”.

->  As of 3/12/12, I have decided against a Scutter Rig and therefore against any type of new forestay or solent stay.

+ Where should the solent stay attach at the mast?
-> Casey says (3/23/11) “At the masthead you want the stay attached as near the backstay attachment as possible to avoid the need for runners. Making the solent parellel to the headstay looks better but is not actually necessary since you will never have both stays in use at the same time, except perhaps when running.” (This Old Boat, p. 134)

-> I spoke to Eric about this on 3/24/11 and he said that you can just bring a second tang, under the old tang. May have to bend the tang a little so that

-> As of 3/12/12, I have no plans of adding a solen stay and therefore will not answer this question at this time.

+ How can I determine the exact location the a solent stay fitting?
-> Casey says (3/23/11) “you want the stay as far forward as possible to maximize the foretriangle available for the sail you fly from this stay, but it must be far enough aft not to foul the headstay, which likely has a roller-furled sail on it.” (This Old Boat, p. 134). That being said, with the scutter rig I have planed (as of 3/23/11), shannon yachts mentions the solent should be on the stemhead.

-> On 2/24/11 I confirmed with Eric that this solent will be placed on the bow stemhead. I think I had previously considered a solent as added aft of the stemhead, however the scutter rig I have planned now will keep the old forestays, and place a new “forward” headstay on the end of a bow pulpit. This is

+ How can I be sure the deck is stiff enough to be an anchor for the stay?
-> Casey suggests (3/23/11) that if “The deck is..not stiff enough to anchor the stay, but a short link to a knee fiberglassed into the bow in the chain locker resolves this issue.” (This Old Boat, p. 134)

-> This isn’t a consideration at this time (3/24/11). Previously I thought the fitting would have to go on deck somewhere, but actually it will go at the end of the bow stemhead which will is already prepared to take this kind of load. I will mention that I sent a question to the owners of WHOOSH (an article I used for research regarding solent stays) and Tyler got back to me saying they used a chain locker bulkhead for the deck fitting attachment. To reinforce it, he said he “…used several layers of bi-axial cloth to beef up the underside of the deck and the (forward) face of the bulkhead inside the well, the GRP equivalent of glassing in a piece of timber athwartships. We took a bit of a beating when crossing Biscay, much of it with the Solent up, and there’s nary a fracture in the gelcoat surface up there, so I think it worked well”. It’s kind of good to see how others reinforce similar hardware of this type.

+ How would a solent stay disconnect? Is there any reason it must disconnect? Can a roller furlor also disconnect?
-> Casey suggests (3/23/11) there does need to be a disconnect and writes “You will need a way to disconnect the stay when it’s not in use, but this does not have to be complicated. you simply back off the turnbuckle and pull the clevis pin that attaches it on the wire.”  (This Old Boat, p. 134)

-> Actually, I realized (4/15/11) that as I will be doing a scutter rig, there is no need for the “solent” stay to disconnect. In fact, in a scutter rig the idea of a solent isn’t exactly the right idea since it’s really just an inner forestay and and a forward forestay.

Terminals

+ How can I prevent wire corrosion at the terminals?
-> Essentially, it comes down to properly lubricating them and using the proper type of metal.  For specific techniques, see the “Terminals” research section for full information.

+ What type of swagging will I use for terminals?
-> According to Calder, it’s best not to swag terminals; instead use compression-type terminals are preferred to swage terminals.

+ What kind of terminals will I use?
-> Swagless

+ WIll the terminals be Sta-lok or Norseman?
-> There is a perfect how-to for how to do this in This Old Boat (p. 125). I might just choose this way because I have seen the how-to and it seems fairly easy and secure “looking”.

Product List

Chainplates

• Chainplate Tangs (8) (for midship shrouds (6), forestay (1) and backstays (1))

Fasteners

• __# 3/4″ Fasteners (for tangs)
• Castle Nuts / Drilled Nuts (For cotter pins)
• Cotter Pins (40) (for toggles) (2 for each tang)
• Clevis Pins (40) (for toggles) (2 for each tang)
• Machine Screws (for high stress hardware)
• O-ring (prevent compression of the rivets squeezing out all the sealant)

Stays

• 1/4″ 1×19 Stainless Steel Wire (90′) (for forestay (1) & backstay(1))
  7/32″ 1×19 Stainless Steel Wire (200′) (for midship shrouds (6))
  Bronze Turnbuckles (10)
• Toggles (20) (2 per stay)

Lubricants & Miscellanea

• 3M 101 Polysulfide (Inside of swagless terminals)
• Anhydrous Lanolin (turnbuckle lubricant)
• Duralac (corrosion inhibitor for rivets)
• Lock-Tite
• Plastic Tubing (anti-chafe for shrouds)
• Rigging Tape

• Should you decide to sew your own sails, you will need four things: 1) A heavy duty sewing machine (such as a reeds) 2) A large floor area to lay out cloth 3) Cloth, thread and other hardware 4) Some instruction how to do it.
• You might be surprised what a difference a new, properly cut sail will do to improve balance, speed and windward ability.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 217)

Battens

• The batten pockets should be strong and have ties or some other provisions for securing the battens – it is not enough to put the batten down against elastic and slide it under a flap.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 198)
• Some cruising sailors, no doubt distraught over the number of hours spent repairing batten pockets, advocate the use of battenless, roachless mainsails. On the plus side, battens and batten pockets are eliminated, which many be the single largest cause of sail repairs. And, on boats with excessive weather helm, the reduction in sail area can make the boat balance better….On the negative side, a battenless, roachless sail will never achieve the same desirable shape of a conventional sail. The reduction in sail area does cause a loss of speed, and while some justify it by saying sailboats are so slow anyway…I’m inclined to think that the ½” knot drop is extra important because sailboats are so slow.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 217)
• The fully battened is another concept that has been well proven. The battens improve sail shape and, therefore, performance on just about any point of sail, so much so that many fully battened Dacron mainsails set better than high tech racing mains will short battens. Full-length battens also make sail handling easier and may well increase the life expectancy of the sail by reducing damage caused by flogging. However, off the wind the sail will chafe where the battens bear on the shrouds – the sail will need additional protection (a patch of spectra sailcloth – is the best approach) The cost of a fully battened mainsail is relatively modest…Combined with lazyjacks, the sail can be lowered and stowed with little time and effort. When lowered, the stacked sail will be higher than a traditional main because of all the hardware – mast steps will almost certainly be needed to get up to the halyard and put on a sail cover.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 66 – 7)
• Fully battened mains are growing in size at the expense of headsails, reversing the trend of the 1970’s and 1980’s, in which headsails got larger and mainsails smaller From a cruiser’s perspective, this is a welcome change, resulting in evenly balanced sails that are easy to handle.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 67)

