Fuel Filtration
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Questions
+ What fuel filters to use? What micron thickness? Installation location?
-> Up until this time (4/2), I had thought that I would use a 10 micron followed by a 2 micron then the fuel filter on the engine. However, Matt Hickey was telling me how it’s good to be able to 2 filters so you can service one fuel filter while the engine is still running. He seemed to think that 2 filters wasn’t so necessary and I seem to be reading this in other locations as well. I will have to give some more thought to my exact fuel filter arrangement.
-> On 4/3 I spoke to Eric about this and he said that my idea to have a 10 micron and a 2 micron after that w/ a vacuum gauge after the 2 micron would be good, though he might allow some way to bypass one filter to allow servicing a pump while the engine was going. I gave it some more thought today and think that in most all occasions a landlubber like me can think of, just turning off the engine to repair the filter would be more than enough. Obviously, in an emergency situation a filter gets clogged and you need the engine is when this would be a down side. However, I feel like there are a lot of other things I could do to get myself out of this…such as raise sails, work quickly to change filters (though maybe this takes some time). Basically, I think this is one of those things where I’ll just do it the simple way (one straight line, no valves, 2 filters & a vacuum gauge) and then if I want to add a different set-up later, that’s definitely doable.
-> I saw a picture of a guy who does fuel-polishing and all these other niceties (so you know he’s done the research) and he has an initial 10 Micron (500 FG Filter) and then a 2 Micron (500 FG Filter). The flow comes first through the 10 micron, then through the 2 micron and finally to the engine’s fuel filter. His set-up also showed a T valve from the fuel supply line that could split off to a secondary fuel filter. While that would be nice, I suppose, if you were going to need to service the engine while it was running (not sure why else…), but I don’t think I have the room for that step. Here’s the image he posted:
-> On 10/11, I came back to this question after trying to understand which filter set-up would be best. I think previously, I had thought that it was a good idea to have a 10 micron, then 2 micron, then engine fuel filter installed. What I now realize is that while this would be ideal, it’s not necessarily the norm. From the Plastic Classic Forum, there’s a great response from Tim which reads:
A 2 micron element would be too fine for a primary filter. You will use these cartridges more rapidly, since they are catching everything–coarse and fine–in your fuel supply. These cartridges are not inexpensive, and while good filtration is worth any price, it makes more sense to arrange your system so that you catch first the coarser particles, and then use a second filter to do the final filtration of anything that remains….I think an ideal fuel setup would be to have fuel first enter a “day tank” through a 25 micron (coarse) filter. From there, the fuel, already partly strained, would pass through a 10 micron (medium) primary filter, and then onto the engine-mounted 2 micron (fine) secondary filter. Obviously this is more complex and not practical for a small boat, but I think this would be an excellent way to handle fuel if space, inclination, and budget allowed. ( source )
Another poster confirmed their set-up of having a 10, then a 2 micron, engine mounted filter wrote:
I have a racor as my ‘primary’ (initial filter) with a 2 micron filter, my secondary, mounted on engine is also a 2 micron. This is what a Volvo mechanic had recommended to me last year when I installed the Racor” ( source )
One person (whose image I’ve previously mentioned above ), actually suggested adding a secondary 2 micron filter. He wrote:
We run a 10 micron filter as our primary, a 2 micron as the secondary, and the engine-mounted Fram CP1911L(?), which I believe is a 30 micron, as our tertiary filter. Our thinking was to progressively filter the fuel and provide a quick, efficient way to inspect and replace filters before we had problems. After years of using the system, it is only the 10 micron primary that really needs changing. I have changed the 2 micron as cheap insurance, but it has not been dirty (at least visibly). The engine-mounted filter isn’t doing much work, and that was the idea since changing it is more complicated than changing the Racor 500FGs and involves bleeding the engine.
So, it seems there are certainly some very top notch installations of fuel filters, plus more standard set-ups. Since I really want to go top notch for everything (especially engine filtration), here’s what I plan to use: 500MA w/ 10 micron Filter >> Spin on Fuel Filter Vacuum Gauge >> 500 MA w/ 2 Micron Filter (both filters w/ heat reflectors). With this set-up, I have 2 filters prior to the engine filter, meaning the engine filter isn’t really doing any filtration at all. I have the vacuum gauge placed just after the main 10 micron filter (which is the filter which will require more changing) and the 2 micron filter can be changed at some kind of timed increments. There’s one issue to consider – the fact that I won’t have any way to quickly divert to a separate filter if one filter has issues. I’ve given this some thought and have considered that I will find a solution to this issue in a pinch (as mentioned above – raise the sails). Since I do have 2 filters, I could also bypass one filter by adding a longer hose in the system, though this might be tough in a pinch.
