Engine Compartment
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Project Logs
November 22, 2011
A few weeks ago, I installed a final piece to the bottom of the cockpit bulkhead. This piece has a hole cut in it for the prop shaft, as well as drainage at the bottom and it will serve as a way to keep the sound in the engine room. Here’s what the piece looked like after it was all installed:
The cockpit extension piece is installed. Note the PVC drains and hole cut for the prop shaft.
And here’s the basic process for installing this piece:
- Template the piece. It must fit below the cockpit bulkhead and inside the bilge. Somewhat of a “v” shape.
- Use the template to cut the piece, then trim any final areas that need it to finalize the fit. Also cut a hole for the prop shaft and drainage tubes
- Cut fiberglass tape for the new cockpit bulkhead extension
- Thicken the piece in place by thickening between the piece and the hull, then
- While the filet was still wet, I installed tabbing on both sides of the piece. First 4″, then 6″.
I decided not to use foam between the hull and this piece. My thinking is that the boat won’t flex much down in the bilge and I’ll have a very strong bond with the epoxy and fiberglass tabbing. I suppose time will tell!
2010/2011
I installed the engine mounts, settee’s and cockpit bulkheads to build the basic engine compartment. Later, I built a diesel tank in the bilge from epoxy and fiberglass. Later, I will finalize the engine compartment construction.
Questions
+ Where is the starter motor on the Beta 14? Can it be removed without cutting a bulkhead? How does my engine room access compare to the list of requirements found in the “Engine Room” research section?
-> I spoke to Stanley from Beta Marine and he informed me that the starter motor is located underneath the heat exchanger on the port side of the engine.
-> I’ve gone through Calder’s list and found that I should have good access to the parts on a Beta 14 engine. There are a couple things that might be hard to get to, but there isn’t much I can do; those things are:
- Ability to pump out the transmission oil (as the transmission is low and in the aft portion of the engine room, necessitating me to reach over the entire engine)
- Ability to check the coolant overflow bottle (as I don’t even know where it is)
- Ability to inspect and adjust the shaft seal (as it will have to be accessed from hanging down through a cockpit hatch)
+ How will top counter fit so it’s removable and won’t leak water?
-> The plan, at this time (1/23/11), is to just have a lift-off lid, using cleats on both the lift-off pieces and the inside of the sette’s (which will have to be wide enough to take insulation into account). The settee sides will be the “female” and the lift-off piece is the “male” (since it ‘inserts’ into the support cleats built permanently into the settee). It will be locked down where required and below the overhang of the top step.
The stairs will have a “slide” where the inserts will go: top stair -> middle piece -> bottom stair. There will be fiddles on the settee insides that will support the stairs when down, but also be thick enough to be used as a “toe-hold” to climb up in an pickle. Each stair piece will need a preventer to stay up as well as down, so this will require some consideration.
+ How will clearance work if part of counter above engine is epoxied in to avoid any possible exhaust leaking into this locker?
-> I’m still thinking about this as of 1/23. I think that epoxying won’t really be that much of a gain. I will can install a gasket material around it when I install the shelf, but I think that in some (probably rare cases) I will want to be able to remove this shelf so if it’s epoxied that would be impossible. Cleats + gaskets are the way to go here.
+ Mock up the engine and pretend the counter is above in a built in state.
-> I did this (weekend of 1/14-ish). It’s definitely going to be a tight fit and taught me that the whole counter above it will definitely need to be removable. I’m still not sure if it answered the question about the above engine-room locker being epoxied or not, but it gave me a good visual on things and where I might be able to mount things, where tubes could run, etc.
-> Amended! Directly after completing the above statement, I got to thinking about the above engine-room locker and figured out that epoxy would not be the best choice!
+ Will there be some kind of fiddle in front of the above engine room stowage?
-> The design at this time is to have the engine room with a locker door on it, then in front, there will be a fiddle that is sized on the fly.
+ Will there be water in the cockpit drain pipes, enough to take away engine room heat?
-> This isn’t really a question at this time (1/12/11) since I plan to move the cockpit scupper through-hulls to the transom instead of the through the hull below waterline.