Inventory

• A good inventory of sails represents a substantial investment. It only makes sense to give serious thought to their type, material, weight, special features and number.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 214)
• The well found cruising boat should carry sails for all types of weather, ranging from ghosting conditions, to full-blow gales. Of course, much of the inventory will apply to those middle and more normal conditions. But short chaning yourself by skipping storm sails or drifters means endangering the boat and crew at worst, and subjecting them to excessive heel or irritating slatting at least.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 217)
• Sloop with single headsail: mainsail, working jib, #1 genoa (150%), #2 genoa (110 – 130%), Drifter or cruising spinnaker, Trysail, Storm jib,
• Option Sales for single sloop – #2 jib, second mainsail.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 218)
• See fig. 10-36 for suggested sail inventory for a sloop  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 218)

Mainsail

• Instead of this system [luff-feeding system], the mainsail luffs for all cruising and offshore boats should be attached to the mast with sturdy plastic or metal slides that feed into a slot or track on the after side of the spar. That way, the whole luff remains secured to the mast whether the sail is up or down. These slides (and similar ones on the mainsail’s foot) should be secured to the sail with seizings or heavily sewn sail stop material rather than shackle, which can open up when the sail flogs. (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 198)

Sail Bags & Covers

• A good dimension is 15 x 20”. Use heavy, durable cloth and drawstrings. So that they can be easily identified in difficult conditions, code these bags with special combinations or markings – for example, a triangle for blocks, a stripe for shackles, and a circle for winch handles.
• If the bag is too small or does not function properly, it won’t be used…we recommend using the long sausage-shaped “turtle” bag, which allows two people to bag and stow a jinb relatively quickly and with little bulk. The weak point of this type of bag is the zipper used to close it up; have your sailmaker inspect turrtles annualy, and if necessary, replace damanged zippers.
• Furled mainsails and other boomed sails must be religiously protected with sail covers…covers keep sails clean in harbor, but more importantly they keep the sun off them. The easiest and neatest covers to not wrap around the forward side of the mast but, rather, end at the sails headboard and gooseneck with a couple of restraining ties. After being secured at the boom end, the cover is draped over the sail and tied down and adjusted with shock cord leading through a series of hooks.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 194)

Storm Sails

• For an offshore yacht, the storm trysail and storm jib should be the sails that are first ordered and best cared for. These are the only sails that can get the boat where she’s headed in any wind stronger than a drifter. They are the cruising sailor’s best possible insurance policy.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 200)
• They [storm sails] should be more than just one step down in area from the heavy-weather configuration of a deep reef and small jib…the storm trysail should be about 25% the area of the full mainsail.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 200)
• The best arrangement…is to rig a separate track from the deck the full luff length of the trysail. The trysail slides can be rigged on this track well in advance of heavy weather and the sail left in its bag, ready to be hoisted.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 200)
• Ideally, the storm jib should be fitted with hanks and set on the forestay – not the outer headstay – in order to bring the sail plan’s center of effort near the mast. With this arrangement, undesirable lee helm is not generated by a jib flying way out on the bow. With the storm trysail set fairly far forward, the two sails will be near each other and the boat should balance well and steer easily.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 200)

Questions

+ Is there a sailmaking class I can take?
-> On 3/22, I spoke to Eric about this and he said that Carol Hass in Port Townsend or Seattle is a well known sailmaker that offers classes. There probably isn’t anyone in town. Search for Carol H Sail Maker Seattle and something will come up. She offers classes, talks about different cloth. He thinks I could do it without taking this course though. For general sewing, I could take a class at Fabric Depot or Monte Villa sewing, they offer courses all the time. I will be sewing simple zig-zag and straight stitch. At least learning to use a machine is the way to go.

Battens

+ Will I do battens? If so, where? Will I have a fully battened mainsail?
-> Yes, I will need to research where and how later.

-> Yes, makes it a lot easier to handle. They go into pockets built into the mainsail. This is usually every 2 feet.

Inventory

+ What sail inventory should I carry?
-> “Sail Plans” section below has some ideas, more will come. for now, I put what Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts said in the “purchase list’ above.

-> Here’s what Paul Van Dyk Suggests

• Main with double reef (2)
• Roller Furlor – 75% – > 125%
• Storm Sail (45%) – Headsail
• Trysail – Mainsail
• Lightwind drifter
• Spinnaker

Sail Fabric

+ What sail fabric?
-> Dacron is really the only viable option at this time. Kevlar and mylar may be available later, but are not suitable for long term cruising at this time.

Product List

• Bronze Hanks (6+) (for storm sail hank on)
• Drifter and/or Cruising Spinnaker
• Dacron Fabric (to make necessary sails on this list)
• Genoa – #2 (110 – 130%) / Large jib = IOR #2 Genoa
• Jib – #3 (Smaller, perhaps reefable)
• Jib – Storm, Mainsail (2)
• Jib – Working (Small)
• Mast Tracks
• Sail covers
• Trysail (Storm)

• The entire hull structure is not uniformly stressed by the forces of the sea. Bending loads produced by waves and by fore-and-aft rigging stresses amidships and high and low – at the deck edge and garboard [The first range of planks or plates laid on a ship's bottom next to the keel.] area. Traditional construction systems took this into account by requiring longitudinal members to made heavier or to be added to these locations.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 95)
• The sea also produces severe local loads when a yacht is being driven to windward. These result from slamming into seas, and are concentrated on the lee side of the forepart of the vessel. Typically, this loading reaches a maximum halfway between the stem and mast. In this area, the hull surface is rather flat, and the lack of strong curvature makes the skin itself less able to resist the force it encounters. Here, structural stiffening is needed in combination with a thicker skin. Here, too, transverse and/or longitudinal framing both heavier and more closely spaced that elsewhere in the hull is required.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 97)
• Impact loads resulting from contact with floating objects, including other vessels, and contact with immovable objects such as rocks and piers all require strength in the hull skin itself as distinct from the combination of skin and framing.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 97)
• The hull must be locally strengthened to withstand concentrated loads imposed by the mast and rigging, the ballast keel, and the rudder. All these loads must be spread out over an area as large as practicable.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 98)
• A fiberglass hull laid up in a single rather than split mold avoids potential weakness along its centerline because there is no suggestion of a centerline joint.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 98)
• Rigidity of hull structure is desirable in itself, a distinct from strength, but only in association with it. A structure that is both weak and rigid invites failure…A hull that flexes very little under rigging loads will permit headsail efficiency to be maintained by limiting jibstay sag as the wind increases. This can be quite important for raising.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 101)
• Increasing beam contributes to righting moment, so it is good, up to a point. The way beam is used in combination with displacement and center of gravity is the crux of the stability question. Extremes are bad. Great beam with little displacement reduces stability range by lifting center of gravity.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 54)
• Increasing freeboard adds interior space and extends the righting-moment curve, but it also raises the center of gravity (decreasing the righting moment) and adds windage.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 54)