+ How/where do I install the differential/vacuum gauges?
-> Gauges show when there is a fuel supply problem. They show any problems with the fuel supply and whether your filters are plugged or not. Filters should be changed at about 75% of maximum vaccum/pressure on the gauge when tested at wide open throttle (WOT). The question is, where/how do I install them…I think you can install them in the engine room, somewhere in the fuel line, but I also think you can install them outside of the engine room so you can get an idea for the pressure quickly and easily. I like this idea, though I think that might require a remote sensor…or a long sender wire?
-> I did some more research on this (2/14) and found a good forum post that discussed all things fuel system related. Here’s some information regarding vacuum gauges ( source ):
- The standard gauge you will find is 0 to 30″. My boat runs at 0 with new filters. I usually change them when they get to 7 or 8 inches. I discovered that it was reading 15″ once but the engine was still going strong. If you could find a 0 to 20″ it might be a little better but these would be hard to find and I doubt you would see much difference. Racor has their vacuum gauge color-coded Red for Normal 0-10″, Caution 7-10″ and Danger 10-15″.
- install a vacuum gauge [between primary filter and lift pump] so you can monitor your filter’s progressive restriction, avoid unnecessary changes, and most importantly avoid untimely engine shut downs due to a clogged filter. …
I also read a Practical Sailor article (finickyfilter.pdf) and they wrote “a vacuum gauge in the fuel line. This gauge can tell you when your filters are dirty by showing how hard your lift pump is working to force the diesel fuel through the filter system. As the filter gets clogged, the pump has to work harder, increasing the vacuum in the line, which is shown on the gauge. Racor makes a gauge that is calibrated to the breaking strength of the paper element in the filter.
Here’s some further information ( source ):
By installing a vacuum gauge in your fuel system (at the outlet side of the Racor filter) visual monitoring of element condition is possible at a glance. At the first indication of decreased performance, note the dial reading or apply the ‘red line’ decal provided with most kits. This will assist in knowing when to change the filter at the next interval.
So at this point, I’ve reviewed a number of installations and notice that most of them have the pressure gauge installed between the two pumps. In fact, Calder wrote that “A vacuum gauge mounted between the primary filters and the lift pump is an excellent troubleshooting investment. A rising vacuum indicates that the filers are starting to plug” (Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual, p. 223). So at least I have some confirmation to it’s placement, however I still have a couple considerations:
- For my particular set-up, should I install two gauges installed (one after the primary filter and one after the secondary).
- Should I mount the gauge in a different location other than near the filters? I’ve seen some suggestions to mount this visible from the cockpit, however I’m not sure how important this is.
-> I wrote Ben Thomas from Beta Marine about this he basically suggested just one fuel filter just after the primary fuel filter w/ a short as hose as possible. He wrote:
One gauge will do the job, install it just upstream from the fuel inlet on the engine. You want to monitor the primary filter more than the secondary filter on the engine lock. Too many fittings/connections on fuel line means more potential trouble spots. The longer the hose to the vacuum gauge the more air you need to bleed out of it be sure you can fill that hose with fuel then attach gauge, think of it as holding your thumb on straw then pulling the straw out of liquid (a vacuum). Save your money on the second gauge and use it for other budget items.
+ Can I place plastic fuel filters in the engine room?
-> I hadn’t really thought of it before 2/14, but this website says “filter with a plastic bowl and no heat shield is illegally fitted in the engine compartments”. Does this mean I need a heat shield or since this is the first time I’ve heard about it I shouldn’t worry?
So I read a little more, and from one forum. A user said “the surveyor says we need to move the Racor out of the engine compartment according to new USCG rules (or maybe just recommendations?).” to which another mentioned “You can install the Racors in the engine compartment as long as they are the metal bowl. I am in the process of installing a dual filer setup.”. Later, someone also mentioned “I have seen comments that the Racor 500FG is not approved for engine compartments but the 500MA is – with the only difference being a metal “heat shield” on the bottom – seems like this would make little difference if there is an “engine room” fire. I understand that there is a retrofit kit to add a heat shield to the 500fg if needed.”