Research
- If you’re looking for a regulatory or “official” guidance for clearances, there isn’t any from ABYC, USC, or CFR…In general, leave as much room as you can. Practically speaking, figure on a few inches everywhere, and only reduce it if it’s critical. Don’t allow anything to touch the engine anywhere. (http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/forum/)
- I have often seen panel insulation carved out in an area to allow clearance for a belt pulley. While I think this is too close and would prefer a minimum of 1″, the point is that there isn’t any particular information to guide how close you build your enclosure. Make sure no hoses or wires rub on anything, and remember that the engine and anything connected to it moves when in operation. (http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/forum/)
- Be sure to leave adequate clearance around your exhaust manifold and riser, as these get hotter than the other parts of the engine. Usually, the clearance isn’t as much of an issue at the aft end, but obviously you don’t want combustible material to be overly close to these parts. A few inches is commonplace. (http://www.plasticclassicforum.com/forum/)
- The engine must have tender loving care, and that means good access so that you can easily change the oil and check the oil level, the water strainer, the belt drives, the shaft packing gland, and all the other important items. If you don’t have easy access, you won’t perform even the minimum maintenance. (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 239)
- It is especially important to be able to reach a lost tool in the bilge. (Desirable and Undesirable Characteristics of Offshore Yachts, p. 239)
- A good installation will provide the engine with plenty of air space, and with a freshwater cooling system using a heat exchanger so that the engine never comes in contact with salt water.
- one commonly accepted measure of a well-installed engine is that following: it should be capable of being operated safely and efficiently on either tack at an angle of heel not less than 28 degrees for at least 2 hours. That is another way of saying that you should be able to charge batteries in a gale of wind without worrying whether the engine will overheat and burn out.
- A diesel is a simple, clean machine and its room can be kept immaculate with a little forethought. Do not try to utilize every square inch above and around the engine for storage. It is a good idea to have spare parts readily accessible, but you will have to get at every part of the engine sooner or later, so it is best to leave open space around it. If possible, leave room above the engine so that you can crawl over it and get to the stuffing box in any seas. (From a Bare Hull, p. 154)
- Access to the engine room is also critical. you may have to get in very quickly. I’ve seen companionways that dismantle into pieces which, of course, fly about with great abandon in a seaways as soon as you remove them. The best solution is a ladder that hinges up and hooks to the cabin top. (From a Bare Hull, p. 154)
- laid out that they are also readily available and accessible…should be the drop stick to check the oil in both the transmission and the engine itself (From a Bare Hull, p. 154)
- …there are some real screw-ups on the market, including boats in which…the stuffing box cannot be serviced without removing the engine from the boat…the starter motor cannot be removed without cutting up structural bulkheads….The more it is intended to cruise a boat, the more important it is to have decent access to all the service points…Specifically, access for the following tasks must be considered:
- changing all belts
- tensioning alternator belts
- draining the primary fuel-filter bowl
- changing all filters (fuel and oil)
- checking the dipstick and pumping out the engine oil
- pumping out the transmission oil (this is tough on many boats)
- bleeding the fuel system and injectors
- checking and cleaning the engine and other raw-water filters
- changing the raw-water pump impeller
- replacing zinc pencil anodes in the heat exchanger and elsewhere
- cleaning the raw-water side of the heat exchanger
- cleaning the vented loop on the raw-water injection line into the exhaust
- checking the exhaust elbow and injection nipple
- draining water from the block and heat exchanger when winterizing
- checking the coolant overflow bottle
- accessing the engine feet to set alignment
- setting valve clearances, pulling injectors and other “top-end work
- removing the starter motor
- adjusting and lubricating the engine and transmission controls
- inspecting and adjusting the shaft seal (Cruising Handbook, 209 – 10)
- Prevent chafing in the engine room
- Have a pattern of checking my engine each time I start and stop it. I randomly run my eye and hand around various spots. It is amazing how simple vibration can chafe through water hoses, fuel hoses, improper propane lines and electric wiring. (All in the Same Boat, p. 117)
You should consider some access ports on each side of the engine. I know it looks like a lot of room to work on it right now, but boy, working on the stuffing box or shifter can be a real PITA….
Submitted by: Jason on June 20, 2011 at 4:57 pm
Totally! I’m still trying to finalize the design for this, but I’d like to cut through the settee’s and the cockpit bulkhead and add hatches. The hatches would be sound proofed on the inside of the engine compartment and removed when I need access.
Submitted by: Andrew on June 21, 2011 at 10:40 am