Ballast & Displacement

• Lowering ballast lowers the center of gravity, thereby favoring every aspect of stability. It also reduces the danger of a prolonged inverted position. It demands strong construction, and to some degree it may reduce speed because it increases the longitudinal moment of inertia so that the boat less easily conforms to a sloppy water surface. Under many conditions this reduces speed (though under some conditions it can help).  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 54)
• See image from Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 54
• Increasing displacements builds inertia against sudden heeling forces and increases stability for sail carrying power….the addition of ballast to be good medicine…too much displacement can slow a boat down, especially when reaching or running in strong winds in the high-speed range.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 54)
• …the other determinant is the amount of ballast and its location. Plainly, the more ballast that is carried below the center of gravity of the boat, and the farther below it is located, the greater will be the righting arm at various angles of heel, and the greater will be the range of positive stability. Ballast is of much interested because adjustments in the amount and position of ballast can be done after the boat is built if one wants to adjust the stability characteristics.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 73)

Capsize Information

• …although losing the mast does not affect a boat’s displacement greatly, it will remove more than one-half of her inertia moment, and as a consequence will make her a lot more susceptible to capsize than she was before this happened.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 62)

Links

• US Coast Guard Boatbuilder’s Handbook - http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boat_builders_handbook_and_regulations.aspx
• Practical Sailor - http://www.practical-sailor.com/

Brass

• That being said I really don’t understand why no one makes a bronze nipple just red brass which BTW is supposed to have less than 15% zinc and is MUCH more resistant to corrosion than yellow brass.The amount of Zinc in Brass varies from 5% to 45%, with the 60/40 or 70/30 (copper/zinc) alloys being the most common and causing Brass components made from 60/40 to be pretty good sacrificial anodes! If the Zinc content is less than 15%, the addition of 1% Tin or other alloys will make it reasonably resistant to stress-corrosion cracking and dezincification. The 60/40 (yellow brass) brass alloys are susceptible to dezincification and stress-corrosion cracking under appropriate conditions such as immersion in stagnant or slowly moving seawater.There are different types of brass but most all Home Center brass contains high amounts of zinc. Red brass is supposed to have bellow 15% zinc and is highly corrosion-resistant. Yellow brasses contain from 34 to 37% zinc and can dezinctify rather quickly. Cartridge brass contains 30-33% zinc and is slightly more corrosion resistant than yellow. Muntz metal is garbage and much of the junk ball valves coming out of China for distribution in home centers today is Muntz brass containing up to, and in some cases over, 40% zinc.The nipples at Hamilton, according to Midland Metals who is Hamilton’s supplier, are are red brass, and are 15% zinc NOT 40%! These nipples should NEVER be confused with home center Muntz metal brass nipples containing upwards of 40% zinc! Brass is not ALL created equal!! If you use brass on a boat bellow the waterline make sure it’s RED BRASS!! ( http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/home-depot-plumbing-fittings-just-bad-or-really-bad-19659.html&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNH6-7RkqIgFBg3QOW-OOFkb3RsHDQ)

Questions

+ Generate a list of all items that would be best in bronze. How will bronze and stainless steel mesh asethetically?
-> It seems that some items could or must be made of stainless steel and bronze for other things.

-> While I would like bronze for many of the things I will use, I also need to cut costs when possible. Everything I’ve seen up until this point indicates that bronze is quite more expensive and thus, I will need to use stainless steel for most things. Unless I really have some extra money at a later time, there won’t be anything in bronze except through-hulls.

• Polysulfide – Most versatile marine sealant…developed in 1940′s for the aircraft industry…two-part polysulfide continues to be used…but one-part polysulfides are as durable as the two-part, although slower to cure. Polysulfide sealants typically cure tack free in about 48 hours and reach full cure in about a week. About the only time polysulfide is not a good choice is for bedding plastic hardware and as a sealant for plastic portlights. The solvents in polysulfide will leach plasticizers from rigid thermoplastics.  (This Old Boat, p. 107)
• Polyurethane – Really an adhesive more than a sealant…when you bed an item with polyurethane sealant, you have glued the item in place. Careful using it on deck fittings and hardware as they can later be very difficult to remove. 3M 5200 is not the only polyurethane sealant available – sikaflex  (This Old Boat, p. 108)

Autopilot

• The principle reason for poor records of autopilots is that many of the cheaper models – particularly the cockpit autopilots – are not built for serious, sustained use. As the wind and waves build, the loads on an autopilot can increase exponentially. A unit that is perfectly adequate for light weekend use gets overwhelmed. Not only will the autopilot be unable to steer the boat properly, but it also will be continuously stressed to its limits, resulting in mechanical and electrical failures (destroyed linkages and gears, burned-out motors, and failed electronics components through over heating – all are common).  (Cruising Handbook, p. 85)
• At the core of the drive end of most autopilots is a small electric motor. To get the kind of force needed to steer a boat, it is geared down. The more it is geared down, the greater the force it will develop, but the slower its response time will be. From the point of view of steering a boat the problem is that as conditions worsen, steering loads increase – requiring a powerful autopilot – just when response time needs to decrease if a steady course is to be maintained.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 86)
• The only way to be sure of accurate helming from the autopilot in all sea states and conditions is to have a large, powerful, fast, and expensive system. If it cope with the rough times, it will also handle the smooth without a murmur. Ideally, the unit will incorporate a rate sensor or gyro plus compass that can identify motion that results from wave action (especially in conditions with large, following seas) and does not overcompensate. If going offshore, the bottom line is to buy a unit big enough for bad weather. Otherwise, the crew ends up hand steering the boat at precisely the time they would rather not steer at all – in fact, they may end up steering all the time if the autopilot fails altogether.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 86)
• When installing an autopilot, it is important to ensure that the electrical cables are adequately sized. Under load, many below-decks autopilots draw 20 amps or more (tiller or wheel-mounted pilots use much less energy, but with a commiserate reduction in power). Inadequate cabling results in voltage drop, loss of power, overheating, and motor burnout….Both the electronics and the drive motor need to be in a cool, dry location with a reasonable air flow.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 86)
• Autopilots consume from 50 – 150 amp-hours a day at 12 volts. At sea, this is likely to be the biggest load on a DC system….[with all systems including radio radar and SSB it could be 300 amp hours]…the load may be double what it is at anchor….This energy crunch, as much as anything else, makes a wind vane such an attractive proposition for offshore cruising – not to mention that if both an autopilot and a wind vane are fitted, the boat now has redundancy in case one fails (in practice, it will almost certainly be the autopilot).  (Cruising Handbook, p. 86 – 7)