The answer to this is basically that I should get the filters with the metal bowl (Racor 500MA) so they are more fit for the engine room temperatures. I don’t think my engine room will be that hot, but it’s still probably a good idea (especially since the filters will be installed high in the engine compartment).
+ Do I need a particle/water separator? How/where do I install a water separator?
-> Yes, I need a particle/water separator. At this time (2/14), I haven’t done much research on water separators. Here’s some quick information I found ( source ):
- Water separators … should be mounted upstream of the fuel pump because they’re not as efficient at removing water from an emulsion …(so order is tank, separator, pump, engine)
- A cruising sailboat should have a water separator that is bigger than “recommended”, because worse than usual fuel will be encountered
I did some further researh and realized that the Racor filters I plan to use filter out water. So the answer is yes I will have a water separator and it will be built directly into the filters I plan to buy. In fact, I believe a water-level sensor is visible halfway up the clear bowl of the Racor filter.
-> I also wanted to note that the Racor filters I’m looking at buying do have a water sensor indicator allowed to be added, but at this time (2/14) I don’t think I will add one.
+ Where do I need to place the raw water strainer?
-> The strainer should be placed just above the the waterline and have a see through thing…
-> This is still something I’m trying to understand (1/28)
-> I was doing some reading online, and found that some people place them above the waterline, some below, or some right at. If it’s below the waterline, a nice bronze strainer should definitely be used. One boat had a plastic vetus installed high above the waterline in the lazarette. You could clean it easily while sailing. If you want to clean a strainer and it is below the waterline, you need to shut off the raw-water intake. Regardless, the engine has to be shut off to clean it. So…I think it depends on the space in the engine room really.
From looking at that space now, the engine will take up a fair amount of the below waterline space, and so really, the only place that is available is just above the waterline at minimum and maybe maximum of 5″ above water-line.
+ What size are the hoses for raw-water?
-> The inlet sea cock should be 1” BSP to which a 7/8”/ 22 mm hose connector can be fitted. The sea waterpump is 22 mm OD to suit the 22 mm ID hose.
+ Will I use fuel polishing?
-> As of 12/2011, I will not install a fuel polishing system. Instead, I will be sure to filter my fuel properly through the fueling process (fill through use) and be very finicky about the quality of the fuel. If at a later date I decide it’s necessary, then I can consider adding it (though that may be very difficult
+ Will I use deck-fill fuel filter?
-> Yes, however they slow fueling, and are bulky and smelly to store. After filling, remove the screens and wipe leftover fuel out of screens and inside of cylinder. When fueling, use a fuel filter such as Mr. Funnel (recommended; cheap; get Heavy Duty Inspection Filter model) or “Baja filter” (expensive). $29 West Marine WM-F8C rated better than Baja Filter ($130) by Practical Sailor ( source ). Here’s a full write-up on these types of filters: http://www.practical-sailor.com/sample/Fuelfilter.html
Research
Fuel Filters
- North Carolina Ferry System has … engines are fitted with Racor diesel filters with water separators and the normal fuel filters that are supplied by the engine manufacturer just like most recreational trawlers. Water separators are tended everyday. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- important that fuel filters be installed in the line in an accessible location, along with water/particle separators. (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 241)
- So you can monitor the filter’s efficiency, it’s a good idea to rig a pressure differential gauge or a vacuum gauge between the fuel filter and the engine. (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 241)
- Fuel filters should be so laid out that they are also readily available and accessible (From a Bare Hull, p. 154)
- Once your fuel lines are hooked up, fill your tank with a couple of gallons of fuel (just in case they leak diesel). Bleed the system starting from the top most filter and working your way down to the injectors. Th operation is simple. Loosen the bleeding screw until fuel starts flowing instead of air, then tighten it and go on to the next one. But be sure you tighten one before you ascend to the other, or you’ll be wasting time, for the bottom one will be letting air in. (From a Bare Hull, p. 321)
- …diesel engine’s fuel system[s] are machined to incredibly precise and minuscule clearances that simply to not tolerate contaminants…prevention – keeping contaminants out of the fuel – is better than a cure – removing contaminants from the fuel. (Cruising Handbook, p. 206)
- A variety of screened funnels on the market (Baja funnels are the best known) can be used to take out the worst sediments when refueling, but it often difficult to throttle down the flow from the fuel pump to the rate at which the fuel moves through the funnel (Cruising Handbook, p. 208)