Wind Vanes

• There is no question that the servo-pendulum type is the most effective – I would not consider any other type for offshore work…Servo-pendulum wind vanes develop a tremendous amount of power when a boat is moving at speed and, as a result, require a very sturdy mounting bracket.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 84)
• From a safety perspective, it is essential that all course adjustments can be made from within the security of the cockpit rather than having to hang over the stern.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 85)
• A wind vane must be set up so that it can be disconnected almost instantly if it becomes necessary to recover control of the wheel or tiller.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 85)
• It is also important to be able to get the oar out of the water when not in use. The oar itself needs a weak link so that if it fouls something at speed, it will fold or break away rather than rip the entire unit off the back off the boat.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 84)
• A wind vane needs to be able to control the boat in relatively light apparent winds; otherwise, it is not going to be useful much of the time when going downwind. If the boat will not balance, or has poor directional stability and wants to scoot all over the place, even the best of wind vanes will not do well.  (Cruising Handbook)
• A narrow boat or one with a relatively long keel generally performs better with a wind vane than fin keeler. As the wind pipes up and the steering loads increase, the wind vane needs the power to keep going. It should not be necessary to reef down prematurely just to east the load on the vane, which means the vane must be powerful enough for the job and the boat must be well enough balanced not to overwhelm it.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 84)
• To be most effective, wind vanes should be installed on the centerline…  (Cruising Handbook, p. 85)
• Given the relatively high cost of a wind and the fact that they are not appropriate for inshore work (if the wind shifts, you may find yourself on the beach)…For offshore passages, the primary justification for using a wind vane is that it uses no power, as opposed to the typical autopilot that consumes a considerable amount of power. Furthermore, wind vanes have a fairly good reliability record, which many autopilots do not. The farther it is intended to travel offshore, the better a wind vane looks.  (Cruising Handbook, p. 85)
• If sailing alone…it is very important to have some means, such as a tripline, of disengaging the autopilot or vane so that the boat will round up, slow down, and permit the man overboard to gain the deck. An easy means of climbing aboard is also essential.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 159)

Questions

Autopilot

+ Will I use autopilot?
-> I think due to the low fail rate of a high quality, well maintained wind vane and the price and power draw involved with an autopilot, I believe it is not necessary nor prudent for an autopilot at this time. I think just a mini one (like from Keep Turning Left videos), will work on a pinch when on inland waters, or I will hand steer.

+ How does autopilot work exactly?
-> Since I won’t be looking into the larger version, I will not research this question at this time.

Wind Vane

+  Which type of windave will I use?
->  I have been leaning towards the Aries Windave for some time due to it’s servo-pendulum gear (3/11/12).   I will continue looking into this in the near future, as I am trying to wrap up the deck configuration.

->  [Continue researching/thinking/considering....]

Product List

• Auto-pilot (small, tiller control)
• Mounting Hardware (for wind vane)
• Wind vane unit

Links

• Connect Auto Pilot to Self Steering – http://www.selfsteer.com/products/monitor/autoPilot.php

• The category of the whole exercise [weather information collection] will be greatly enhanced by weather reports received from the outside world. This information comes by radio in various ways, transmitted by stations around the world. The stations and their frequencies are listed in a government publication Worldwide Marine Weather Broadcasts….the quality of the results from a radio weather broadcast can depend on the crew’s knowledge as well as the type of radio instrument that is used.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 216)
• Professional help will pay off handsomely in all phases of radio installation, and not just in jobs where it is required by law (such as setting up of a sideband radio). From the planning stage right through post-installation calibration, an owner will be fortunate to secure the best help available.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 224)
• The two principle means of communication for boats at sea are VHF (Very High Frequency) and SSB (Single Band) radio telephones.
• Electrical noise, or “static”, is the cause of much poor performance in both Loran-C and radio reception. Such noise can come from the outside, generated by lightning or other external electrical phenomena, or it can be generated onboard the boat by various pieces of equipment – for example, motors and alternators.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• See image in Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts p. 228 for steps to limit noise
• Usually, the on-board static producers will include one or more of the following objects: pumps, alternators and their regulators, refrigerators, motors, computers, Loran-C receivers, flourescent lights, engine instruments, and loose connections.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 228)
• ….“static” and “electrical noise” are two very different things. The antenna either connects to (DC) ground in which it won’t build up static, or it floats above (with a higher voltage than) ground and so can hold onto a static charge. It can be caused by wind blowing on the antenna, snow or other factors. Electrical noise is RF pulses or their harmonics generated by equipment onboard. Such equipment may contain spark gaps (as in electric motors) or oscillators (switching power supplies) or diodes (alternators, battery isolators, triacs/dimmers) all of which can generate RF which then leaks into your receiver. This can be prevented by proper EMI shielding and RF choking on electrical lines.  (http://www.reddit.com/r/HamRadio/)

Antennas

• Good antennas are basic to obtaining proper performance from electronic equipment on boat….require occasional maintenance, can cause windage and involve appreciable expense…careful planning of the system is well worth the effort.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 226)
• Some equipment (VHF-FM, Loran-C, radar, satnav, and Omni) run on special-purpose antennas, one for each instrument. On the other hand, SSB, ham, radio and the communications receiver are all able to operate on the same HF antenna, using a switch so that one instrument is in use at a time. The classic HF antenna, are the insulated permanent backstay, the long whip….  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• …adds up to a lot of antennas, and unfortunately, a yacht – particularly a sloop or a cutter – has a limited number of locations for them. All you can do is grit your teeth and find a place for them where they will operate properly.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• The higher the rated gain of your antenna, the longer the range, and the narrower the beam. The transmission range, however, depends more on the height of your antenna than any other factor, including wattage. The higher the antenna, the greater its “line-of-sight”. The only way to legally increase the sending and receiving power of your marine radio system is to use a longer antenna with more gain.
• Gain is the ability of an antenna to amplify both outgoing and incoming signal power. It’s a function of how much the antenna focuses the energy of the signal in a horizontal direction. When gain (measured in decibels, or dB) is increased, the normally oval radiated power pattern becomes more oblong and horizontal, reaching out further toward the horizon. Increasing gain increases your signal power geometrically: a step from 0dB to 3dB will double your signal’s power, while a step from 3dB to 6dB quadruples it. Higher gain also means a more narrowly focused beam, which can cause the signal to fade in a rolling sea. The more stable your boat’s platform, the less it rolls, and the higher the gain you can effectively use.  (www.boatus.com/boattech/antennas.htm)
• Coaxial cable is specially designed to transfer your radio signal to your antenna with as little power loss as possible. Use the largest 95% shielded coax that fits to reduce signal loss between the radio and antenna. PVC-coated (not plastic) cable RG-58 and RG-8X, frequently supplied with the antenna, are fine for cable runs up to 25′. For longer runs, use low-loss cables such as RG-8 or RG-213. RG-8U is not recommended for marine applications because it is foam-filled and will collect moisture, creating loss and quickly corroding the cable inside. Keep the cable run as short as possible and avoid sharp bends, kinks, or strains to get the most from your system.  (www.boatus.com/boattech/antennas.htm)
• The ferrule is the bottom fitting on the antenna that threads into your antenna mount. A plastic or nylon ferrule is fine on small boats for light use in calm or moderate waters. If your antenna is subject to more flexing because you cruise or fish in all types of weather, you’ll need a more durable metal ferrule. Match antenna mount and ferrule materials, that is, nylon with nylon and metal with metal. For extra strength and longer life, use stainless steel mounts or chrome-plated brass with a chromed antenna. Use silicone spray regularly on both the ferrule and the mounting threads to prevent corrosion.  (www.boatus.com/boattech/antennas.htm)
• The connection between your radio and antenna is critical to your VHF system’s operation. If you must splice the cable, use proper PL-259 connectors to reduce loss. Use a silicone protectant spray or clear semiconductor heat shrink compound, and wrap them in Ancor Marine Grade – heat shrink tubing or quality vinyl electrical tape to prevent moisture intrusion, which will corrode the copper braid in the coax. Immediately seal up any nicks in the cable and antenna to keep moisture out. If you must solder, use proper soldering techniques and at least a 30-watt soldering iron and 60/40 rosin core solder. This job is not difficult, just exacting.  (www.boatus.com/boattech/antennas.htm)
• There is….no advantage to elevating antennae receiving signals from overhead satellites. To the contrary, the higher you mount a GPS antenna the less accurate the speed and directional information will be because the antenna will be whipping around due to sea conditions. GPS antennae should be as close to deck level as possible while still maintaining an unrestricted “view” of the sky.  (This Old Boat, p. 300)

Antennas – High Frequency Single Side Band (HF-SSB)

• Since the ocean is a fine ground and is right there, you would think that grounding would be easy….it is not…the reason for this is that HF currents are very particular about what they run through. Conductors that would be prefect for carrying direct current (DC) or low-frequency current (AC) may be poor for HF current. even more strangely, grounds that work for one kind of antenna tuner or coupler may not always work with another kind. A ground system may be built into the a fiberglass hull…it must be carefully designed…require substantial work.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• The HF antenna must be tuned by an antenna tuner, or coupler which is usually located where the antenna leads into the boat. Without the coupler, the set will not operate properly and good be damaged.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• Today’s automatic couplers, which sense the frequency coming from the transmitter and tune the antenna to it, can sense the frequency coming from the transmitter and tune the antenna to it, can efficiently match the multi-channel capability of the newer synthesized transmitters. A coupler can also be used on a ham radio set, although most ham operators prefer to tune manually.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• When HF antenna system is used for a communications receiver, the coupler should be left out of the circuit since it will sometimes taken the incoming signals (by itself, the receiver will not actuate the coupler). Either switch the antenna directly to the receiver while receiving transmissions, or set up a separate receiving antenna altogether using a length of wire hoisted aloft.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 227)
• An insulated backstay often doubles as the SSB or ham radio antenna. Note that on a fiberglass boat, a lower insulator is unnecessary as long as the backstay chain plate is not grounded to the boat’s grounding system. During transmission, the energized antenna can burn you, so insulate the bottom ‘ of the stay with a rubber hose  (Sailboat Electrics Simplified, p. 65)
• The connection to the stay is made…using stainless steel cable clamps. The wire is typically antenna lead-in, held clear of the stay with stand-offs…but if you elect to use coax instead, be sure only the center conductor is in contact with the stay, not hte brad. The entire connection should be protected from the weather by coating it with electricians putt (Coax Seal), then wrapping it from the bottom to top with self-amalgamating tape.  (Sailboat Electrics Simplified, p. 65)
• There is also generally little point in mounting an SSB antenna above deck level. Although ground transmissions over a short distance may benefit from additional antenna height, long-distance SSB transmissions are accomplished with sky waves. Antenna length is critical, but the height of the antenna has little effect.  (This Old Boat, p. 300)

Communications Receiver

• If two-way communication is not important or if the crew wants to receive more elaborate weather information than that provided by SSB (as well as news and music on the AM broadcast band, which is not available on SSB), a versatile type of radio called a communications receiver offers excellent service….In their best form, these HF receivers with many special features that allow them to receive both voice and code transmissions even in unfavorable conditions. Besides variety and compactness, the hallmark of these receivers is their clear reception, due first, to their tuning accuracy, and, second, to controls that allow the operator to select the bandwidth – music requires a lot of bandwidth, voice somewhat less, and code least of all…these controls include a two-position bandwidth switch labeled “music” and “news” and a mode switch labeled “normal” and “SSB” which allows fine tuning with a thumbwheel.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 218)

HAM Radio

• Another method of long-distance communicating is the amateur or ham radio. A special Federal Communications Commission license is needed to operate a ham instrument, but the effort of studying for the license may well be worth-while for an offshore sailor, since this is a very effective means of communication.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 218 )
• Ham has four big advantages:  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 218 – 9)

1. The transmitter, if desired, can be operated at a higher power than marine-band transmitters, and has at least as long a range.
2. A sailing ham can make telephone calls by “patching into” shore ham stations, thereby bypassing crowded marine telephone stations (by law, the call cannot be used for business and other specified purposes).
3. A ham installation is less expensive than marine SSB installation.
4. It is very versatile; the latest generation of ham radio transceivers can function as high-quality, general-coverage communications receivers, thereby serving many of the purposes served by the other instruments that we have already mentioned.

• Although HAM radio has been used for successful distress calls on many occasions, it should not be regarded as a substitute for a marine SSB, since nearby commercial vessels will not be carrying ham radios and the Coast Guard does not continuously monitor ham frequencies, as it does with SSB and VHF. However, by arranging radio appointments at a given time and frequency, a sailing ham operator can set up a system by which friends ashore on other vessels can follow the boat’s progress and be aware of developments, good or bad. There are also volunteer “marine nets” that operate on certain frequencies by common usage; their members are delighted to help yachtsmen.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 219)
• One limitation for cruising sailors is that a vessel generally may not operate on ham bands within the territorial waters of a country that is not her country of registry, unless she is licensed in that country. This means that, for all practical purposes, ham radio is used by sailors only on the high seas in waters of the country of registry.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 219)

High Frequency Single Side Band (HF-SSB)