- …before fuel ever reaches the engine, it should pass through a remotely mounted primary filter. The primary filter prevents the most particle contaminants from ever reaching the secondary filter, and perhaps most important, it removes moisture from the fuel. Not only will water in the fuel deprive your expensive injection pump of essential lubrication, but if a drop let of water reaches the tip of an injected, the superheated air of cylindar will instantly convert it to steam, blowing the tip off like a tiny boiler explosion. The tip plays ping-ping inside the cylinder. On boy. (This Old Boat, p. 191)
- …prefilter the fuel going into your tank….for about $30 you can buy a fuel funnel with a screen that will pass diesel but not water…sailors taking on modest amounts of fuel should filter every gallon before it goes into the tank…because it is the stuff in the tank that clogs fuel filters and stops engines. (This Old Boat, p. 192)
Fuel Polishing – Need For
- Very simple matter to measure the quantity of fuel returned to the tank. Just break into the return line to the tank and catch a known quantity of fuel in a known time and compute the flow rate. You can do this at the dock with the engine in neutral. Place a bucket under the return line and have a large zip-lock ready to catch the measured fuel. Have the engine started and increased the RPM to cruising speed. Then catch fuel in the zip-lock for a timed interval. The longer the timing interval the more accurate the results will be. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- It is generally agreed that water in the fuel tank causes all sorts of hell. The experts tell us that algae is born, lives, multiplies, and dies in the surface between the water and diesel fuel. These critters and their residue are a major source of trouble. The moral is: no water, no algae. Most of the water gets into our tanks by water condensing on the inside surface of the fuel tank and less often on the surface of the diesel fuel itself. This occurs every time the temperature of a surface is below the dew point temperature of the air to which it is exposed. Without getting too technical, more moist air will have a higher dew point temperature than less moist air and be more likely to cause condensation. It is also helpful to note that the condensation always occurs on the warm side of the surface (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- The most common means to prevent condensation in fuel tanks is to keep the tanks full. If they are full, there is no air in them so no condensation can occur. It is especially important to keep the tanks full when the boat is idle for a period of time. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- Desiccant filters in the vent lines have tremendous possibilities. If they can be fitted properly, they will keep most of the moisture in the air from entering the fuel tank, which will lower the dew point of the air to very low levels. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- It is one thing to get such dirt into a 20-gallon fuel tank and quite another to get it into a 300 or 400-gallon fuel tank on a trawler. The complete fuel turnover rate in the 20-gallon tank guarantees that the entire contents of the tank will be kept stirred up and the crud will quickly end up in our fuel filter. In the 400-gallon, on the other hand, the dirt will just settle to the bottom of the tank like the silt in the delta of a river. It will build there over time so that it can cause its worst evil at our most critical moment. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- Then there’s that black stuff that begins by discoloring the fuel filter, then discolors the fuel, then makes the fuel black and puts jelly-like stuff on the fuel filter, and then just shuts down the whole fuel system…I suspect it is the result of the solids from the original crude oil settling out and returning to their natural state. No matter what the cause, it is an ever-present, ever-continuing condition that adds to that awful mix at the bottom of our tanks. Let diesel fuel stand long enough and it will turn black. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- The common system with one secondary and one primary fuel filter tries to keep the fuel that enters the injection pump just like new and the only effect on the remaining fuel is the returned clean fuel. Once we understand that most of our engines return very little fuel to the tank it becomes obvious that this system has little or no effect on the fuel in our tank. The fuel in the tank keeps getting less and less just like new, and filter replacement intervals decrease. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- diesel fungus that was treated with a biocide. One of the most common is C. Resinae. The biocides tend to kill off the fungi or bacteria and then leave that residue behind which can plug a filter…the residue that gets on tank walls, and hides behind baffles, needs to be scrubbed clean or be given a chemical bath. I would strongly advise against the use of chains in tanks as even a small piece of dissimilar metal in the bottom of an aluminum tank can wreak havoc galvanically. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- There is, native to this planet, a life-form that thrives in diesel fuel. It’s commonly found in most tanks that aren’t really, really new. Ideally a biocide for treating diesel in a tank would kill and DISSOLVE the little critters. To my knowledge, none of them do…, so you just swap one problem for another. You have dead stuff that you must filter out, instead of live stuff that you must filter out. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- Upon inspection, when opening the top of the Racor filter, we saw there was not enough fuel in there… obviously, something went wrong along the fuel lines. Clogged, or crud from the tank, etc. A couple of days later, I cleaned up Racor as well as I could, replaced the filter which was absolutely full of junk, filled it up with new fuel. I also replaced the secondary fuel filter, cleaned the electric fuel pump. Then bled the system. My engine started again fine. However, since I have owned the boat-12 yrs. now, I have never cleaned that fuel tank… neither the PO. So I can only imagine what can be in there. I did not want to start my engine again without trying to do something about the fuel in that tank and trying to somehow clean it, if possible…Most of the water present in fuels will drop out as it is heavier than the fuel and will sink to the bottom if given time. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- Water gets into diesel fuel storage and vehicle tanks in several ways – by condensation of humid air, during transportation from refineries to service stations, by leakage through faulty fill pipes or vents and by careless handling. Water can cause injector nozzle and pump corrosion, microorganism growth and fuel filter plugging with materials resulting from the corrosion or microbial growth. Both vehicle and storage tanks should be checked frequently for water and drained or pumped out as necessary. In extreme cases, biocides may be required to control microorganism growth. In cold northern winters, ice formation in fuels containing water creates severe fuel line and filter plugging problems. Regularly removing the water is the most effective means of preventing this problem; however, small quantities of alcohol may be used on an emergency basis to prevent fuel line and filter freeze-ups. Cleanliness refers to the absence of water and particulate contamination. This characteristic is important because dirt and water can plug fuel filters in your engine and cause severe damage to your fuel injection system because of the close tolerances within fuel pumps and injectors. All diesel engine manufacturers equip their engines with fuel filters to protect the fuel delivery system. You should replace these filters according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Some manufacturers also provide filters with drain valves and recommend periodic draining of any water that may accumulate from condensation and careless handling in storage or vehicle tanks. (http://www.cleanfuelguys.com/heat.html)
- Water in tanks can freeze 20F – 30F above the temperature at which fuel-related problems begin (cloud point). Ice crystals can build up on filters, restricting flow and compromising performance. They can also restrict fuel flow in tank pumping lines…In warmer weather, the presence of water in tanks may encourage the growth of fungi or bacteria which live in the tank water bottoms and feed on the fuel. Under the power of a microscope, these bugs look like deep-sea creatures. To the naked eye, these bugs show up as slimy mats of substance that can be any color from green to black. Under ideal conditions, these bacteria can double in number in as little as four hours. When left unchecked, they can be drawn out through suction lines and plug filters. In addition, the by-products of their fuel consumption are very acidic and can cause pitting and decay in tank bottoms. Many tanks go unchecked for years, accumulating water from any number of sources. (http://www.cleanfuelguys.com/heat.html)
- I think its a good idea to be able to have easy access to available fuel i.e.: you can easily pump it out to pre fill a filter or if someone is in need of fuel. Everyone I have talked to who have had to polish their fuel have had older boats (tanks) several owners, several levels of maintenance skills and a lot of crappy fuel from somewhere. So there is a lot of build up in those olds tanks. rough conditions stir it up and your filter is shot.I would carry a screen (Baja) to filter the fuel going into the tank if in doubt. And use the simplest way you can think of to be able to polish the fuel via an independent internal system while possibly still running the engine from the same tank.You will probably have a brand new or very cleaned out fuel tank to start with so you are way ahead already. I would check out the fuel treatment stuff if fuel sits for very long. (Ben Thomas, Beta Dealer)
Fuel Polishing – Methods