• The basic deep-sea instrument for picking up weather broadcasts and communicating is the high-frequency (HF) single band radio-telephone (SSB). An SSB is expensive and may remain so due to some built-in costs: its system is complex and its frequency tolerance must be very tight. One alternative is to SSB is direction satellite communication.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 218)
• …can bend around the earth for a distance. Also very important capability of going to levels high in the atmosphere, where they are reflected back to a point far from the origin of transmission. This means that HF is good for very-long range communication. Since the atmospheric reflecting layers are generated by sunlight, the ability to communicate from one given point to another depends upon the time of day and other factors (among them, the number of sunspots and solar flares. The frequency also affects communications, and SSB instruction manuals list the range for each frequency Generally higher frequencies provide very long ranges, especially under the daytime.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 226)
• Techniques for operating SSB can be found in Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 226
• The jump to SSB is a major one – in terms of cost, installation, sophistication of circuitry and operation. With the right equipment and atmospheric conditions, the range of an SSB radio is thousands of miles…regulations require the use of VHF whenever its range is sufficient to establish communications; SSB therefore can be used only offshore or in more remote areas of the world, but for the itinerant cruiser, it could prove invaluable.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 265)
• To view a chart of the different distance capabilities of radiotelephones, see Fig. 13-12 from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 266
• Models range from 50W – 1,000W, but the largest are really intended for use only on large commercial ships. More power doesn’t necessarily mean greater range or clarity. More important is the user’s knowledge of frequencies, daily and seasonal effects and his ability to tune the set properly. With the improved solid-state circuitry available today, a typical SSB for the cruising sailor might be rated at 150W, and have the same range as the 1,000W sets.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 270)
• SSB frequencies begin with the Middle Frequency (MF) coastal bands at 2 – 3 MHz [this is actually incorrect, see wiki resource below]. From 4 – 22 MHz are known as the High Frequency (HF) or High Seas bands. High frequency transmissions result in groundwaves that huge the Earth, and are limited in range to about 150 miles, depending upon conditions and skywave propagation bounced off the ionosphere anywhere from 30 – 250 miles high. Under good conditions, you can get reception via skywaves up to 5,000 miles. There is a Skip Zone between the groundwaves and skywaves in which the SSB radio is ineffective.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 270)
• Typical frequency for the different reasons is showin in Fig. 13-21 of Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 270
• The effectiveness of SSB is very much dependent upon a good installation, and skilled technicians are required to do the job right. A ground plane must be established that may involve adding ground screens beneath berths, and tying together metal components (such as engine and tanks) inside the boat with woven copper straps. The antenna may be a whip type, or utilize the backstay or, on ketches, the triatic stay, both of which must have insulators no closer than 4’ from the mastheads on deck. An antenna coupler electronically charges the antenna’s length to match the desired frequency. The coupler, plus the radio itself, must be properly located and installed. While the time and money investment in SSB is considerable…we have received numerous stories from both ocean racers and crising folks about how SSB saved a life or expedited medical treatment.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 272)
• (To see a typical SSb installation, see Fig. 13-22 from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 272)
• SSB picks up time signals  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 272)
• More information about establishing an SSB ground plane can be found on the “Bonding & Grounding System” project page.
• Medium frequency (MF) refers to radio frequencies (RF) in the range of 300 kHz to 3 MHz. Part of this band is the medium wave (MW) AM broadcast band. The MF band is also known as the hectometer band or hectometer wave as the wavelengths range from ten down to one hectometers (1,000 to 100 m). Frequencies immediately below MF are denoted low frequency (LF), and the next higher frequencies are known as high frequency (HF)…2182 kHz is the international calling and distress frequency for SSB maritime voice communication (radiotelephony). It is analogous to Channel 16 on the marine VHF band.  Lastly, there are aeronautical and other mobile SSB bands from 2850 kHz to 3500 kHz, crossing the boundary from the MF band into the HF radio band  (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_frequency)

Very-High-Frequency Frequency Modulation (VHF-FM)

• … provides reception of weather forecasts as well as two-way communications within the relatively small range of approximately 50 miles. The VHF transceivers on the market today are quite small and inexpensive, and very capable…best type to install is the “synthesized” instrumentthat provides communication on all channels plus the weather channels that, in the United States, receive continuous National Weather Service broadcasts. This type is immune from the bothersome, costly crystal changes that were necessary with early models to provide overage of many channels.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 216)
• When installing VHF, remember that since the signals travel by line of sight, the higher the antenna is mounted, the longer is the instrument’s range. Don’t be impressed by claims for “high-gain” antennas…they do not work well when a boat is heeled.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 216)
• A VHF transceiver is quickly out of range of weather stations when a boat heads offshore, and soon after that medium frequency commercial stations become increasingly hard to pick up.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 217)
• VHF signals almost always travel in a line of sight path from the transmitting antenna to the receiving antenna. Since the earth is curved, they can only go so far before the earth gets in the way. This is why VHF-FM radio , like television, is a short-range system. The actual distance the signals can travel depends on the height of the antennas, the higher they are the longer the path can be.  (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 226)
• VHF radios are used by all types of commercial and recreational watercraft for ship-to-ship and ship-to-shore conversations. Their range is limited to line of sight, and so are used mostly for coastal cruising.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 265)
• Anyone who can operate a CB can operate a VHF. For calling the U.S. Coast Guard while cruising the coast, or talking to a fisherman or freighter passing by, its utility is unsurpassed. Fully synthesized types don’t use crystals – just dial the channel number and there you are. VHF radios are almost always mounted inside the cabin, such as above the navigation stations, or in the case of a smaller boat, under the deck or under a shelf on the bulkhead. The antenna is key to a good hook-up. Because the range of VHF is line of sight, the higher the antenna the farther the range. This means that a masthead antenna has a longer range than an antenna mounted on deck…For example, assume that the tip of a deck mounted antenna is 12’ above sea level…the distance in nautical miles is 12.1. A masthead antenna 44’ above sea level extends that range to 15.8nm – about 30% greater.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 266 – 7)
• For a chart that shows distance to object just visible on horizon, see Fig. 13-16 from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 267
• When reading about VHF radios you usually see maximum distances of 25 – 35 miles. Several reasons exist for the discrepancies between these distances and the 12 – 15 miles just mentioned. First, a maximum range of 25 – 35 miles depends on good weather conditions, as excellent antenna installation and no obstacles – such as an island – between the transmitter and receiver. Second, radio waves do tend to curve slightly around the Earth’s surface. The distance to the horizon is determined by this formula: D = 1.144 x √H (where D is distance to the horizon and H is the height of the observer above sea level). The formula is difference for VHF radios based on the knowledge of how much the wavelengths bend. The difference formulas is about 22%, and this increases our previous figures of 12.1 and 15.8 to 14.7 and 19.3.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 268)
• The key to having a VHF that works at peak efficiency and reliability is the antenna hookup…Usually, masthead antennas are 3db gain and deck-mounted antennas 6db gain. The higher the gain, the longer the antenna, and the greater the range. However, the signal also becomes flatter and this can cause receiving difficulties in rolly seas. The distance from the antenna to the radio in part determine the size of cable needed – wire that’s too thin, run over a long distance, loses power. So, for 6db gain deck mounted antennas, about 20 fet of ¼” cable is provided. it is too small, however, for the 3db gain masthead antenna, which preferably ½” RG-8/Utype coaxial cable with a polyethylene core.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 268)
• The masthead antenna should be securely mounted on the side of the mast and the bracket provided the wire enters the mast through a hole, travels down to the base where it exists the mast again and passes through the deck, through the cabin and to the set. Rubber ferrules in the spar holes prevent cable abrasion. An alternative is to run the cable entirely in the spar. The choice is essentially whether you want the connections inside, out of the weather (but where any banging against the walls will be horrendous), or outside, where if a problem occurs – and it usually occurs at the connectors – it is more readily accessible. Some weatherproofing with silicone and duct tape over the conenctors certainly helps.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 268)
• See schematic of a proper VHF installation from Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 268
• …the closer the unit to the battery, the shorter the power wires and therefore the less potential power loss. For runs up to about 12’, use #10 AWG wire with crimp lugs or eye terminals, and plstic ties to hold them in place as you run them through the boat. The power wires can be led directly to the battery or to the main switch, but not the distribution panel, as too much power will be lost through the additional circuitry of narrow-gauge wires.  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 269)
• VHF picks up the NOAA weather broadcasts  (Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat, p. 272)