- The objective is to return and/or keep the fuel just like new. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- The basic concept of the depth type filter is that the fuel passes through a lot of filter media. For example, the fuel travels from one end of a roll of paper towels to the other as it passes through a GCF F-1 fuel filter thus the depth. It is that eleven plus-inches of contact with the filter media that makes this filter so efficient. It is its huge volume, when compared to the volume of a Racor-500 or 900 that gives it such an impressive capacity.Depth type filters are not required for the diesel polishing system, but they will increase the efficiency of the system and reduce the maintenance. (http://www.trawlersandtrawlering.com/howto/captnwil.html)
- I can use the fuel polishing pump to prime the system in a matter of seconds after filter changes, and I don’t have to worry about introducing air into the system….The Walbro pump has the capacity to turn over a tank of fuel in less than an hour….Here’s our filtration/polishing system.Two Racor 500 FG’s – 10 microns to 2 microns…Old R24s – lower right – is now part of a secondary filtration circuit to allow changing 500 FG filters while underway. The switch at left controls the Walbro fuel pump for polishing….only thing I’d like to add is a vacuum gauge to take the guesswork out of filter changes. My philosophy has always been “better safe than sorry,” but I’m not eager to change out perfectly good filters (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- A dedicated polishing system with its own pickup way down in that sump to me, would be ideal…Inserting a dedicated pickup into that sump, connected to a high volume pump should clean the area where our hapless C. Resinae tends to collect, and in the long run, worth the trouble to install… LATER…If you have access and can install a fitting and pickup tube over the sump, I agree that that’s the way to go. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- How I dealt with the issue on my own vessel: #1 New tank #2 Permanently installed fuel polishing system from day one with its own supply & return tappings #3 Polishing system pick up 1/8″ from the absolute low spot in the tank #4 Polishing system runs when ever the engine runs and turns the tank over at a rate of 72 GPH #5 Polishing return is fed into a separate compartment and returned below the level of fuel to avoid foaming. #6 Racor 900 filter was used to accommodate capacity of 72GPH pump and to have more filter media. I spent only $96.00 more for this permanently installed always polishing system than the PO spend on a one time fuel polishing. The whole system cost me under $400.00….P.S. Fuel is still treated with a biocide, Startron and a cetane booster. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- strongly advised me to be very careful with any dissimilar metals finding their way into the tank. They also strongly advised against the use of any copper based alloys for fittings in direct contact with the tank, so I custom ordered all aluminum fittings. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- Pickup tubing - I have used PEX tubing before with good success. It is stiff enough yet also flexible enough and with enough feed back to feel your way along the bottom of a tank. If you cut the end at an angle you can often walk it along the bottom to the deepest corner then suck out the sump. If you need to pre-bend it a heat gun works well. (source)
- We then used a hand pump to remove fuel with large amounts of crud and water, let it settle a day, pumped again, let it settle, etc, for several days, until no more crud or water came out.Since then, we repeat this once a year, and get little or no more crud and no water. The bacteria require water, so we run all of our new fuel through a West Marine fuel filter that traps both particles and water. We try to keep our tank full to avoid any condensation. We installed a Racor filter that is much larger than that recommended for our engine, to provide extra filtering capacity. We also stopped using a biocide. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
- All water should be drained from storage tanks periodically. The frequency will depend on the ease of removal, volume of fuel throughput and tolerance of water-related problems. It is not always an easy task, but tanks should never go more than 6 months without having bottoms removed.Be sure to remove water and bottoms until the product being removed is “clear and bright”. Remember, emulsions being held stable at the bottom of the tank due to sediment or biological growth can cause problems just as bad as if you were pumping straight water (http://www.cleanfuelguys.com/heat.html)
- Disadvantages - Fuel polishing won’t hurt anything but your wallet but, as I mentioned, won’t actually clean the tank, walls etc. something folks seem to think it will do. The problem with most tanks is that the pick up tube only goes within about 1 – 1 1/2″ to the bottom so you really never pick up the living debris accumulated on the bottom of the tank. (http://www.capedory.org/board/)
Product List
- Aquabloc Replacement Elements for Turbine Series Filters – (2 – 2 & 10 Micron) ($15.50 x 2 = $32)
- Heat Deflector Kit – Model #RK15104 (2) ($68 x 2 = $136)
- Racor Fuel Filters / Water Separator – Model #500MA2 (2) ($225 x 2 = $500)
- Perko 1″ Raw-water Strainer – Model #114787, Size 6 ($320)
- Spin-on Fuel Filter Vacuum Gauge – Model #1606B ($100)
- West Marine Fuel Filter Funnel (for use prior to pumping in fuel)