Questions

+ Will I go all the way for max communication instruments?
-> It seems that having the ability to listen in and gather information is essential. I think, that, I can balance this kind of information to ensure my own safety, while also searching for the peace and solitude that can be found at sea. The question is still REALLY do I want to have that constant connection with the outside world? The truth is…the world is always going to be there in some form, and I think, that has to be accepted. I am living in the world, and I can accept to listen to what I want or don’t want. If I focused on weather, I could use it only as a “tool” and plus, I will get some more contact with people all over the world which is important!

-> The other side of this is the money. If I add up all these things and that delays what I can do in the timeline of the project, then it might make sense. However, if the money will seriously delay the final launch date, I should invest in the bare minimum with plans for extensions of the equipment over time.

->  As of 3/11/12, I have decided to start with just a VHF radio.  Eventually, I’d like to have an SSB and a HAM radio.

+ Which do I go with, SSB or HAM radio? Both?
-> HAM radio seems to have some great benefits. My worry is about having to have the license. I wouldn’t want it to be able to be cut off by government intervention, and thus, have a useless tool. I also like that SSB receives, so I can “listen”, but not have to transmit.

-> After some more research, it seems that section “HAM” shows that HAM cannot be replacement for SSB. Also, HAM radio cannot be used in other countries than your home country or, in international waters. Looks like BOTH is the answer here.

-> As of 4/3/11, I believe that SSB can be a HAM as well…I just checked out hfradio.com (a nice site with some interesting information in a forward way). They said that HAM radio is nice and would rather use it to get some radio contact, but that’s in the space of a HAM shack, not on a moving boat in bad conditions. So I kind of see the point here and I’m also very much on the side of “add it later” for this one. So, I’ll add it to a later purchase list and stop researching Ham radios for now.

Antennas

+ How many antennas will I need?

-> The following systems require their own antenna:

• Loran-C
• Radar
• VHF-FM
• Satnav.

These systems can share an HF antenna:

• SSB
• Ham
• Communications receiver (The communications receiver must have a loop outside of the normal HF circuit if it is to be used, since the HF coupler will cause interference…that or it’s own antenna)

If I used all of those (as I am currently planning, that would be a total of 5)

-> I have come back to this and now only want to use VHF-FM and SSB/Ham. That means just 2 antennas (1/11/11) – VHF-FM & SSB/Ham

+ Where will the VHF antenna be mounted?

-> On top of the mast is the best, since VHF is line of sight. The higher the better.

Antennas – High Frequency Single Side Band (HF-SSB)

+ How will I install the RF antenna with dual backstays? How will I insulate it?

-> Here’s some information on insulating the HF antenna from:

• One person says “…backstay is insulated in two places…The top approx 3′ from the mast, bottom about 6′ up. The tuner is mounted to the rudder bearing support in the lazarete…Feed line from the radio to the tuner is RG-*x, by Anchor…I used the center conductor out of some old RG-213 as the jumper from the tuner, which is really par tof the antenna, to the backstay…It runs along the pushpit and then up the backstay, held with tiewraps…As far as insulating the backstay goes, you can get away with just using a single insulation near the mast, then you can feed the chainplate from the tuner, which will feed the backstay…this makes the whole backstay RF hot, but you’re not going to grab it while the trasmitter is keys, trust me.” ( sailboat owners.com)
• Your antenna system requires two segments, with the counterpoise as important as the wire you stick up in the air (e-mail thread with Jack Tyler from WHOOSH).

-> On 4/8, I did some quick research and read how several people suggested staying away from trying to create a dual backstay antenna. Instead, just use a single backstay for the antenna. There was also a suggestion to use “Gam / McKim Split Lead Antenna” which I looked at and it looked quite promising as it wouldn’t require slicing the backstay at the top and bottom. I think in my case (as an amateur and just learning about all this stuff), purchasing a Gam backstay would be good. Plus, I read they had good customer service. I’ve added this item as something to purchase and will continue to research this item as required.

-> On 4/11 I called Marty from Rodgers Marine here in Portland regarding the Gam/McKim Split Lead Antenna” and he said that he has installed and used them and has had great results. I’ve also been doing auxiliary research and have decided that the Gam/McKim split lead Antenna is the way to go. I will mount it on the starboard backstay so that the counterpoise can run from the tuner, via the planned conduit through the sea lockers and into the cabin. Here’s the benefits of this split lead antenna (source is Gam/McKim literature):

• No cutting or swaging; full integrity of the backstay wire is preserved.
• Fully enclosed & insulated RF elements; RF shock hazards associated with conventionally insulated backstay antennas are eliminated
• No cutting, swaging, or measuring: simply press fit the Split Lead antenna over the backstay wire
• No need to remove existing swages
• Highly conductive RF elements-many times more electrically conductive than a stainless steel backstay wire
• Waterproof & electrically sound lead wire connections; no more performance losses associated with the corrosion of bare copper lead wires wrapped around exposed backstays
• RF elements completely shielded against wind, rain & salt spray
• RF elements shielded against Precipitation Static, a form of RF interference associated with squalls & thunderstorms at sea
• Coils to a diameter of approximately 26” when not in use
• Easily transferred from one backstay to another
• Tough LDPE antenna housing specifies a 2.5% carbon content to ensure maximum UV and weathering resistance
• Antenna housing measures just 1 5/16” width x 1/2” thickness; total length is 34 feet
• Cost is competitive with conventional backstay insulators, including swaging expenses

-> On 4/12 I Ed Russel from Bam/McKay gave me a call back and was very helpful. He mentioned that their antenna has been produced 5 years and they have about 600 out there all around the world. In fact, the producer of the KISS-SSB counterpoise first tested his counterpoise with the Gam/McKim split lead antenna after he saw it on a boat in the South Pacific and found it to work well (that’s cool!). Ed mentioned that there are actually 2 antennas on either side of a center core, which places the radio conductive material outside of stainless steel backstay, giving 360 coverage. I also asked Ed if he had ever heard that mounting the antenna as near to the water as possible was best and he said this isn’t something he has recommended in the past.

Communications Receiver

+ If I go with a communications receiver, do I also want to get the code recorder & decoder?
-> It would be very nice to be able to have something collect the morse code for weather readings for me for review.

-> As of 9/12/11, I have decided against an SSB. I would prefer to learn to read the weather myself, rather than rely on a system.

HAM Radio

+ Can I operate on my own band or something with HAM?
-> I have decided against adding Ham radio at this time (4/3/11). Therefore, I will not research this essentially open ended question about how HAM works exactly. I’ll come back to it at a time when I decide to add a ham radio to le boat.

High Frequency Single Side Band (HF-SSB)

+ Which SSB radio should I buy? Which tuner?
-> Here’s some quick research on the topic (3/30/11):

• he cheapest SSB radio option (and good for lots of other reasons) is a used but bench-checked and adjusted amateur (ham) radio; the typical choice is a Icom 706 (e-mail conversation with Jack Tyler from s/v WHOOSH)
• One person on sailboat owners.com also suggested the ICOM 706 and they used a SGC 237 Tuner

-> On 4/3/11 I read that a IC-706MKIIG is very compact @ 167 (W) x 58 (H) x 200 (D) mm

-> On 4/11/11 I called Marty from Rodgers Marine (here in Portland) and he said that a marine SSB is just a modulation of HAM radio. A marine SSB radio is designed to operate on just the marine waves, HAM is designed to operate on all others. HAM radio has lots of wires and dials (to screw it up!), but marine radio is more for non-technical people to select channel. Frequency stability is higher (w/in 20hz of designated frequency) with marine radio and the Icom 706 is a HAM rig, the marine rig they make is M802.

-> As of 9/12/11, I’ve decided not to go with an SSB. The reason is simplicity and to keep costs down. It’s funny to look back now, 5 months later, and see how my opinions have shifted quite a bit. Simplicity, cost and learning to live without is my new mantra. If I really want an SSB at a later date, the research I’ve done will serve me well. The big thing is that I was going to install some 1″+ conduit for the antenna, which would be hidden below the insulation. If I want to add this at a later date, it might be a task after all the lockers and so on are installed, but I’m sure I can figure it out if it’s something I really want. Especially considering how the SSB antenna is fairly flexible in terms of installation.

+ What type of connections will I make to my SSB (e.g. modem)?
-> As of 3/30/11 I’ve read about adding a TNC (mentioned below in the “benefits” question). Jack Tyler (owner of s/v SWOOSH) also mentioned the following during an e-mail conversation: you can get digital quality fax products, NOAA wind/wave and text f’casts and also your email, all without cost, by getting a ham license and purchasing a Pactor modem. This last item costs almost as much as the radio but you will never be sorry you made that investment after dueling with weather systems a fair bit ” I’ll have to keep researching this.

-> Eric said he will use a pactor modem. That’s the most common one at this time – but it may become cheaper soon enough to have broadband off boats. Having now heard this from 2 people, I believe this is the thing to use and have added it to my purchase list and don’t have any other things to add to this SSB.

+ What other benefits are there from SSB?
-> On 3/23/11 I read an article (http://www.svsarah.com/Whoosh/WhooshPrepMods.htm) that said you can use a Terminal Node Controller. They have a whole table of the benefits on that page (incl. the ability to send/receive e-mail, receive current weather products from the internet, receive navtex weather forecast and navigation information). Here’s what they said:

A TNC is the equivalent of a SSB ‘modem’ as it allows the digital output of your computer to be transformed into the analog signal sent – and received – by your radio. (I hasten to point out before going further that an entire book could be written on this subject)! There are experienced cruising sailors who think the $600-900 U.S. cost of the TNC can be better spent elsewhere since one of its main benefits – receiving email via the SSB radio – can be accomplished in many other ways when ashore, though not at sea. Pocketmail, Cyber Café, direct ISP connection are all examples. And to be fair, another reason some steer clear of using a TNC is that there’s a fairly steep learning curve initially, although you can rely on a vendor like HF Radio (www.hfradio.com) to help you through this phase. So…if it’s pricey, requires a later model SSB radio in order to work properly, mandates the placement and use of a laptop somewhere on the boat, and isn’t intuitively obvious to initially use, why do I have it on my ‘Best Mods’ list? Here are the ways we’ve benefited, along with some sources of information and related comments. Hopefully, I’m stating all this in normal English at the expense of using more correct technical jargon, as one problem most of us have when starting to climb the learning curve on TNC/SSB use is the language specific to this topic.

+ How will HF Antenna grounding work? If I do a SSB, how will I create a ground plane?
-> This installation require some planning, investment and work.  I cover grounding in more depth on this project page – Bonding & Grounding.

Very-High-Frequency Frequency Modulation (VHF-FM)

+ Which VHF will I buy?
-> On 3/23/11, Matt Hickey (www.tidalpool.org) suggested I use the “Standard Horizon GX2100B Matrix AIS VHF” as it can connect to AIS. He said there may be newer models that require less wires to connect to the AIS (as this model takes 2 lines from the VHF to the computer). Regardless, the VHF should have the AIS ability and I’ll have to keep thinking about which one to get exactly

-> [Continue researching/thinking/considering....]

+ Will I also want a CB for very close communications?
-> I haven’t heard of anyone doing this and therefore don’t really think that it’s really that necessary. Plus, if I really want it I can add it later.

Product List

High Frequency Single Side Band (HF-SSB)

• #__ RG-213/U wire (for radio)
• .15uf ceramic capacitor (for RF ground)
• 7.6cm (3″) wide foil ribbon (for RF ground)
• Antenna Thru-deck fitting
• Gam / McKim Split Lead Antenna (includes line from antenna to tuner) ($419)
• HF Antenna Coupler
• Icom 706 SSB
• KISS-SSB (for RF counterpoise) ($139)
• Pactor modem
• TNC (?)
• Tuner (?)

Very-High-Frequency Frequency Modulation (VHF-FM)

• .5” RG-8/Utype coaxial cable with a polyethylene core (VHF Antenna)
• #__ RG-213/U wire (radios)
• Manta-6 VHF Marine Whip Antenna
• Coax Seal (60′) (?)
• Lightening Arrestor (for radio antenna)
• PL-259 coax terminals
• Standard Horizon GX2100B Matrix AIS VHF (?)

Links

• HamRadio Sub-Reddit - http://www.reddit.com/r/hamradio
• Amateur Radio Sub-Reddit - http://www.reddit.com/r/AmateurRadio